Hi all, looking for some technical help....
i have a 54 plate s type running rough.
I have 4 fault codes as follows:
P020A
P020B
P020C
P132A


the first three I know are injector timing fault codes and I think the last is right hand turbo related. It's also flagging up 'DSC NOT AVAILABLE' and 'RESTRICTED PERFORMANCE ' on the dash. I've checked continuity and load tested injector wiring from injectors back to PCM.


Q1: Is the dash warning 'DSC NOT AVAILABLE' related to injector timing fault? Ie putting it into 'RESTRICTED PERFORMACE'
Q2: is there a crank sensor for each bank of cylinders?
Q3: has anybody else had issues like this?


if anybody could throw any light on my issues I'd be most appreciated


thanks in advance.


Johnny

 

No diesel S-Types sold into USA/Canada etc so try the UK forum.

Often you get weird codes with a battery below par so suspect it first. They start the car but annoy the computers.

DSC etc is nothing to do with engine, it's ABS. Separate module, separate set of codes, special tool to read them.

It's likely the battery...

 

Yep ...random unrelated error messages at start-up is a common symptom of a failing battery.

 

definitely worthwhile getting the battery checked for sure.

Otherwise assuming that the car is serviced well, oil change & filter, air & fuel filter been done?
Relatively cheap peace of mind.....

 

When I had the alternator rebuilt on my 2.7D the tech wasn't totally happy with the result so he dug around and discovered that it was losing a tiny bit of voltage over every crimp terminal in the battery circuit. He also said the alternator has a freewheel on it that should be a service item as they wear out. Mine had done around 80000 miles and it was stuffed as was one phase of the rectifier.
The next day I removed all the cables I could in the boot area (several are behind the right hand boot trim) and he soldered them. Since then I've had a lot less ABS Failure flashing on startup. I've also had less random "Gearbox Fault" & "Parking Brake Fault" appearing after startup.

 

132a turbo actuator if it's the electronic one

 

Hi Johnny

Assuming you are technically minded and like spanners, dirty hands etc. read on.

A quick thought is if the car is running but rough, then Camshaft and Crank sensors are probably ok as they are somewhat principle in sequence of engine ignition and running. Fault in one of those is more likely to cause the engine to not run, suddenly stop or splutter.

A possibility could be sticky ERG valves. you could remove the valves and see if there is too much carbon build up and clean them (Carb/Break cleaner) or even block them off completely. It is said that doing so greatly improves performance and I believe dose not really affect emissions. I have not done this myself but perhaps a route worth checking and blanking plates are circa £15 for the job.

I assume you have multi-metre and possibly OBD tools. You will want mini sockets (1/4") and 10mm and 8mm spanners for most stuff around the engine bay.

Re question 2) I assume you mean Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) given reference to both engine banks. There is 1 crankshaft sensor (CKS) and located on the bell housing of the flywheel and accessible from underneath the car. Unlike petrol variants, the TDV6 has only 1 CPS and its located on the outside of cylinder 4. (looking from front of car its the first cylinder on the right). The CPS is hidden really well and a bugger to get to if you need to replace it.

Method1
The workshop manual states, remove engine mount and raise it, remove EGR assembly after removing fuel filter etc.
It is simpler to use a long rod/bar and lever anti-clockwise the self-tensioning tension pulley of the aux belt, slide the belt of the power steering unit and undo the said unit. This should give enough hand room to get to the CPS 8mm retaining bolt. (A small mirror or girlie compact is useful)

Method 2 - Preferred.
You mentioned testing back to the PCM so you know the 3x 40pin sockets to the PCM are located underneath the cabin air-filter box at the rear right bulkhead side. The connectors from left to right are Grey, Brown and Black. You want the Grey (C98) one. Cut off the cable tie that bunches the cables tightly to the connector and fan out the cables to located desired wires. With a non metal backboard you can the ***** the desired cables to test the CPS and CKS sensors in situ. I assume you have the full workshop manual and electrical guide. I can send them to you but believe I got them from this site anyway.

Worth while spraying contact cleaner on the connections whilst there, just ensure they have dried off before reconnecting them.

The sensors are Hall-Effect sensor and have 3 wires (positive, negative and switch) You can test the coil of the sensor by getting a resistance reading from Pos&Neg, if no resistance or goes to infinity the coil has collapsed and sensor is dead. connection to earth and switch line you should measure oscillating 0-5v when cranking etc.

Hope this helps
Regards
Paul