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DEWALT 4-1/2" 12,000 RPM 7 Amp Angle Grinder DWE4011 Reconditioned | eBay

 

Hi All,

Apologies if I've missed them (it's a long thread), are there any photos of stock ride height with 15mm and 19" OEM rims please ...

I like the idea of the wider stance but not if it looks jacked up or the tyres appear to extend the bodywork ...

Thanx in advance ...

 

I was directed to this thread as I posted up separately about fitting 17mm adaptors. I see the GB is over so happy to place an order myself with Motorsport-Tech however on the order page is asks about stud size - I don't see this mentioned in this thread or elsewhere on the forum.

Is anyone able to tell me what it should be?

For reference I have the V8 R Coupe with 20" Blades on stock tyres.

Thanks!

 

The studs are 12mm dia. The shoulder on the lugnut is 18.5mm dia. The stud length is approximately 36.5mm. Call them to confirm. They have all the specs they need for the F-Type.

 

Check this post:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...9/#post1483987


Just use the "Contact Me" option on his page. You can tell him you want to buy spacers for a F-Type and he'll do all the rest.

 

This is what the 17mm spacers anodized black look like mounted. I don't recall anyone posting a pic of just the spacer in place.

 

If any car I have ever seen begs for adapters, yours is it. Look at that sunken look!


Hurry, run - don't walk!

 

I am working on a Benzo CL63 wide body car.

One of my big issues has been to get wheels fitted. There are simply no standard wide (11.5-12") rear wheels for Mercedes which are needed for my build to fill up the fender flares without spending $7G for some one off custom 3-piece wheels.

Then Lenny came to mind from this previous GB. I am going to have him build me some (5x112 Benz) > (5x120 BMW) adapters! This will allow me to use X6 OEM wheels which are staggered 10.5, 11.5" widths (http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-OF-FOUR-...-/201840168249) for $850!. Also the offset for MB AMG wheels are like 44, 48 and the offset for X6 wheels are 20. This, along with the width of the adapter itself will bring out my wheel to where it needs to be to give me flush fitment. This solution should save me $6k! if all goes well. And to sweeten the pot even more, I can now get rid of my oem lug bolt silliness and move to lug nuts which makes life super simple moving forward.

So happy!

Here is a before and after.

 

Installing my spacers finally and with Gyrodynes/17mm fitment I believe I don't need to grind.

Kind of felt like I was going to need to grind as I was putting on the wheel, seems like it was resistant a bit for the wheel to lay flat with the spacer but it does.

Turning the wheel I can't see any larger gap from side to side. Makes me a little nervous because a spacer and wheel expert I am not.

 

1. Buy some Plastigauge at the car parts store.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Lay a strand on the each face of the studs holding the adapter in place.
4. Install the wheel
5. Remove wheel.
6. If any of the strands have been squeezed to nothing at the circumference of the stud face, you have to grind that stud down.
This is the easiest (and most labor intensive way of doing this.
Otherwise, use a depth gauge (*** end of a sliding caliper gauge) on the studs and wheel, and do the calculations to see if there will be interference.

 

Thanks Unhinged I will try the Plastigauge. There are lots of them - I take it any size will work since if there isn't anything left I'll know.

It seems like they are clearing like others with 17mm and Gyrodynes said they do but if they were barely touching with some pressure and the spacers looks flush, can't be sure (without a test like this).

Does the plastigauge have a sticky side to hold it on the end of the bolt or just use a glue stick?

I do love the spacers. Just would like to stay safe though.

 

Yes, any size, but the thinnest might work best. The Plastigauge is a wax-like cylindrical thread, so it should stick to the surface of the stud face long enough to mount the wheel. If not, use the glue stick.

 

I won't drive it until I check it out some more. I took a piece of photo 20# paper to see if there was an obvious gap and it was inconclusive. But the spacer and the wheel are torqued to 92lbs.

The line is drawn at 1/4" mark. Wheel to hub the paper will go in almost 1/4". Wheel to spacer about 3/8". Was just curious if there was a big gag my eye couldn't see.

I would have been happy to leave this all to a pro, but when you are doing the powdercoat route you have to go the DIY path. Yes there is a lot less rust since the last pictures. Rust remover, and then rust preventive application (****).

At least I do have a portable grinder.

 

The 15 mm spacers I have on the rear have a roughly 1/4" "bevel" on the outside edge of the inner face, about 1 mm deep. At first I had the same worry as you, that something was preventing the spacers from sitting flat on the hubs, but then I took the spacers off again and discovered the bevel. A closer look and I could see that the spacers were sitting flat and tight, and I've had them on for 5 months and 5,000 km with no problems.

 

+1

 

Has anyone who's installed spacers noticed more debris kicking up at the car? And what parts are getting hit?

 

yes, absolutely. Most damage on the rockers just in front of the rear wheel.

 

I have clear plastic "spats" in this area which absorb most of the stone chip damage, but I have been unable to find out if these are standard, optional or something after-market. Anyone know?

 

I have the same and believe the previous owner put them on there as well as some other clear wrap in other places. Seems to be doing a great job, no paint chips or damage that I can see.

 

They're standard.