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Ok guys, I may be **** with my ride having previously been a dealer parts guy who turned wrench on the side.
Took my 2016MY in for the k410 canister recall, it took the dealer 2 days to perform the 16k service, k405 and k410 service. Today I examined the areas behind the seats, and found a small tear and what looks like carpet not put back behind the trim.
See pictures...
Take back or fix myself?
God only knows if the oil and cabin filter was properly replaced ...or am I ****?
I'll buck the trend; I'd just do it myself as I couldn't be bothered to waste the extra time, effort and increased blood pressure in taking it back for such a minor thing.
I'll buck the trend; I'd just do it myself as I couldn't be bothered to waste the extra time, effort and increased blood pressure in taking it back for such a minor thing.
I've done the same a number of times now. Where it is just poor work and not damaged I have sent them photos of the problem and told them that I will resolve it myself, but want it noted on my account so I can be compensated with a discount on the next service, etc.
That ripped (synthetic) leather though I would not attempt myself and would tell them to replace the trim panel. (It can be repaired, but it is quite fiddly to get it right if you have not done it before.) Yes it is not in an obvious place, but it is your car and you did not buy it in that state.
I've done the same a number of times now. Where it is just poor work and not damaged I have sent them photos of the problem and told them that I will resolve it myself, but want it noted on my account so I can be compensated with a discount on the next service, etc.
That ripped (synthetic) leather though I would not attempt myself and would tell them to replace the trim panel. (It can be repaired, but it is quite fiddly to get it right if you have not done it before.) Yes it is not in an obvious place, but it is your car and you did not buy it in that state.
Understood and I agree. Sometimes I just shake my head and move on.......but I'm not saying it's right.
K410 apparently comes with trim damage in the technician instructions. Tool marks, improperly re-installed weather stripping. I fixed the weather stripping around the trunk myself. Still haven't figured out how to fix the gap in the weather stripping inside the door. If anyone knows, help a guy out.
Getting the trunk trims behind the rubber strips is a pita in so many cars which could be easily solved if they just made the darned trims with a few mm more overlap. The lower F-Type rear trims (leather/ette side trims) are unusually awkward too because they use clips that are far too short for their mating holes so you need to locate them in with some force to ensure they are properly retained. CAD simulation is great for getting a new product to market quickly but is no substitute for hands on assembly and every design engineer should be required to hand assemble and disassemble their parts to prevent those issues making it to production.
Anyway. I'm really sorry to see they managed to mess up your service Nati. You could have done a better job, and I really hope you are loudly bringing that to the attention of their service manager (on a busy Saturday morning). You should be getting your first paid service offered for free at a minimum, and I would not drop it until the trim with the hole in was replaced. You should simultaneously pursue this though your regional Jaguar customer care.
I've attached some photos from my car of the areas you show to give an idea of how those trims should be aligned/overlapped.
Photo 2 shows the rubber seals around the rear door area where they meet the parcel shelf so you can see where the overlaps should be. The rubber piece that fits onto the front edge of the upper C-pillar trim (your final photo) might be realigned simply by massaging it around until it sits home again. I managed to pull mine out why checking how it clipped in and was able to realign it that way. That weird rubber cover piece where four other rubber pieces all meet is a pita to align properly as it only has two small clips. Gaps are normal there - it is only cosmetic and not a weather seal.
In order to get the extra door seal length so you can overlap it properly you need to pull it out and start again from the top end first, stretching and gaining the extra along the bottom edge. It should then stay put and not shrink back.
Photo 3 shows a bit that is very easily damaged during disassembly. The parcel shelf trim has an extension that the B-pillar trim clips into with a metal tang. That can break off and prevent that join from sitting back correctly. If there is any play in that join carefully check if the extension has broken off/split. If it has it needs replacing, or if the broken part is still there you can heat weld the plastic and strengthen with inserts in-situ if you have the tools/skills to do so. I still need to repair mine as shown in the photo.
I couldn't work out where your punctured trim piece was. Is that the parcel shelf where it meets the B-pillar trim (just mentioned above)? If it is then you ought to be getting a replacement parcel shelf fitted foc which negates the need to do any of these alignment fixes yet (because you may end up needing to do them again afterwards anyway).
If after all is resolved you have any squeaks or rattles over your shoulders then given how poorly they have refitted those trims I would remove the C-pillar trim panel and check for correct alignment around the metal support members that go up to the roof because you can get squeaks if they rub, and the plastic part underneath (look up from within the trunk) can move about. Some black cloth tesa tape, foam, or similar to the nearby faces solved it for me. I added a foam block where the plastic piece below that trim meets the rear bulkhead carpet trim to stop them rattling as the fixings are cantilevered and at the limit of their holding strength (Photo 1).
I recall that you have already seen some of these WSM steps, but I will attach them here just in case.
(NB you don't need to remove the headlining to resolve any of those issues, but the instructions cover removing the trim around the side quarter windows from step 9 onwards, and that weird rubber piece where all the door seals meet in step 12 which is a pita to align properly.)
Getting the trunk trims behind the rubber strips is a pita in so many cars which could be easily solved if they just made the darned trims with a few mm more overlap. The lower F-Type rear trims (leather/ette side trims) are unusually awkward too because they use clips that are far too short for their mating holes so you need to locate them in with some force to ensure they are properly retained. CAD simulation is great for getting a new product to market quickly but is no substitute for hands on assembly and every design engineer should be required to hand assemble and disassemble their parts to prevent those issues making it to production.
Anyway. I'm really sorry to see they managed to mess up your service Nati. You could have done a better job, and I really hope you are loudly bringing that to the attention of their service manager (on a busy Saturday morning). You should be getting your first paid service offered for free at a minimum, and I would not drop it until the trim with the hole in was replaced. You should simultaneously pursue this though your regional Jaguar customer care.
I've attached some photos from my car of the areas you show to give an idea of how those trims should be aligned/overlapped.
Photo 2 shows the rubber seals around the rear door area where they meet the parcel shelf so you can see where the overlaps should be. The rubber piece that fits onto the front edge of the upper C-pillar trim (your final photo) might be realigned simply by massaging it around until it sits home again. I managed to pull mine out why checking how it clipped in and was able to realign it that way. That weird rubber cover piece where four other rubber pieces all meet is a pita to align properly as it only has two small clips. Gaps are normal there - it is only cosmetic and not a weather seal.
In order to get the extra door seal length so you can overlap it properly you need to pull it out and start again from the top end first, stretching and gaining the extra along the bottom edge. It should then stay put and not shrink back.
Photo 3 shows a bit that is very easily damaged during disassembly. The parcel shelf trim has an extension that the B-pillar trim clips into with a metal tang. That can break off and prevent that join from sitting back correctly. If there is any play in that join carefully check if the extension has broken off/split. If it has it needs replacing, or if the broken part is still there you can heat weld the plastic and strengthen with inserts in-situ if you have the tools/skills to do so. I still need to repair mine as shown in the photo.
I couldn't work out where your punctured trim piece was. Is that the parcel shelf where it meets the B-pillar trim (just mentioned above)? If it is then you ought to be getting a replacement parcel shelf fitted foc which negates the need to do any of these alignment fixes yet (because you may end up needing to do them again afterwards anyway).
If after all is resolved you have any squeaks or rattles over your shoulders then given how poorly they have refitted those trims I would remove the C-pillar trim panel and check for correct alignment around the metal support members that go up to the roof because you can get squeaks if they rub, and the plastic part underneath (look up from within the trunk) can move about. Some black cloth tesa tape, foam, or similar to the nearby faces solved it for me. I added a foam block where the plastic piece below that trim meets the rear bulkhead carpet trim to stop them rattling as the fixings are cantilevered and at the limit of their holding strength (Photo 1).
I recall that you have already seen some of these WSM steps, but I will attach them here just in case.
(NB you don't need to remove the headlining to resolve any of those issues, but the instructions cover removing the trim around the side quarter windows from step 9 onwards, and that weird rubber piece where all the door seals meet in step 12 which is a pita to align properly.)
Luckily I was able to fix the trunk area just by pushing down all of the trunk weather stripping. It took me a while, but was still better than going back to the shop for another tool mark.
The leatherette hole that you saw was indeed in that little shoulder of the parcel shelf that you mentioned.
I would like to get into the C pillar trim to look for the source of some rattles; this is the project that I've been too timid (and busy) to undertake. Is it really necessary to remove the seats in order to remove the parcel shelf and C pillar trim as the instructions would seem to suggest? I guess the seatbelts are the primary issue in being able to get the parcel shelf out.
Regarding the weather seal on the door, if I were to pull that off in order to fix the gap, how exactly is it affixed? Are they glued in? I just want to make sure I'd be able to replace it if I pulled it out.
I would like to get into the C pillar trim to look for the source of some rattles; this is the project that I've been too timid (and busy) to undertake. Is it really necessary to remove the seats in order to remove the parcel shelf and C pillar trim as the instructions would seem to suggest? I guess the seatbelts are the primary issue in being able to get the parcel shelf out.
Realistically, yes the seats should be removed so you can strip the rear bulkhead carpet, but you can just remove the four bolts holding the frame to the floor and place the seats fully forward under the foot wells to gain access if there's only one of you (really you need two people to remove the seat without risking the door cards). Easier to remove the seatbelt from the seat frame but you can work around it in situ.
Taking the seats out is the easy bit in comparison to the parcel shelf.
Originally Posted by Nati
Regarding the weather seal on the door, if I were to pull that off in order to fix the gap, how exactly is it affixed? Are they glued in? I just want to make sure I'd be able to replace it if I pulled it out.
I'm not sure is you are referring to the rubber trim piece that covers the other joins, or the door seal itself?
If the former, see the attached picture. You should not need to remove that bit though.
If the latter just pull it off away from the body lip. It is flexible. Once removed insert the top end first so it is overlapped as shown in the previous photo then chase it down the opening until fully retained again.
Does anyone have the K410NAS2 procedures and or installation instructions? The dealer that messed up the panel wants me to provide pictures of the part to replace as they can't seem to locate it.
I figured I would share the installation instructions with them, and within it show which part they munged to order.
Unfortunately in their wisdom JLR made it so independents can only see field actions, TSBs, etc, for their own region so I can't view the K410 notice as it only affects US-spec vehicles. Hopefully a US TOPIx member will be able to grab a copy for you.
As to the damaged trim, to me that looks like the following piece (but from the coupe not the convertible shown).
If so that is the parcel shelf (the bit in the trunk is called the cargo cover).
Which part it is depends on your seats and VIN.
T2R10291PVJ, Jet, R performance seat, To VIN K15902
T2R15873PVJ, Jet, R performance seat, From VIN K15903, To VIN K47319
T2R10291PVJ, Jet, performance seat, To VIN K15902
T2R15873PVJ, Jet, performance seat, From VIN K15903, To VIN K47319
T2R2435PVJ, Jet, sport seat, To VIN K15902
T2R15872PVJ, Jet, sport seat, From VIN K15903, To VIN K47319
If later than K47319 then I would need to query it as my EPC doesn't list those. Your dealer should be able to find the part from any one of those above though.
Note to refit trim clips C2D3422 x2 and T2R2247 x2 should be replaced and not reused.
They need to follow the workshop manual steps to the letter to remove and refit that trim as it is quite involved. They will have access to that.
They also need to refit the centre console side trims to get them behind the carpet in your photos. (I know why they didn't - they either refitted the seats first or didn't bother thinking they could just wing it with them adjusted forward and found that the side trims are virtually impossible to refit once the seats are in. As they appear to be inexperienced at working on the F-Type interior, that is why they should be following the WSM steps to the letter.)
Fantastic!! Thank you so much for your time and research! I have an account with Topix but didn't pay the necessary fee to get access. I will cross reference this info with my shop manual, I would assume that this information will make it clear to the dealer that I am not just a schmo...
03-16-2017, 09:30 PM
K410 Service damage
