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I have had Jags for 35 years. Just bought a 2012 XJL without service records. Decided to change the oil just in case it hadn’t been done recently. Choice #1 was a local non-dealer ($250 quote), #2 dealer ($375 quote) or #3 under the shade tree as I have done for 50+ years. On-line research (including the Jag forum) made it sound like a daunting task.
First issue was the oil itself and the contradictory information about what type to use. Turns out that since the original engineering between Jaguar and Castrol, the over-the-counter blends are now available without going to the dealership. Just make sure the can specifies the minimum WSS-M2C925A requirements. Castrol Edge with or without Titanium meets this spec. This is a 100% synthetic oil 5-20 viscosity. I found the oil at Wal-Mart for $7.98 a quart. Research also indicated a need to 6.5 quarts for an oil and filter change. Note- I ended up with about 7.25 qts after a test drive and an electronic oil level check.
Next issue was the oil filter. Again, some contradictory information regarding the type of filter. The 2012, 5.0 Naturally Aspirated engine is a cartridge type not a spin on as some web sites suggest. I found a Fram #CH10992 on-line for $28. Both Auto-zone and O’Reilly have the Fram for about $40. It is also suggested to replace the oil drain plug gasket ring. It is a special size and style. I was unable to find the gasket by itself. The plug and gasket Jaguar part number is AJ88461 at about $15. (Not available locally in my area except directly from the dealership)
Next issue was whether or not you should do the oil change yourself or have a certified service center or dealer do it as not to conflict with the Jaguar warranty. I personally believe that if you keep all receipts and conduct the oil and filter change within the guidelines of reasonable methodology, your warranty would not be impacted. However, this may be a personal choice. In my case, the factory warranty was no longer valid.
Preparation for any job is important. This may be very basic and redundant for most, but here it is anyway. Tools needed; 10mm deep well socket and T-30 Torx bit driver for the under-engine pan, Oil filter wrench (not the normal spin-off type size for American cars. You need a 90mm with 15 flats or a spanner type), 13mm socket or closed end wrench for the drain plug, jacks, jack stands, oil drain pan, wheel safety blocks, rags, and patience.
Safety is number one. Never just use jacks. Always supplement with multiple jack stands. If only raising the front of the car, place two wheel blocks behind the rear tires. Give yourself enough height to get under the car with the ability to remove the large under-engine pan.
First remove the upper motor cover. This plastic cover is held in place with some rubber grommets. Just gently pull it up from the front and then pull it forward. Next remove the 10mm hex head screws and nuts (11 total) and the 2 Torx screws from the under-engine pan. Slide the pan out or your way. Note-several info threads talk about warming the engine to operating temperature and then waiting 10 minutes before draining the oil. Not sure about the reasoning behind this. I don’t particularly like working with hot oil. I understand the 10- minute wait to let the oil drain into the pan, but if you are starting with a cold motor the oil should already be drained down. Also in the old days when we were using heavy oil, it wouldn’t drain well until warm. But with 5-20 oil, even cold, it drains with no issues. Remove the oil sump drain plug bolt. Retain the gasket. Inspect it for damage and replace if necessary. Before replacing the sump bolt, proceed to remove the oil filter.
The filter is located under the upper motor, center cover. Even once the oil is drained, the filter housing is still wet but the oil won’t run out all over. I still placed rags around the filter case for any drip protection. Unscrew the top plastic filter case section with the filter wrench. Remove the filter cartridge and dispose of according to your local regulations. I then used some clean towels to remove remaining oil from the bottom of the cartridge case. There is a large “O” ring on the top portion of the filter case which should be replaced and usually comes with the new filter. I then used some synthetic grease on the “O” ring to help seat it and enable easier removal next time. Install the new filter in the upper section of the case and then seat it into the bottom portion of the case. Hand tighten the upper portion until well seated. Then use the wrench to snug it down. Remember this is a plastic part and will not take high torque. Now go back to the drain plug and replace it in the sump pan. The torque should be about 20 ft lbs.
Now pour in the new oil. Start with the recommended 6.5 quarts. Replace the oil-add cap and start the engine. Check for leaks around the oil drain plug and the filter case. If leaks are found immediate repair is required. Conduct a test drive to get to operating temperature. Check again for leaks. If none, replace the upper motor cover and then the under-engine-pan. Conduct an electronic oil level check. Add additional oil as necessary to get to the full level.
Overall I spent under $100 for the oil and filter change. Considering the change should last 15K miles, it really isn’t much more than the old non-synthetic motors. I found removing and replacing the under-engine-pan the most inconvenient part of the entire process. The entire change took about one hour. While I was under the car I did a thorough check for leaks, suspension bushing wear, and a brake pad wear inspection (which required removing the wheels.)
Steven, if you want to save yourself from having to remove that under tray, you need to get yourself and oil vacuum pump. When you removed the oil cap, you should have noticed a small metal tube sticking up in that opening. You can attach the pump to that tube and you can suck out the oil vice having to climb under the vehicle. Then you don't need to replace the oil plug either. Sure the oil vacuum pump is going to set you back about $100, but for the time saved and not having to replace the oil plug, you are going to make that money back in no time flat.
I have had Jags for 35 years. Just bought a 2012 XJL without service records. Decided to change the oil just in case it hadn’t been done recently. Choice #1 was a local non-dealer ($250 quote), #2 dealer ($375 quote) or #3 under the shade tree as I have done for 50+ years. On-line research (including the Jag forum) made it sound like a daunting task.
First issue was the oil itself and the contradictory information about what type to use. Turns out that since the original engineering between Jaguar and Castrol, the over-the-counter blends are now available without going to the dealership. Just make sure the can specifies the minimum WSS-M2C925A requirements. Castrol Edge with or without Titanium meets this spec. This is a 100% synthetic oil 5-20 viscosity. I found the oil at Wal-Mart for $7.98 a quart. Research also indicated a need to 6.5 quarts for an oil and filter change. Note- I ended up with about 7.25 qts after a test drive and an electronic oil level check.
Next issue was the oil filter. Again, some contradictory information regarding the type of filter. The 2012, 5.0 Naturally Aspirated engine is a cartridge type not a spin on as some web sites suggest. I found a Fram #CH10992 on-line for $28. Both Auto-zone and O’Reilly have the Fram for about $40. It is also suggested to replace the oil drain plug gasket ring. It is a special size and style. I was unable to find the gasket by itself. The plug and gasket Jaguar part number is AJ88461 at about $15. (Not available locally in my area except directly from the dealership)
Next issue was whether or not you should do the oil change yourself or have a certified service center or dealer do it as not to conflict with the Jaguar warranty. I personally believe that if you keep all receipts and conduct the oil and filter change within the guidelines of reasonable methodology, your warranty would not be impacted. However, this may be a personal choice. In my case, the factory warranty was no longer valid.
Preparation for any job is important. This may be very basic and redundant for most, but here it is anyway. Tools needed; 10mm deep well socket and T-30 Torx bit driver for the under-engine pan, Oil filter wrench (not the normal spin-off type size for American cars. You need a 90mm with 15 flats or a spanner type), 13mm socket or closed end wrench for the drain plug, jacks, jack stands, oil drain pan, wheel safety blocks, rags, and patience.
Safety is number one. Never just use jacks. Always supplement with multiple jack stands. If only raising the front of the car, place two wheel blocks behind the rear tires. Give yourself enough height to get under the car with the ability to remove the large under-engine pan.
First remove the upper motor cover. This plastic cover is held in place with some rubber grommets. Just gently pull it up from the front and then pull it forward. Next remove the 10mm hex head screws and nuts (11 total) and the 2 Torx screws from the under-engine pan. Slide the pan out or your way. Note-several info threads talk about warming the engine to operating temperature and then waiting 10 minutes before draining the oil. Not sure about the reasoning behind this. I don’t particularly like working with hot oil. I understand the 10- minute wait to let the oil drain into the pan, but if you are starting with a cold motor the oil should already be drained down. Also in the old days when we were using heavy oil, it wouldn’t drain well until warm. But with 5-20 oil, even cold, it drains with no issues. Remove the oil sump drain plug bolt. Retain the gasket. Inspect it for damage and replace if necessary. Before replacing the sump bolt, proceed to remove the oil filter.
The filter is located under the upper motor, center cover. Even once the oil is drained, the filter housing is still wet but the oil won’t run out all over. I still placed rags around the filter case for any drip protection. Unscrew the top plastic filter case section with the filter wrench. Remove the filter cartridge and dispose of according to your local regulations. I then used some clean towels to remove remaining oil from the bottom of the cartridge case. There is a large “O” ring on the top portion of the filter case which should be replaced and usually comes with the new filter. I then used some synthetic grease on the “O” ring to help seat it and enable easier removal next time. Install the new filter in the upper section of the case and then seat it into the bottom portion of the case. Hand tighten the upper portion until well seated. Then use the wrench to snug it down. Remember this is a plastic part and will not take high torque. Now go back to the drain plug and replace it in the sump pan. The torque should be about 20 ft lbs.
Now pour in the new oil. Start with the recommended 6.5 quarts. Replace the oil-add cap and start the engine. Check for leaks around the oil drain plug and the filter case. If leaks are found immediate repair is required. Conduct a test drive to get to operating temperature. Check again for leaks. If none, replace the upper motor cover and then the under-engine-pan. Conduct an electronic oil level check. Add additional oil as necessary to get to the full level.
Overall I spent under $100 for the oil and filter change. Considering the change should last 15K miles, it really isn’t much more than the old non-synthetic motors. I found removing and replacing the under-engine-pan the most inconvenient part of the entire process. The entire change took about one hour. While I was under the car I did a thorough check for leaks, suspension bushing wear, and a brake pad wear inspection (which required removing the wheels.)
My "Non-Local Dealer" charges me $120 with military discount. After watching all that is involved in the shop, I decided this is a good deal.
However, I didn't know about this vacuum method. Still, I don't have the reset tool, so probably will stick with dealer....beginning to develop relationship with them...very important.
I fully agree with ya there. Compared to the amount of info there was out there for my previous ride (2004 XJR), there is very little out there on these. Never give up though. The car is worth the effort.
Not to put a damper on the DIYers, but here's my take on the deal......
My former '12 XJ-L took 7.25 quarts of oil. At the "Wal-Mart Price" of $8/quart, that "Stevenwhitney" posted, plus the $28 he quoted for a filter, you have $64 in oil, and $28 for the filter, a grand total of $92 +tax. In other words, close to $100. Plus, you have to add in your time doing the job, as well as the gas used going back and forth to Wal-Mart.
My dealer charges $135 +tax, including the reset of the oil change light. Is it worth saving the $40 to dink around with it?
(and believe me, I've been doing my own oil changes since 1968.....)
Plus you don't have the responsibility of getting the used oil to a recycler. My dealer is more expensive, but they do a complete inspection and top up all fluids. So @ $200 it is not cheep but then neither am I. And I get great service and am not nickle and dimed for little things they do for me.
I hate to open a "can of worms", but I also think if you look at the Walmart oil shelf, you will not see a SINGLE bottle that meets the Jag spec of M2C-925. Many meet M2C-930, and M2C-945, but not the 925. This leaves you in the position of either going th the Dealer for purchase, or finding something else that does. I have found oil that meets it at $38.00 per liter, and a quality filter for $25.00. It still leaves you at $100.00 for an oil change. My local dealer charges nearly twice for an oil change for than I can do it for on my own. Don't forget that you also need an evacuation pump to do it ($100.00 one time purchase) and a meter to reset the light. The question I guess is if you enjoy doing that or not. As a "wrench" myself, I would rather do it myself. I know it will take half an hour, but it is really not that bad, plus for me, it is a once per year thing.
Add to Enosgi the dealer, who, has experience with the XJ will be looking for anything that may be in need of following up on.
Sorry, I did have to laugh uncontrollably when I read that. Dealers are the worse of all options when it comes to competence levels.
Mine was in my local dealer in the week for a safety recall, and they couldn't even find the car for almost 90mins when I went to collect it. I mean, its big, its black, how the hell can they lose it.
I would DIY even if it cost me more than a dealer would charge, because I then know its done, and done correctly.
From what I can find out the Jaguar/Ford spec was WSS-M2C925A. The factory fill was Castrol Edge Pro OE-maybe?
Now I have had the same problem of finding this spec oil anywhere. Further it looks like WSS-M2C925A has been replaced by WSS-2C945A. But I can't find that anywhere in writing and the use of the 925A spec seems to disappeared being replaced with the 945A spec?
If the 945A spec will be OK then there are several oils to choose from including my favorite Mobil 1. But the Castrol is UV dyed and the other oils are not so it can be detected if you use anything beside Castrol.
Jaguar got into a bit of trouble with trying to make the oil a warranty problem in France. See the attachment.
Walmart sells Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 5W-20 for about $29/5 Qt.
To your point about dealers, I will say I have seen some good, and I have seen some NOT so good. The dealer I PURCHASED my vehicle from proved to be anything BUT thorough in the inspection of a Jaguar Certified car. After seeing the brakes the "well respected" dealer let roll out the doors, I am less than impressed. I did my own, and GUARANTEE did it better. The dealer closer to my home, however, I WOULD trust. Point is, you cannot say that all Jaguar dealers are cut from the same cloth. I do much of my own work because I KNOW the degree of MY mechanical acuity, and I trust myself more than others for many things. Everyone has their own situation, though.
As for the oil, when researching myself some months ago, I heard several SAY that 945 superseded 925, but NOTHING substantiated it. Otherwise, why would a limited number of makers still be making a 925 spec oil? Additionally, I recall seeing that 945 spec oil is available in mineral blends, yet 925 is ONLY spec'd in full synthetic? The ONLY thing I found (aside from the dealer), suggested in another post, is a German brand called Liqui Moly 2259 Special Tec AA SAE 5W-20, available on Amazon at $33.00 for a 5 liter jug. If the OIL meets the spec, it is fine to use. If it does not, it may be fine, but then again, it may not be. It is a pretty costly gamble
I think it's safe to say that all Jaguar dealers are not created equal. My particular dealership has an excellent reputation in regards to service. I've owned two Jaguars and I have no complaints whatsoever about any service work they've ever done for me. It has always been done right the first time and, if not covered by warranty, at a reasonable cost. I trust them completely. Another dealer approximately the same distance from me has a reputation for better pricing in their sales department but lousy service after the sale. I suppose I could buy there to save a little money and then go to the other dealer for service, but I think the building of a relationship with your dealer is important. To that end, I'm willing to take a bit of a hit at the time of purchase if the aftercare is superior. If/when I buy another one, I'll head right on back to the same place... just as I do when I need service.
12-22-2016, 11:42 AM
OIL CHANGE 2012 XJ 5.0 Do-It-Yourself
