Created heater delete with patches and panel adhesive. It's like I'm building model cars again.


Sanded car with 80, then 180. Finished up today with acid etching primer.


Tomorrow doors, boot lid, and bonnet will get the same treatment. Patch repair will have to wait until the car is back home.

 

A little progress made, the frame is (almost) sitting on the floor. I'm slowly cutting my way into the tub, using the new frame as a guide. Spare tire compartment gone, center rails gone. Next will be the rear center spring supports, and a couple of cage nuts, and the frame should sit flat on the floor.
Had to redesign the front rotisserie mounting to allow cuts to be made to drop the new chassis in place.

 

Wow! Exciting stuff. I just wish I could find time to make some progress on mine.

 

For as little as 20 minutes a day, you too can...

 

Was looking at pic 4 wondering what on earth! until I realised, the chassis is the correct way but the car is upside down.


My assumption is that's the easiest way to get the main rails flush with the car to start the cutting process

 

Stoney,
It has taken some time to get use to doing anything to the tub while it is upside down. You have to ask yourself all the time, "is this the right side or the left side of the car?" Worse, is trying to explain the processes without pictures.
Your observation & reasoning is correct. First run prior to flipping the frame is to cut away enough to find its correct position side to side and end for end. Next it is off with the suspension, flip the frame and make the final cuts.


Todays progress, neighbor calls it and himself the demolition/demolition expert: Rear spring mounts, trailing arms mounts, upper shock mounts, front rails up to the "Y" on the back side of the front crossmeber - GONE!

 

Please see my updated ad of MK2 parts for sale - Mid West section.


New lower price - stuff has to go!

 

The Art Morrison Enterprises (no affiliation) frame now touches the floor. ~60 man hours to drop it to flush with the floor. Up down, up down, up down, with the chain falls, I can not count the number. Last cuts were for a drop of 1 5/8" to finally touch the floor pan. Meeting with the welder on the next steps. I want to cut out the inside of the rear wheel wells before the actual welding takes place.

 

Great pics. That chassis looks bullet proof! As do the rear suspension links. I assume from the close cutting that you intend to weld the chassis into the car?

 

Al,
Welding ending up being the choice: original was welded, did not want to make mounts, would have likely raised car, had no intentions to take it back apart ( although that is what I do best - take things apart). Going to wish I had channeled it at least 1/2", maybe on the next one. I didn't say that, did I?

 

Rear housing picture would not open in the last sequence of pictures. housing is on a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift. (no affiliation0

 

Sanded bare frame, coated with acid etching primer, finished with "Chassis Saver" aluminum. Contrast in colors shows off the fit a little better.


Finish will need to be wire wheeled off in areas to be welded.

Cutting out the inner rear wheels wells and the rest of the rear floor next, maybe complete by the end of this week.

 

All said and done, I've put the third set of braces in the rear wheel wells. Had I put them there in the first place, the trunk floor, inner rear wheel wells and the rear arch for the differential could have been taken out in one piece.


It looks like I was the one carving the prime rib at some function in a hotel. Cutting three pieces for each person in in line, as if to say that's all you will get in this trip through the line.


Slowly getting closer to marring the tub and the frame.

 

My boss always said start with the "big idea" first.


The Art Morrison Enterprises frame is tacked in and the floor of tub is screwed flush to the top of the frame rail under the cabin.


I can't count the number of times we pulled the frame to the ceiling and set it back in the car. Rechecking the end for end and side for side position.


Looking back on the pictures, the frame arrived July 1. Seventy nine days later it's ready for the welder to make it back into a unibody on Monday.

 

Great photos. Very exciting project.

 

Clyde, I figured I had a lock on "the most spot welds removed," but you've put me to shame. I can see how much effort was involved locating that frame - you're doing beautiful work. These tubs were pretty stiff considering their 50+ year old design, and your frame looks massive compared to the stock rails. Like Primaz I don't quite understand the 4-link rear vs IRS but I suspect this isn't meant to be a daily cruiser. Tell us the truth - how much horsepower is going into this beast?

 

Doug says "I had a lock on "the most spot welds removed," but you've put me to shame."



Doug,
Thanks for the kind comments.

I did the test drilling on the main frame removal. Then I turned the task over to my neighbor who calls himself "the demolition expert".

Six hours of measurement of the car to meet the engineer needs for CAD input, and another month of phone calls to my Art Morrison salesman, Chris Bondy produced a frame that fits like a glove. I was not brave enough to channel the frame a half inch into the car, which would have achieved the stock ground clearance at the rockers.

Ah the horsepower and the torque, nothing like it! I've purchased an aluminum DART/Ford Windsor. Max cubic inches is 463. Target is 700+ flywheel HP on pump gas with a redline of 7500 RPM. The car will be set up for street, auto cross, road race time trials, and the drags. A compromise for each, but an adrenalin rush with the punch of the pedal! Agonizing over a 6 speed TCI automatic and the 6 speed Tremec stick.

More carving to do. I'm hoping the only modifications are to the top inside corners to the footwell's. Worst case, might be, we move the steering column one inch (1") outboard. Just my luck, no room for golf clubs in the boot/trunk.


I looked at the suspension I pulled off of the car. Thoughts drifted from following your modifications front and rear, your front mods with the stock rear axle and coil spring and shock modification, your front mods and a rear four link. Then I pushed my search out to chassis builders. The idea of a complete package pushed me over the top - NEW everything. The chassis is complete rotor to rotor with a master cylinder.

Rear suspension is a three link with a watts link, sway bar, and coil overs. It will easily handle 1000 HP. The three link offered me a suspension that fit inside the stock rear wings/fenders. Art Morrison has a independent unit that handles 1400 HP but was too wide for the car.

 

One picture per post. Mobile site locks up my phone if I try to post the second.

Recap: now using the rotisserie as a lift. Front steering and suspension bolted in place. Two pice rotors and aluminum hub installed (Wilwood)

 

Wilwood.

 

215/70/15 from my 77 bolted in place. Looks lie the big tires will fit, without problems.