1961 Mk2 3.8 Restoration
#101
The Uni-Sync isn't difficult to use, it's not all that accurate, but it's accurate enough.
The middle wheel is adjusted to let air into the engine so it won't stall (opened) and closed enough to get a reading with the floating red indicator in the plastic tube.
Placing the device as close to the centre to the throat of each carb is important as well.
One has to remove the air intake aluminum housing to expose each carb separately.
With this removed, you have to hook up the carb return spring to keep the butterfly valves shut tight.
Balancing and idle adjustment is achieved by the large slot screw to the right top of each carburetor.
It has to be done with the engine fully warmed up at it's slowest idle stated in the manual, you will get the best and most accurate reading at a slow idle.
Keep in mind that the balanced carbs are unaffected when driving, as soon as you step on the gas pedal, you by-pass theses idle/balancing screws when the main butterfly valves are opened.
The main butterfly valves are shut tight when at idle, the car receives it's air flow through these large adjusting screws at the side.
Keep in mind that the valve clearance, ignition timing and fuel mixture all has to be set up as best as possible, balancing the carbs is the last step in the game.
If any one of these things are not set quite right, the engine may not idle smooth _ this of course makes it almost impossible to read the Uni-Sync device as the red indicator doesn't stay still enough to get a reading.
The middle wheel is adjusted to let air into the engine so it won't stall (opened) and closed enough to get a reading with the floating red indicator in the plastic tube.
Placing the device as close to the centre to the throat of each carb is important as well.
One has to remove the air intake aluminum housing to expose each carb separately.
With this removed, you have to hook up the carb return spring to keep the butterfly valves shut tight.
Balancing and idle adjustment is achieved by the large slot screw to the right top of each carburetor.
It has to be done with the engine fully warmed up at it's slowest idle stated in the manual, you will get the best and most accurate reading at a slow idle.
Keep in mind that the balanced carbs are unaffected when driving, as soon as you step on the gas pedal, you by-pass theses idle/balancing screws when the main butterfly valves are opened.
The main butterfly valves are shut tight when at idle, the car receives it's air flow through these large adjusting screws at the side.
Keep in mind that the valve clearance, ignition timing and fuel mixture all has to be set up as best as possible, balancing the carbs is the last step in the game.
If any one of these things are not set quite right, the engine may not idle smooth _ this of course makes it almost impossible to read the Uni-Sync device as the red indicator doesn't stay still enough to get a reading.
Last edited by JeffR1; 02-20-2017 at 01:58 PM.
#102
"One has to remove the air intake aluminum housing to expose each carb separately".
I was wondering about how one would adjust the carbs without removing that piece so, that explains it. Gene doesn't have that problem because he has the individual air filters on each carb- so that is easier.
I was wondering about how one would adjust the carbs without removing that piece so, that explains it. Gene doesn't have that problem because he has the individual air filters on each carb- so that is easier.
#103
Congrats on getting it running! The smoke could be anything- once it has warmed up and burned off all the oil and moisture from having sat for so long- can you identify a source? Does it smell like oil or like vaporized anti-freeze?
I never had much luck with a Unisys either. My goal is to get it running, and then take it to a carb expert to balance, etc.
I never had much luck with a Unisys either. My goal is to get it running, and then take it to a carb expert to balance, etc.
Earlier today I talked briefly with a mechanic familiar with British autos. We'll get together in the next week or two when the weather moderates a bit. Until then I have other parts of the project to work on
Thank you for your encouragement!
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csbush (02-20-2017)
#104
"One has to remove the air intake aluminum housing to expose each carb separately".
I was wondering about how one would adjust the carbs without removing that piece so, that explains it. Gene doesn't have that problem because he has the individual air filters on each carb- so that is easier.
I was wondering about how one would adjust the carbs without removing that piece so, that explains it. Gene doesn't have that problem because he has the individual air filters on each carb- so that is easier.
The dial indicator simply measures how high the pistons are, when the dial numbers are the same, the carbs are balanced.
Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums - View Single Post - SU carburetor balancing kits
#105
Keep in mind that the valve clearance, ignition timing and fuel mixture all has to be set up as best as possible, balancing the carbs is the last step in the game.
If any one of these things are not set quite right, the engine may not idle smooth _ this of course makes it almost impossible to read the Uni-Sync device as the red indicator doesn't stay still enough to get a reading.
#106
The fumes smelled like burnt gasoline fumes. No noxious like oil, not sweet like antifreeze. I'm sure my air/fuel mixture is very rich. That might be part of it.
#107
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#108
That's a cool video!
And nice neighbourhood, looks like Nanaimo here on Vancouver Island, I say that because I saw a "School Zone Ends" sign.
I checked your personal info page to see if it says your specific location other then Pac NW and you're only 26, I wish I was 26 again _ it sucks getting old !
And nice neighbourhood, looks like Nanaimo here on Vancouver Island, I say that because I saw a "School Zone Ends" sign.
I checked your personal info page to see if it says your specific location other then Pac NW and you're only 26, I wish I was 26 again _ it sucks getting old !
#109
That's a cool video!
And nice neighbourhood, looks like Nanaimo here on Vancouver Island, I say that because I saw a "School Zone Ends" sign.
I checked your personal info page to see if it says your specific location other then Pac NW and you're only 26, I wish I was 26 again _ it sucks getting old !
And nice neighbourhood, looks like Nanaimo here on Vancouver Island, I say that because I saw a "School Zone Ends" sign.
I checked your personal info page to see if it says your specific location other then Pac NW and you're only 26, I wish I was 26 again _ it sucks getting old !
We live in the Portland, OR area. Besides the weather I think a lot of Portlanders want to emulate British Columbia. The culture, accent and weather are similar IME. Vancouver (city) is gorgeous! The Wife and I celebrated our 4th Anniversary there a few years ago. We'll have to go to Victoria at some point.
Cheers!
#110
#111
Quite welcome sir! I hope to post more "soon".
Yes, well...
This one was only marginally-driveable when we got it. Soon after we bought it the after-market fuel pump that was in it failed. And the car has benefited from a cleaner, not so rusty fuel tank.
Lots to do yet. Not on the order of magnitude as your project but it will definitely keep me out of the bars for a while. All the best!
Yes, well...
This one was only marginally-driveable when we got it. Soon after we bought it the after-market fuel pump that was in it failed. And the car has benefited from a cleaner, not so rusty fuel tank.
Lots to do yet. Not on the order of magnitude as your project but it will definitely keep me out of the bars for a while. All the best!
#112
Clyde, this is why my "birthday" is in February '91. I was on the USS Missouri during the time-frame in this report. Every day since has been a blessing and I'm still trying to find a way to thank the crew of HMS Gloucester:
Battleships Pulled Off The Biggest Ruse Of Operation Desert Storm 25 Years Ago
Battleships Pulled Off The Biggest Ruse Of Operation Desert Storm 25 Years Ago
#113
#114
#115
#117
God willing we'll meet on one of those "road tests" one of these days
#118
#119
So I have been fiddling with the locks, replacing the barrels. So far I've replaced the Glove-box and ignition. I have noticed that "somebody" before me was just using whatever they had on hand to fasten stuff onto this car. For instance the boot(trunk) lid latch has 4 holes for bolts - either the factory or a previous owner used 2 hex-head bolts, one slot-head bolt and a wood screw to fasten the latch to the body. The passenger-side front door used a screw-head and a 3/8 hex head. Driver side used a 3/8 hex head a 5/16 hex head. It's a lot easier to remove philips-head bolts from the door handles so that's what I replaced those with - all philips-head, all same length, all correct thread. Call me OCD if you like but this is just so much easier.
I rented a storage unit and stored my back seat and passenger seat there. Now I can dig up the passenger side and see what's under the "carpeting".
Oh... poot
It gets worse. This pieces of straw show where the floor has rusted through:
I rented a storage unit and stored my back seat and passenger seat there. Now I can dig up the passenger side and see what's under the "carpeting".
Oh... poot
It gets worse. This pieces of straw show where the floor has rusted through:
Last edited by gene61jag; 03-14-2017 at 05:57 PM.
#120
Smart man. Do what ya gotta do then get on with your life. I was in the Reserves for a while. It was alright for me but I think for a lot of people it's seems like a waste.