MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Chrome body finishers

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Old 03-13-2017, 03:30 PM
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Default Chrome body finishers

Hi, thinking of freshening the paint on my v8 Daimler, have never removed or replaced the chrome strips so would appreciate views on whether the chrome strips will survive being removed/replaced without having to purchase new. Also the gutter chrome strips appear to have been removed in the past I.e. prior to my ownership in 1980 and there is a flat on the bend (hockey stick shape) so looks like they have to be tapped back into position but would prefer not to guess, so any help would be much appreciated.
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Den.
 
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Old 03-13-2017, 03:41 PM
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In my (very) limited experience, the trim can be carefully pried off without damaging them. You have to be careful as there are differences in how they are attached. The small piece on the B pillar is attached with a nut that has to be removed from the inside. It is very unlikely that most of the connectors will be reusable, but SNG Barratt sells a kit with the new ones. Keep track of what type come off of where if possible.
 
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Old 03-13-2017, 03:55 PM
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Thanks great tip on b pillar strip, could have been annoying!
 
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Old 03-16-2017, 08:29 AM
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Hello Den. +1 for advice given on removal . . . but, across a range of Mk1, Mk2s and S Type, I was always far more nervous about refitting over brand new paintwork. Obviously, any scratches would be highly visible (ask me how I know!). I remember learning several valuable lessons . . .
  1. wait, wait, wait . . . allow several weeks after the paint job is finished to allow the entire depth of new paint to fully harden;
  2. always tape sponge to that part of the finisher beyond start point, especially the sharp far end, and peel as you proceed;
  3. the refit over and around the curve of the rear quarter window is aided by a roll of the wrist that is even harder to describe than to do;
  4. even after several cars, and benefiting from great hands on supervision, I found that rear quarter window area best left to the pros.
I don't say this to put you off. Far from it. But seek guidance from a pro. My mentor had a supply of s/h chrome strips and had me practice and practice on my car BEFORE he undertook the new paint job. Even so, I managed a scratch . . . and was annoyed it then needed a "make good".

Best wishes,

Ken
 
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Old 03-16-2017, 05:51 PM
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Replacing all the chrome trim is well possible! But, the various retaining clips can be degraded so beware! When removing or replacing the trims, be careful to avoid paint damage.
 
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Old 03-22-2017, 09:51 PM
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Thank you each for the above replies, sounds like I need to engage another pair of hands to stop the strips waggling around, will certainly let the paint cure, which won't be a problem as our weather is sure to climb to a giddy 20 c during the summer. just had a look at a spare gutter strip and yes I can now see the challenge with the wrist action required, great engineering but can see from my spare that they are easily deformed, perhaps a very careful masking job for this area would be prudent.
 
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Old 03-23-2017, 05:46 AM
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The cant rail trims have a shape that allows them to grip on the edge of the drain channel, One positions the trim at the front first so as to get the tight bend on the channel, then one "rolls" the trim down and round the bottom of the channel.They are secured at the B-post with a clip. I think some bitumastic glue was also used at the factory. It's a long time ago that I fitted mine, (1980s).

The waist line trims are held on with horrible little clips that have sharp tangs on them that can cut you. These are secured by pop-rivets. Rusting is common around these clips, so if repainting, best to remove them, de-rust, repaint, and fit new ones. On my car, I managed to get circular plated clips that I put in in place of the horrible ones. You have to be careful when using the pop rivet gun as sometimes when the tang breaks, the gun recoils against your nice new paintwork ! So use a bit of masking tape either side. I put a bit of Dum-Dum putty on each clip so the rivet hole was fully sealed, then after fitting the trims, pressed some more into the top edge to stop water getting in. However, running some waxoyl-type stuff in there does the same job,

The short trims on the side of the scuttle are held in with rather long pop rivets because there is lead loading at that location on top of the scuttle. The bonnet trims are held on with bendable clips that can be reused, although one might be able to buy new.
 

Last edited by Fraser Mitchell; 03-23-2017 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 03-24-2017, 02:34 PM
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Thank you Fraser, started to remove trim and have found the nasty clips will certainly replace with the round button type, very lucky with zero rust under the trim, clearly very well painted last time (not by me), again very clear advice thank you very much.
 
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Old 03-25-2017, 09:13 AM
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I think SNG Barratt now sell plastic clips to replace the 'orrible little steel ones.
 

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