So the float on the passenger side of the car was submerging. Gas was flowing out from the overflow hose. ( See pics)

Pulled out the brass float and cleaned it off with wet sand paper.
Hairline crack. ( See pic )

Local auto store says a new float can be here next day for only $109.
So I thought I'd experiment a little first ...

There are a variety of sealants, but the gasoline becomes an issue.
Called JB Weld tech support.
Was told that it is resistant to gas, so I smeared a bit all around and dunked it in a water container for a week.
It floated the whole time! No submersion of fluid into the inner float core!

The problem: the weld peeled off with just a few sands when I tried to make it a bit smoother for the housing in the SUD.
( Pic forthcoming )

So I brought the float to another autostore that has a greater variety of auto lotions and potions.
Counter man was a former autoshop teacher and said to solder the crack.
Said to :

A) Warm the area with a soldergun tip.
B) Brush on flux.
C) Drip on solder into hairline crack.
D) Sand smooth

He also said that solder is the method used to connect the two halves on the float, and occasionally a drop of solder would get inside.
That's why one hears a rattle inside these floats from time to time.

Preamble point: Yes, I know I can buy a new float. But my goal is to learn by doing.
It's too easy to just buy "stuff" nowadays and NOT learn to fix anything.
The ability to do things and fix things is becoming a lost art save those who are experts in their respective fields.
So I'm trying, even though its a bit more difficult, frustrating, and time consuming.
( Just had this discussion last week with another car buff who owns 50 plus cars and fixes them all..... learn something from him with every conversation and repair )

More updates and pics to come

 

Why not just buy a new one, they're not all that expensive.

Brass Float Kit T2 - SU Carburetters

 

Ultimately, I will buy a new one. I've checked it out.
I really want to expand my hands-on-skills and abilities to do things.
That's why I'm trying alternate methods.

 

And thanks for the link.
What's the gasket/ring for?
I don't see that anywhere on my SUD carbs...

 

I applaud your efforts. Certainly try to fix your own before you get more. I got a pair from xks unlimited which I think I paid under $30 each.

 

Solder is the way forward, regular electrical solder will do the trick, clean with wire wool, get some active flux if the electrical solder wont take, tin the area (apply some flux and a little solder and wipe off excess this will leave a coat of solder) the area should now be tinned (solder film with no gaps / holes) now apply the solder to the crack, if you want to file it back flat you will need to very slightly tap a dent along the crack for the solder to sit in, otherwise you will simply sand it off later !

Give it a go, by the way the gasket ring is to replace the one when you take off the float bowl.

Good luck

 

While I advised buying a new one, I do recognise the wonderful feeling one gets by fixing something on one's own ! You do have to wonder why a float in a perfectly standard carburettor fuel chamber can get sufficiently stressed to crack !

 

that's the OLD JB Weld, have you tried the new one?

JB bought an epoxy product made in Florida and is now selling it under its name, best epoxy I ever tried, it dissapeared from the auto parts store shelves for a while, then it reappears under the JB Weld brand. I know it is the Florida-made product because of its funny smell while you mix it.

I recently found it at Walmart, but not in the automotive section, instead they have it in the Hardware section, which doesn't make any sense. An employee at Walmart agreed. Works with metal, wood, plastics. Dries a somewhat clear yellow color.

 

One thing to be careful with is that you need to ensure that the repaired (or even a new float) are the same weight as the original, otherwise the fuel level will be different.

I had an issue with overfueling on a 1966 S-Type, it turned out that the new floats which I had fitted (from Burlen Fuel Systems) were slightly to heavy, I replaced with two second hand originals and the problem went away. A quick check on some scales proved that there was quite a weight difference.

 

Jose, when did JB Weld change? The one that I have is very dark gray (almost black) when mixed. I have had the dark gray formula fail a couple of times but I blamed the part flexing.

I feel 64Daimler's pain. I had a float that got a crack too. It had a solder repair so someone had already tried to it once. I ended up getting a polypropylene float. Best of luck

 

Gene,

I think they introduced their newly "acquired" product recently; By the way, the old JB Weld sucked big time, I never used it, very dissapointing.

they call the new one "Plastic bonder" but if you read the carton, it says "metals" too, so I tried it and it works wonderful. Really holds up to brute force. Example: I screwed up on a gluing repair and tried to separate the two parts a day later, forget it, I could not get them separated, I literally had to saw them apart haha!

NOTE: I've also been having a horrible time with PERMATEX adhesives, they are terrible, do not waste your money on them. They simply do not hold up.

 

Well the float fix has been suspended for the moment. I put on solder on the crack and sanded it smooth. Then I dunked in water over night and shook the float the next morning. Water was inside. I realized that there were more hairline cracks on the float than I could see.

I'll still try other repair methods just for a learning experience, but right now the goal is to get a working float to float.
( FYI: JB Weld worked the best but the skin came off after a two days dunked in water. )

So I went out and bought a new float for $20.

Put it into the bowl, and it floated to the top when the gas filled the bowl. I checked the two-prong "armature" that closes the inlet valve and the pin atop: all work fine.

But now the car won't start!

I put starter spray into the air intake, and the engine starts and then dies. It won't idle.

So I wonder:

A) Is the connection from the float bowl into the carb clogged?
B) Bad gas?
C) Pressure from the gas line insufficient?
( I doubt "C" as both bowls are full of gas )

Any thoughts?

 

So by sheer chance and fate, I came across the JD Weld PLASTIC Bonder Jose noted in Walmart ( $5.11 ). The Universe was nudging me to continue the float experiment.

After a quick sanding with wet sandpaper, I mixed the two compounds and lapped a smear all around the circumference with the rounded end of a tooth floss pick.
( This JB Packaging also now has a rotating cap that is very helpful... keeps the compunds neat and work area clean. )

This stuff went on very liquidy and easily into all the noted crackes and along the coupling ridge. It all smoothed out quite nicely. I'll sand it down a bit later and dunk in water next 48 hours to determine if the sealer has sealed all intrusions into the float interior. Then I'll submerge again in gasoline to determine if the Plastic Bond Sealer doesn't disintegrate in gasoline.

"The which I do I understand."

 

yes, that's the one, I almost want to bet it will hold, it's like "Definitive" when it cures.

the bad news: it will be tough to sand down, I recently splattered it on a crack in a wood table's leg, and the darned thing was beating me, it was very slow if not difficult to sand it flat.

 

Here's a pic of the float after it was covered.... everything was evenly spread by its own viscosity. Rather amazing really, as that was what I wanted to do.

And thanks, Jose, for the picture and tale. I saw the stuff by sheer chance at Walmart. I would not have ever given the stuff a second glance if you had not noted what you have done with it. Will do some more experimenting with it in another post in other applications.

 

.

 

you're welcome! the funny thing is that JB Weld did not develop this product, it was developed by a company with a Miami Florida address, with a name like "New Tech Adhesives". JB Weld must have purchased the formula or the company, the old "big fish eat little fish" corporate thing.

I would place the float in a jar full of fuel for a few days, to see if it attacks or dissolves the adhesive. Keep me posted.

 

EXACTLY!

" That which I experience, I understand." - Lao Tsu ( I think. maybe Confucius )

Reason: most people, especially of current generations, know how to BUY things. Knowing how to FIX and REPAIR things is becoming a lost art/skill.

I vaguely remember someone mentioning a Heinlein story where a society collapses because everyone know how to USE machines, no one knows how to maintain or repair the machines. After the last machine goes kaput, it's over.

I don't want to be like that. Try stuff... even though it may not get results, I'm better for the effort.

 

well? did it hold? or not?

 

Still getting results...
Thus far, it did hold.

I've had it submerged for about three days in water
( See pics )
Not sure if Super Chunky, chunky, or smooth variables may affect results

I will note that I did take the float out today and shook it to see if any liquid seeped inside.
I heard something, but it didn't sound like water sloshing about.
More of a ping that was bouncing around...
Maybe a bit of solder from the interior dislodged... maybe not
( There was a storm that knocked it off the table, so it is possible )
And as was noted, it was already dinged up a lot.

So it's just floating in H2O at the moment.
Will post more float updates as it happens.