:
Whether 'tis Nobler in the mind to chance
The Slings and Arrows of tank cleaner,
Or to take box sockets, and Wrench against a Sea of troubles to remove a gas tank,
And by opposing end to wash: to drop, to wash, to dry,
No more uncertainty; and by a sleep, to say it is done.

The Heart-ache and busted knuckles, and the thousand bit of extra work
That greased and bloddy Flesh is heir to?
'Tis a consummation of decision of what to do.

Devoutly to be wished to avoid future fuel line problems or extra work.
To lift and turn the wrench, or to sleep,
To sleep and perchance to Dream of a clean fuel line and clean gas tank;
aye, there's the rub,

So here's the question: Do I drop the gas tank, clean, dry, and put back? Or do I just put in cleaner, hot water, and dry?

The situation is this 1964 Daimler had gas sitting in the tank and lines for at least six years. The fuel had turned beat red. I cleaned out the glass filling pot and took a sample to the local British Motor Supply (BMS) shop when I brought in a fuel float that was sticking. ( The red fuel was spouting out the overflow. Will post the pics when I find them ...)

The BMS guy said the red fuel would clog the pistons and valves if I ran it through the engine and result in an engine seizing. The seizing means the whole engine would then need to be rebuilt. Advised to clean out the lines.

So this is what I did. Please comment and critic.

1) I disconnected the feed line going into the gas tank and put the line into a bottle of 1905 White Vinegar ( 1905 was a good year for vinegar!).

2) I disconnected the gas line going into the glass gas holding vial inside the engine compartment and put the line into an empty bottle.

3) I turned on the ignition and let the electric gas pump pull the vinegar through the gas lines to clean out any residual bad gas that was in the gas lines.

4) It flowed clear.
( No vinegar was ever in the glass vial or into the carburetor. )

Gas Tank - Should I Stay or Drop?

I am concerned as to any more of the beet red gas in the gas tank.I unscrewed the gas cap and put a stick into the gas tank. Nothing. I was still concerned, so I took off the round shield and float inside trunk ( English conversion: bonnet???).

I looked inside the tank. It was dry. But I did see some film remnants of the beet red gas. So I bought a bottle of Por15 Tank Cleaner.

I poured in half of the bottle and boiling hot water, per directions. Let it set and then dry. Was told to let the mixture set and evaporate.

This is where I am at this time.

Next put some gas into tank and run through lines into a container, just as I have set up now without connection to carburetor or engine.

When I see clean gas come through, all is good. Reconnect gas lines and monitor the glass holding vial for any contaminants.
But before proceeding, I request you thoughts an opinions.

And since I have the float out of the tank, before it goes back inside the tank, what can I do to it to ensure good/better working order?

To Drop the gas tank, or not to drop the gas tank?
Is what has been done already well enough?

Or is something rotten in the state of Denmark?
That is the question!

TIA

One last question: Is this the correct position of the electronic fuel pump?
( Please see picture ). Or do I need to swing it 180* into place? It looks like it's out of position....

 

Welcome to the forum 1964Daimler,

I've moved this second thread of yours from General Tech Help to MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler forum. This is the place for posts about your model.

Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

Why not fit a new gas tank ? Much less effort albeit it costs money you may not have.

Martin Robey

 

I found someone that sand-blasted the rust out of mine _ which of course meant that it had to be removed.
There is a drain on the bottom, if you can get the nut off, to remove all of the old gas.
And the small nut fits into the larger filter that can also be removed.
Once this is removed, you can get a small flash light in there for rust inspection. But I see that the sender has been removed, shine a small light in there _ how does it look ?


The tank is easy to remove with a floor jack and a block of wood _ the jack is used to take the weight and too lower the tank when the nuts are removed _ it's not heavy.

The biggest challenge are the exhaust pipes, they are in the way.
You will need a muffler shop to remove/attach them back on.

One more thing, I've never heard of vinegar to remove old gas, just use fresh gas and discard it after words.

 

Out is better, new is best.
Fooled around with treatments on my '77. Electrolysis, then vinegar. Hot steam, acid would have worked. Wasted a month of my time. Ended up new.
IMHO, well not so humble, working on it "in" almost guarantees failure. Woulda, shouda, coulda.

 

Update:

I looked into the gas tank after using the tank cleaner. There wasn't any of that red gunk.

So I put the float back in, screwed it into place, and reconnected the wires, both green and yellow.

I'll run some gas through the disconnected gas pump before reconnecting the line back into the tank. Once that fuel line is clean, I'll then reconnect the gas pump intake line to the tank and put in a gallon or two of gas.

I'll flush it out via the pump, thru the gas lines, and into the engine compartment and into a gas can. I'll inspect the gas and see what comes out visually.

If the gas is clear and clean, is it good to go into the engine for ignition and fire up run?

 

You should see a small fuel filter in the engine compartment. If that is there and not blocked, and doesn't get blocked you're OK. Filtration has to be really fine with fuel injected systems due to the very fine clearances, but is not quite so critical with carburettor systems.

 

just dropped my tank. Drain plug had to be chiseled off (use anti seize). Dirt setting on seam pitted through on right side and fuel screen is gone. Sump in drain is full of crap.
I am taking mine to the radiator shop to be boiled out and repaired (if possible) I haven't removed the sender yet, hoping for the best.
Good luck with yours

 

Radiator shop can repair and it is hidden. They will also seal it. Sender was frozen, freed up and with in specs. Lucky I guess....