Wow! Shipwrights disease is rampant! I started out to convert the ratty front suspension to PAS rack and pinion. That's stalled at the moment because I hate the wiring offered from the supplier. I'll work through that.

At the same time, I had to fix the rear brakes where the exhaust pipe has fallen and after a few minutes of driving started lock the brakes on. Simple enough, eh?

But, as the car is laid up I might as well get Madera Concepts to do the wood right? That's coming out just now.

While the rear suspension is dropped I'm going to replace the AC hoses with modern barrier hose so as to use 134A.

I'm good at managing projects, love the juggling to keep all moving forward BUT;

I am not gonna consider paint, less considerate of replacing the ratty leather and will only address the crumbly rubber as required.

Yeah, he says.....

 

There is a lot involved to restore these Jags but it is worth it in the end. Madera Concepts does very impressive woodwork. The wood really is a hidden big expense but to me is one of the key aspects that makes these cars unique and cool. I know what you mean I went into upholstery with the intent of just painting the seats and putting new door panels/carpets but to do it right and last I went ahead and splurged and had all new leather on all seats and it was worth it.


Steve we will be shaking my car down next week but I think it will take the next few weeks right before my first schedule weekend drive on 9/20 to get her tuned enough for the drive to Yosemite. The last minor bits seem to take forever! but I am sure it will be worth all the effort and hope you will be at that stage soon...

 

WooHoo!



Or maybe "are you freakin nuts?"


I just committed to an interior kit from BAS AND have all the wood ready to package for Madera to do the reveneer. Looks like I'm gonna have one hell of a pretty nonrunner. Oh, also ordered the SNG Barratt rubber kit.

The rear diff assembly is on the ground with new rubbers on order as well as a front diff seal. It truly appears to be the first time it's been out so lots of archeology ahead.

Again, I swear! (hope) I'll not get sucked into paint as I want to drive this again in my lifetime!

 

Steve,


It's only money, now you cannot take it with you so my suggestion is splurge like I did on the seats and paint it the color you want

 

Come on Steve,
It is just a little paint! Well there is the blasting, the zinc phosphate, the primer, the bodywork, and etc. :-)

Lin

 

Having placed the order I'm now fretting on the headliner replacement. This is about the only job that frightens me. I'll likely be doing it alone.

Anybody seen any good postings or guides for this important project?

Hmmm, better order a case of upholstery adhesive.....

 

I would recommend that you get an upholsterer or someone experienced to install the head liner.
I ordered mine as kit from XK's at the time _ it was sewn and ready to go in.
The rear windshield has to come out so the headliner can be ticked in around the rubber _ so with that said a new rear window seal is a good idea.
A new one will be pliable and clean, the old one will be oxidized stiff and dirty.


When the old headliner is removed, most times there will be a thin film of rust on the underside of the car.
You will want to deal with some how, so the rust doesn't flake off and come in contact with the mew headliner.


If you get the headliner form a proper supplier it will be wool English broad cloth as it should be. I shouldn't have to say not to use "tacky" velour.
There's nothing worse then finding an old British car with modern materials in it.


Oh... don't forget the mohair welting around the doors...


************************************************** **********


EDIT
Sorry, I forgot that you're talking about a 3.8S _ totally different animal.
I was going to delete this post, but one of the mods will have to do it.

 

Two clocks, one from the S and one from the E leaving for Mike Eck's tomorrow for his crystal upgrade. I've never seen a working auto clock in my life so this will be a new experience....


In addition, I was waiting until the rear suspension was out to start specifying the AC hose replacement so I gotta get on that this weekend. I'm thinking to pull out the old hose (though I hate that approach) to measure it before I order the Oh So Precious barrier hose. I'll make a point of puttting each halfassed hose clamp back into place so I'll at least be near original.

I wanted to replace the six foot runs of hose with hard tubing but it seems no one on the Internet comprehends that concept. Oh well, we just gotta keep moving forward. Like a shark?

Steve

 

Clocks away, Wood away, deposit sent for interior, gettin' busy here....

 

Steve,
Not half as busy as your gonna be when you get all that stuff back!
Lin

 

I also agree that for interior work to use a professional. In my area I found a great shop, Super Auto Upholstery and they like many other good quality shops often do a surprising amount of jobs where the owner tried to do the interior via some kit only to find that the kits never fit right and a lot of the work is beyond most people. I think interior is like the wood, you can do it yourself but it often looks like a DYI job and not as often looks as good a shops like you are using.

 

More intrigue daily...

I just dropped out the two long AC hoses so as to order modern barrier hose replacment. The evaporator in the boot seems to be made up of TWO seperate evaporators with T's and hoses interconnecting. Also got a good pic of a pristine Coolaire serial number plate. If anyone cares...

But in the process I found the capillary tube temp control cut in half about midway so who knows what effect that had on the AC.

I'm about to order a laser etched duplicate of the foil Coolaire control plate stuck onto the center console. I'm 50-50 about putting it back in the same spot. With a nice plate it could work but the crap mylar decal does not!

 

I see the factory service manual has no instructions regarding headlining removal/replacement.

Is this another way of them saying "Do not try this at home"

 

16' of Dash 6 and Dash 10 hose BTW. I'll buy twenty feet of the -6 for connecting the condenser and drier. Fittings list is to follow so someone else will have information before they start. Kind of like Lin is doing with the lamps

 

OK, movin' along. AC hoses on order all the other bits mentioned above progressing so now I turn my attention to this monster, greasy, complex hulk of the rear.

I've done two of these before, long complex projects in their own right. This time I don't have the lifting, cleaning and support structures I've had before to do this heavy work.

Is there a trick to remove just the rear brakes for rebuild and leave the rest intact?

I mean really, how many years do I have left? The factory stuff is easily up to my remaining lifespan? Again, this is a repair, not a restoration (I keep saying, I keep saying)

 

Never mind....I knew the answer all along. The bottom plate is off as we speak.

 

GRRRRR....taking more things apart to move forward! Trying to replace the condenser from the front isn't working so it looks like the rad has to come out. Damn it, I want to move forward, not ever backwards!

My back and hair are full of antifreeze at the moment so maybe that's making me grumpy....

 

I hate brake fluid and anti freeze!
Lin

 

While the rad is out I took the opportunity to replace the ragged and chipped Flex-o-lite fan I had. This is how I reduced the depth of the blades to clear the AC pulleys. This is what I do at night when I should be sleeping. That and annoying sleepy barmaids......

In addition I've started fitting the new R-134A condenser. Despite being virtually identical dimensionally to the original it seems to fit the space much better. I want to build a respectable mounting as this one is totally alloy and shouldn't have to support the big electric fan on it's own.

In addition, as the rad is OUT, I'm pondering attempting a proper shroud in alloy. I've got the tools if I can find the skill.


[IMG][/IMG]

 

Just placed an order to have the original AC control plaque redone in 1/8" alloy. The original is a thin foil piece glued to the leather console. Pretty cheesy when new but the 40 years have really hurt it. Can't wait to see the result. If the piece is as nice as I expect I'm thinking to put it back in the same spot. Opinions Please....




While I was there I asked about reproducing the round black switch plinths on our dashes. I want one to read "CHOKE" for the switch I use in place of the thermal switch. They said "no problem" so I'll take a sample down when I go next.