restore all original 1967 Jag MK2 340
#41
01-08-2013, 03:29 AM
Veteran Member
Impressive stuff.
Just a pointer although you are more experienced than I am, where possible when welding in new longitudinal chassis sections try to include some 'puddle' welding with steel welded internally across the join rather than just relying on 'butt' joints.
ie, two hollow sections both drilled with a bracing piece attached and welded through the holes and then brought together to finish the welding process.
This will give you much more strength. (pic 0058).
Just a pointer although you are more experienced than I am, where possible when welding in new longitudinal chassis sections try to include some 'puddle' welding with steel welded internally across the join rather than just relying on 'butt' joints.
ie, two hollow sections both drilled with a bracing piece attached and welded through the holes and then brought together to finish the welding process.
This will give you much more strength. (pic 0058).
#42
01-08-2013, 04:38 AM
Richard
Thanks for this and this is exactly what I plan to do . It will be easier to weld when car is on rotation jig and higher, i plan to attach a peice about 8 inches long to go over the two holes and pick up on the new manufactured parts.
This why I am only 70% complete on the welding of this part.
Thanks for this and this is exactly what I plan to do . It will be easier to weld when car is on rotation jig and higher, i plan to attach a peice about 8 inches long to go over the two holes and pick up on the new manufactured parts.
This why I am only 70% complete on the welding of this part.
#43
01-08-2013, 11:33 AM
Veteran Member
Good on you. The extra metal plates are welded 'inside' the hollow chassis rails and are therefore invisible when the job is completed.
You weld them through the holes that you drilled in the existing and new sections to be joined.
On box section LR/RR chassis this means that you can add 4 plates per joined section and then finish with a seam all the way round.
And yes, it is time consuming but in my case when chopping a foot out of the middle of a RR chassis to shorten from 100" to 86" to make a comp coiler with S1 body work I didn't want the thing to snap at an inopportune moment.
Keep up the good work.
And post lots of pictures.
You weld them through the holes that you drilled in the existing and new sections to be joined.
On box section LR/RR chassis this means that you can add 4 plates per joined section and then finish with a seam all the way round.
And yes, it is time consuming but in my case when chopping a foot out of the middle of a RR chassis to shorten from 100" to 86" to make a comp coiler with S1 body work I didn't want the thing to snap at an inopportune moment.
Keep up the good work.
And post lots of pictures.
#44
01-16-2013, 06:05 PM
Senior Member
Jose
Thanks for this and as you can see I have changed the colour of the sump as you recomended, the problem was I watched a DVD on an XK engine rebuild and their sump was black so I copied this, however looking at other restorations the majority of the sumps are silver.
I have also now assembled the head to the block and get the camshafts all lined up. Just got the rocker covers to fit and then I will pack up the engine whilst I do the rest of the car.
Considering I could not even turn this engine when I removed it and it looked like it spent most of its life on a beach!!!!!! I am pleased with the outcome. It is easy to turn and you can hear the compression every time you turn it. Lets hope it purrs when it goes back in the car next year and I fire it up.
Next job is to start some welding - something I haven't done for over 30 years since I completed my apprentiship, lets hope its like riding a bike in that you never forget how too!!!!
Anyway some more shots of the rebuild so enjoy.
Thanks for this and as you can see I have changed the colour of the sump as you recomended, the problem was I watched a DVD on an XK engine rebuild and their sump was black so I copied this, however looking at other restorations the majority of the sumps are silver.
I have also now assembled the head to the block and get the camshafts all lined up. Just got the rocker covers to fit and then I will pack up the engine whilst I do the rest of the car.
Considering I could not even turn this engine when I removed it and it looked like it spent most of its life on a beach!!!!!! I am pleased with the outcome. It is easy to turn and you can hear the compression every time you turn it. Lets hope it purrs when it goes back in the car next year and I fire it up.
Next job is to start some welding - something I haven't done for over 30 years since I completed my apprentiship, lets hope its like riding a bike in that you never forget how too!!!!
Anyway some more shots of the rebuild so enjoy.
What is the DVD you watched on the XK engine rebuild? Can you tell me how to access one? Thanks!
Lin
#45
01-16-2013, 07:24 PM
Senior Member
#46
01-18-2013, 01:21 PM
I got my DVD during a Jag event in the UK last year and it cost £20 I think. It gave me so good points but it does not include everything but for my first strip down and rebuild it was a good basis for confidence. As you can see my engine was in even worse condition that the DVD shows. You can see a trailer for this on www.youtube - if you put in "repair a siezed XK engine" it should show you the intro.
You can buy thid DVD online from the following www.classiccarengines.co.uk
Hope this helps
#48
01-18-2013, 07:27 PM
Senior Member
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#49
01-19-2013, 11:44 AM
Sorry about that, but if you ever need any adivice don't hesitate to contact.
#50
02-03-2013, 11:15 AM
Well this weekend got the Jag on the "Spit Roast" so to say. Bought this kit last year in many pieces and built it up in garage.This will allow better access for welding underneath etc.
I have also removed two doors and will remove the other two as well as the front and back windscreens next weekend. Now that thecar can turn over it will allow me to remove the last brake and fuel pipes as well as the exhaust shield.
I can also finish the welding around the front crossmember as well.
I will keep you all posted.
I have also removed two doors and will remove the other two as well as the front and back windscreens next weekend. Now that thecar can turn over it will allow me to remove the last brake and fuel pipes as well as the exhaust shield.
I can also finish the welding around the front crossmember as well.
I will keep you all posted.
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Cadillac (10-14-2013)
#51
02-06-2013, 04:02 PM
more progress
Well I have now got the Jag on the "spit roast" so to say. As you can see putting it on this jig will allow me better access to complete all the structural welding and get the chassis back to condition, then there is just the rest to repair.
I will keep you updated on my progress, now there is only the sills to replace, repair the front wheel arches, install the new floor pan on the drivers side, finish of the front cross member before moving to the back end.
Hey we are on the homeward trail!!!!!!
I will keep you updated on my progress, now there is only the sills to replace, repair the front wheel arches, install the new floor pan on the drivers side, finish of the front cross member before moving to the back end.
Hey we are on the homeward trail!!!!!!
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Cadillac (10-14-2013)
#52
02-06-2013, 06:19 PM
#53
02-07-2013, 07:36 AM
Graham
thanks for your point and if you look closely at the picture taken from the rear looking forward you will see a metal strap going to the suspension housings as I also thought about the weight and did not think the original was going to hold it. I have attached two unpainted straps to the rear red part of what I purchased..
It has been like this for a couple of days now and has not fell off, hopefully we dont have an earthquake!!!!!!!
thanks for your point and if you look closely at the picture taken from the rear looking forward you will see a metal strap going to the suspension housings as I also thought about the weight and did not think the original was going to hold it. I have attached two unpainted straps to the rear red part of what I purchased..
It has been like this for a couple of days now and has not fell off, hopefully we dont have an earthquake!!!!!!!
#55
02-08-2013, 04:18 AM
Graham
thanks for your point and if you look closely at the picture taken from the rear looking forward you will see a metal strap going to the suspension housings as I also thought about the weight and did not think the original was going to hold it. I have attached two unpainted straps to the rear red part of what I purchased..
It has been like this for a couple of days now and has not fell off, hopefully we dont have an earthquake!!!!!!!
thanks for your point and if you look closely at the picture taken from the rear looking forward you will see a metal strap going to the suspension housings as I also thought about the weight and did not think the original was going to hold it. I have attached two unpainted straps to the rear red part of what I purchased..
It has been like this for a couple of days now and has not fell off, hopefully we dont have an earthquake!!!!!!!
I hadn't realised they were attached to the spit.
Always amazing how rust can attack differently. The rear sills have the usual rot at the rear ends but the spare wheel well looks almost untouched. I've seen the same well on later models where the entire bottom has dropped out and left the wheel lying on the ground!
Graham
#56
02-10-2013, 03:24 PM
Graham
Yes it was attached to the original frame as it looked a bit precarious so I added the straps.
Any way now that I have better access I have finished the repair to the front chassis. This ended up to be three pieces of metal all welded together. All that is left to do is to drill the holes for the engine mountings.
Also made a jog to keep the B post in place when I start to remove the inner and outer sills. Hopefully this will mean that the doors will still fit when all the repairs are completed. Attached this to the rear seat belt mount and also to the front dash. Drilled a hole in the B post to mount the cross piece.
Anyway attached is the completed repair and the frame.
Yes it was attached to the original frame as it looked a bit precarious so I added the straps.
Any way now that I have better access I have finished the repair to the front chassis. This ended up to be three pieces of metal all welded together. All that is left to do is to drill the holes for the engine mountings.
Also made a jog to keep the B post in place when I start to remove the inner and outer sills. Hopefully this will mean that the doors will still fit when all the repairs are completed. Attached this to the rear seat belt mount and also to the front dash. Drilled a hole in the B post to mount the cross piece.
Anyway attached is the completed repair and the frame.
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Cadillac (10-14-2013)
#57
02-19-2013, 12:31 AM
Well now that the jig allows me to rotate the car I can get on with some serious removals. The biggest task is obviously the removal of the inner and outer sills.
Over this week I managed to get both the sills off the the left hand side and I attach some photos of how they came off. As you can also see from the shovel full of rust pieces I think i have made the right decision, all this came from inside the sill when I cut it in half to remove. I am also replacing the floor panel in the front area as well as the jacking points all round.
Over this week I managed to get both the sills off the the left hand side and I attach some photos of how they came off. As you can also see from the shovel full of rust pieces I think i have made the right decision, all this came from inside the sill when I cut it in half to remove. I am also replacing the floor panel in the front area as well as the jacking points all round.
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Cadillac (10-14-2013)
#59
02-19-2013, 02:35 PM
From looking at your website it looks like we are doing a very similar task. From what I understand of your German you are also ready to replace the sills with new parts.
The jig only cost me around 20 euros for materials but it holds the B post in the right position so when I come to refit the doors hopefully I will have less problems.
#60
02-27-2013, 03:35 PM
Time for the next installment. Once the inner and outer sills were removed it allowed the removal of the jacking points. The front came off with the piece of floor panel I plan to replace but more about that in later installments. The rear jacking points also needed removal as can be seen from the pictures.
Once I removed this it was very obvious that I would need to either replace or repair the suspension spring hangers. I decided to repair and cut out the bad parts on the reinfocing channels and spring clamp and then repair all three parts with new metal. I then welded a reinforcing piece across the inner reinforcing channel. When I install the jacking points I may also put another piece of metal across the out reinforcing channel
Attached are some pictures of before, during and after of the repair. I will post more pictures when I have repaired the jacking point as well.
Once I removed this it was very obvious that I would need to either replace or repair the suspension spring hangers. I decided to repair and cut out the bad parts on the reinfocing channels and spring clamp and then repair all three parts with new metal. I then welded a reinforcing piece across the inner reinforcing channel. When I install the jacking points I may also put another piece of metal across the out reinforcing channel
Attached are some pictures of before, during and after of the repair. I will post more pictures when I have repaired the jacking point as well.
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Cadillac (10-14-2013)