For those of you brave enough to venture into replacing your own lower breather hose, here is a how to:
Intake Manifold Removal:
Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Disconnect the EGR vacuum regulator (EVR) valve electrical connector.
Disconnect the vacuum hose connector from the EGR vacuum regulator valve.
Disconnect the IMT Valve connectors.
Disconnect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor electrical connector.
Disconnect the hoses from the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor.
Disconnect the inlet and outlet intake manifold coolant hoses, making note of the routing for reassembly. (You do not want to hook them up backwards)
Detach the EGR valve.
Remove the intake manifold bracket securing bolts - 1 on front, 1 on right side.
Remove the intake manifold securing bolts noting location.
Disconnect the engine breather hose,
Remove the intake manifold and dsicard gaskets. Replace with new.
Next, remove the 4 bolts securing lower manifold to engine. Remove the 10mm bolt at front of engine holding the fuel line secure. Lift lower fuel rail manifold up and move to the side. Replace these gaskets also. You can now see the lower breather hose (fat L shape). Cut carefully with razor blade to remove. Lube new hose using suitable silicone spray and install. Also replace the hose above that one and the 90 degree that is above that.
While you are there, if the 3 ignition coils under the intake are green or yellow labels, you may want to replace them with new black label coils. Sucks to have to go back in there.
Reinstall is reverse of removal. Do not overtighten the bolts.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!!
If you have read FactoryJaguarTech’s instruction on how to change the ignition coils (above) on the RH bank (under the inlet manifold) and the 90 deg rubber hose elbow, the following will help a lot as it explains how to really do the job in pictures. Big thanks to FactoryJaguarTech’s instruction list as it helped me to have the b*lls to do this moderately difficult task. Don’t bother with the Jaguar manual, it might as well be in Japanese.
WHY DO IT—Well, I had an occasional misfire at idle and around 40 to 60 mph going up hill and accelerating. Didn’t feel like an ignition coil so considered it to be the breather or an intermittent coil problem or both.
Now I understand why I did not get a response on my questions in reference to the coils. Right here on this page in front of my eyes. All I had to do was search a little bit. Thanks very much for the info!!!!! Really appreciate it very much.
My Jag ran great after completing the lower-breather hose replacement journey... but within weeks the idle got rough and rougher as time went on (two months now). I seem to have a thin layer/coating of oil in the intake manifold.
Any advice? I hope I gave enough info to give you an idea of my problem.
Remove the intake manifold securing bolts noting location. At very back, 2 of the 8mm bolts are holding down a round metal bracket. Once removed throw that metal bracket in the garbage. It serves no purpose other than to chafe your wiring harness.
WELL now we know who said this...
I was just accused of this in another thread, and I responded I would NEVER say this. I always reinstall that bracket...Reason. I think it was Carol in training 1 year when the Stype was out for a few years. We questioned about this bracket and its purpose. To which she pulled up pics of 2 totally burned to the ground V6 Stypes that the techs had discarded those brackets. Both cars rear ended the car in front hard enough to push the engine back enough to break off the fuel rail pressure sensor that it protects...This resulted in 40 psi fuel fuel spraying out onto a hot engine...Both accidents resulted in lawsuits to the dealers, and Jaguar washed there hands of the suits since they were there from the factory for this reason........
WORKING FOR THOSE THAT DO NOT EVERY DAY
Just want to confirm, I thought Brutal had suggested discarding that bracket and I was wrong. Sorry for stating this in my post in reference to the coils project. I also have oil in the manifold and I am hoping it was the bad o rings doing it. I got to tell you though from now experiencing all of this, the rings that were on were yellow in color and they really looked just as good as the green ones I put on. They did not seem of a lower grade but could be wrong. Anxiously awaiting the response on what also dould be the culprit for the oil in manifold. Thanks
The imt orings leak vacuum and oil out of them. They are not the reason, you will always have oil residue in the intake. The reason is the clean air act and epa. Instead of crankcase vapor( oil vapor and combustion byproducts that make it past the rings) being released into the air, theyre sent through the intake to be burned in the engine to reduce pollution.
The yellow orings are slightly smaller than the green, and the green coating is a sealant. The green are wayyy better at sealing. Even to the point of having to pry the imt's out to get them out if you need to in the future.
WORKING FOR THOSE THAT DO NOT EVERY DAY
Brutal's point about the IMT O-rings is right on the money. If you've held both the old-style yellow ones and the new-style green ones side-by-side in your hand, you can easily see how much larger and rounder the new-style green ones are. Since I removed my old yellow ones and replaced them with new green ones back in mid-January, not one drop of oil has seeped through to the black plastic base of the lower IMT valve. This new O-ring design appears to solve that problem once and for all....
2005 S-Type 3.0, Quartz / Dove
2006 XK8 Victory Edition Convertible, Onyx / Cashmere
Raleigh, North Carolina