Well, I read all through the forum, and followed Brutal's suggestion and changed the ignition switch. Unfortunately it didn't work.

Now my car has been at the Auto Electrician for a total of 8 days on/off with labor costs approaching $1000.

They can't figure out how to isolate the drain. They've pulled fuses and check all the obvious.

The problem they can't get passed is the issue w/ unplugging modules to isolate the drain, but, the car won't appear to sleep because it seems - according to them - that w/ the circuit broken, the car doesn't sleep so they can't determine which module the extra current is coming from.

HELP !!!! Please - I'm 1000 miles from the nearest Jag dealer and it takes me 2 days to drive just to get there. That is not really an option now.

Can i get some detailed suggestions on how to attack each module to figure out where the draw is coming from?

cheers
Scott

 

Tell us what car you have so we can try to help!!

 

Matt's comments prompted me to put this in my sig:

 

Gotta help us to try and help you Scott.....the more info the better!

 

Sorry guys
I tried to put all that info in my signature, but, since I'm new I guess it won't save.
I was remiss in not saying which car. Its a 2000 S type, 4.0L V8 - I'm American, living in the Australian Outback on a military base- moved from UK bringing my car w/ me here.
The poor car is suffering from the heat

Since I've been here 6 months, I've replace the DCCV, the Climate Control Module, 2 window regulators, and entire long motor. Spent around $10,000. Yikes.
I just want to fix the battery drain.
cheers,
Scott

 

Maybe worth getting AE (AutoEnginuity) so you can read codes from (almost) all the modules, hoping to find clues.

 

The Auto Electricians here have an OBD2 scan tool. They said there aren't any engine codes.But we are not sure how that works correctly in the fact that don't you have to get a tool that is specifically designed for Jaguar, etc. ?
I know AE is just a brand - but, are there some brands that will work w/ my car and some that won't ?
cheers

 

Do yourself a favour and instead of guessing read up on AE.

 

$249 for the OBD2 Scan tool, and $229 for the Jaguar expansion w/ the AE tool.
I wonder if spending $500 is worth it. Anyone else have a cheaper OBD2 option? thansk JV8 - it might be my best option, but, I'd still like to find out about a cheaper tool. Too bad you can'r rent one of those like renting a carpet cleaner machine.
Cheers....thanks
Scott

 

There is no cheaper option and after throwing $10,000 at it I'm surprised $500 is too much. Good luck.

 

I'm not convinced reading codes will be much help in this instance, but it's possible.

The first thing you need to have your electrical guys do is read through these two bulletins. That will help them get a grasp on what is happening once the car is shut off. The car uses 'Switched System Relays' to control system power and provide a way to shut everything down after a period of time. That's how they fix it so if you leave a door open for instance, the interior lights get powered down after the required period so the battery is not run down.

The bulletin says to just connect a DVOM between a disconnected battery cable and the battery. I'm not fond of that method; I use a battery disconnect so I can hook it up so it starts and runs normally, then when I shut it down to test parasitic draw, I just have to connect my ammeter across the switch and open the switch. Then all current is going through the meter. One good trick is to set the car with the driver window down and the sunvisor pulled down. Shut the car down and remove the key, then open the visor mirror. The visor lights will stay on until the Switched System Relays drop out, about 45 minutes. If they go off as expected, the Switched System is working, if they don't, the hunt begins for the cause. I suspect yours is not shutting down correctly, so the lights never go out.

The most likely cause is power loss to one of the body modules, one front [GECM] and one rear [RECM]. They are both powered by the same fuse and BOTH, NOT JUST THE FRONT need to be checked for power equaling battery voltage like the one bulletin says. [Download the S1 S-Type electrical guide for pin numbers and wire colors, etc.]

If that proves out, the next most likely cause is one of those modules themselves. That means you have to isolate them ONE AT A TIME. That is not as easy as it sounds. Have your guys look at diagram figure 1.5, there is a connector bus that has a wire going to each module. That allows either one of those modules to power up the Switched System. [Terminal FH9-21 at the front and CA101-4 at the rear.] What I do is find a spot where each wire has a little slack and I snip the wire and put a shielded flat spade connector in. Set it up for another 45 minute power down and pull one of the connectors apart. If the visor lamps go out, that's your offender; if not, try the other one.

Here's the Wiring Diag:
https://www.myotherdrive.com/dyn/fil...a64fi/S1_S.pdf
https://www.myotherdrive.com/dyn/fil.../S414-01am.pdf
https://www.myotherdrive.com/dyn/fil...fi/S414-02.pdf

Desperate times require desperate measures....... here's all of them!

After everything that's been done so far, maybe another direction might help.

Good luck!

 

Oh, I wasn't saying it WOULD be the answer just that it's cheap compared to most things - like driving to a dealer!

BTW, I sincerely hope he wasn't using any auto electrician or the like who doesn't have access to the wiring diagrams!!

Especially as they're available free on the net..........

And of course the TSBs via the forum stickies.

 

He won't be able to see any attachments till he gets to the ten post mark.

Maybe posting an intro would help?

 

Nice one Steve....

Jim

 

Worth mentioning - as it always is in these threads at some point - that one of the biggest causes of drain is aftermarket equipment / wiring. Even if it's been removed (because that's often fouled up).

Another is any work done "recently" (before the problem started).

One not often mentioned is age. Everything gets worse (due to heat, dirt, chafing, corrosion, you name it).

 

well, I'm looking now to find a 'good' (and cheap) replacement for the RECM and GEM. I will try to narrow it down. The guys today found a Jag tech on the coast willing to help. because of him, i know where to look to see which 'version' of the RECM and GEM I need -
Let me ask - will I have to buy RHD RECM since my car is UK/Aus, or can I order one w/ the same codes from the States? I see the wiring diagram differentiates btwn LHD and RHD.

Also, yes, I've spent a lot - but, I don't know if spending another $500 on a scan tool that may or may not fix the issue just to read the codes once is worth it.

 

this is my "tenth" post.

thanks for all the help. Its great. i will take this in. I need to isolate the problem badly, its killing me.

 

XJRguy, I was able to get your pdf's ..thanks. ONe of those TSB - the first one - we already looked into. While the techs were investigating, the Jag dealer from Adelaide said that really only applied 10 years ago, and these failures - according to him - happened to new cars and wasn't expected to be seen 10 yrs later.

Also...one other thing. Is it possible the car wasn't earthed properly after the engine install? Where are the earth points for the main engine block? i didn't see that in the diagram? I did see grounding points, not sure if I should be seeing earthing straps at each point.

 

Well, I'm going to have to differ with the dealer guy down there. I still run into this on the first generation S-Types to this day. In fact, I even see the same thing happen to the 2003 and later cars even though the circuits and wire colors are somewhat different than yours; the basic circuit operation is still very similar.

A far as the grounds [earths], yes, that may very well play a roll here. Our LH drive cars have the large engine ground strap attached to the RH side of the engine/trans assembly right below the starter. From there is goes around [below] the body arch and up to the body behind the wheelarch liner at the rear of the wheel well. I'm not sure if the RHD has the same or has it on the other side.

Anything that causes a low voltage condition in a module power supply, grounds included, can cause a module not to think straight. I think that's what's going on here. Just remember, the power may be just fine, and one of the modules may be failing to release the Switched System relays.

Couldn't hurt to track down any ground you find in the wiring diagram and check it for security.

Good luck!

 

Well that's good, now all knowledge will be revealed to you.

Perhaps you could reveal that intro post also?