DIY 2000 S-Type Transmission Valve Body Rebuild FAQ
#1
DIY 2000 S-Type Transmission Valve Body Rebuild FAQ
Hey team, it’s just me again with another DIY, this time I’m rebuilding my valve body and I just thought I would share, just incase any fellow team members has to perform this themselves..
Quick back story:
I kept receiving a P0745 = Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction code, and the car was getting the shakes around 35-45 mph, ie I was losing 3 gear!..
Apparently this is common problem with the ford 5r55n trans, the shops will all recommend it time to replace the trans @ $2,500+/- .. WRONG!.. It’s just time to spend $7.50 on a new 4-3 “prestroke valve spring and about 5 -6hrs of labor..
So this is how I did it, for what its worth..
Raise the car and support all side with jack stands
Drain the trans fluid, remove the oxygen sensor connector block and disconnect the Sensor, then you can remove the pan.
Now it should look something like this, remove the filter.
Ok here the bottom of the VB looking up with the filter removed, now we need to remove the following components:
P.S.
Yes.. I know.. I know.. JagV8 would add in arrows and notes referencing each part, well.. He’s a better man than I am.. lol.. sorry..
Quick back story:
I kept receiving a P0745 = Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction code, and the car was getting the shakes around 35-45 mph, ie I was losing 3 gear!..
Apparently this is common problem with the ford 5r55n trans, the shops will all recommend it time to replace the trans @ $2,500+/- .. WRONG!.. It’s just time to spend $7.50 on a new 4-3 “prestroke valve spring and about 5 -6hrs of labor..
So this is how I did it, for what its worth..
Raise the car and support all side with jack stands
Drain the trans fluid, remove the oxygen sensor connector block and disconnect the Sensor, then you can remove the pan.
Now it should look something like this, remove the filter.
Ok here the bottom of the VB looking up with the filter removed, now we need to remove the following components:
- Pressure switch
- Reverse servo
- Solenoid body
- Valve body plate and gasket
- Control body Separator plate
- Remove the remainder of the bolts and drop the valve body
P.S.
Yes.. I know.. I know.. JagV8 would add in arrows and notes referencing each part, well.. He’s a better man than I am.. lol.. sorry..
Last edited by tdc; 01-14-2011 at 01:11 PM.
The following 4 users liked this post by tdc:
#2
Here’s the valve body bottom side
Upper side
Remove the 3 bolts that hold on the VB gasket and remove the gasket
Ok now it’s time to take out the parts you purchased, I decided to rebuild my valve body since I was here, you don't have to.
Now you simply push-in the valves and pull the retaining pin / clips and gently remove the existing components.
Here’s what I’ve got going on
And here’s my problem!... just as the internet “foretold” hahaha this little cheep $7.00 spring almost cost me $2500..
Upper side
Remove the 3 bolts that hold on the VB gasket and remove the gasket
Ok now it’s time to take out the parts you purchased, I decided to rebuild my valve body since I was here, you don't have to.
Now you simply push-in the valves and pull the retaining pin / clips and gently remove the existing components.
Here’s what I’ve got going on
And here’s my problem!... just as the internet “foretold” hahaha this little cheep $7.00 spring almost cost me $2500..
Last edited by tdc; 01-10-2011 at 02:37 AM.
#3
Now reinstall everything in the reverse order it was removed.
Time to refill the trans… this is no biggie at all.. simply remove the center screw on the trans drain plug and then unscrew the trans fill screw (just above the pan on the driver side) and fill it up.. once oil starts to come out the drain plug center, add the plug and now your about 2 quarts away for it coming out the fill whole..
Once your trans is filled, replace the screw and while it’s still on jack stands, start it up, push on the brake and run it through the gears, this will suck up some oil.
Let it run for a while and then recheck your fluid level..
Once your confident your trans is full, double check everything, remove the jack stands and go for a trouble free test drive..
Builder note:
The only thing that surprised was when I removed the VB from the trans (1) spring fell out.. this is the main spring.. don't lose it and put it back when you reassembling the VB to the trans
When you remove the VB gasket from the VB, please look inside the VB, you’ll see two small ball *****, don't lose them!..
When your reassembling the VB parts, PLEASE do not over tighten!.. It’s only 10 MN, snug tight!..
Total project length for me was 5 hrs
Total cost for me was just under $100 for everything oil included
These were the tools used for the project
I hope you found this helpful
Thanks for your time everybody and have a great week
Tdc..
Time to refill the trans… this is no biggie at all.. simply remove the center screw on the trans drain plug and then unscrew the trans fill screw (just above the pan on the driver side) and fill it up.. once oil starts to come out the drain plug center, add the plug and now your about 2 quarts away for it coming out the fill whole..
Once your trans is filled, replace the screw and while it’s still on jack stands, start it up, push on the brake and run it through the gears, this will suck up some oil.
Let it run for a while and then recheck your fluid level..
Once your confident your trans is full, double check everything, remove the jack stands and go for a trouble free test drive..
Builder note:
The only thing that surprised was when I removed the VB from the trans (1) spring fell out.. this is the main spring.. don't lose it and put it back when you reassembling the VB to the trans
When you remove the VB gasket from the VB, please look inside the VB, you’ll see two small ball *****, don't lose them!..
When your reassembling the VB parts, PLEASE do not over tighten!.. It’s only 10 MN, snug tight!..
Total project length for me was 5 hrs
Total cost for me was just under $100 for everything oil included
These were the tools used for the project
I hope you found this helpful
Thanks for your time everybody and have a great week
Tdc..
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#10
Your more than welcome sir and thank you.. I hope helps out someone else one day..
Thank you.. I was really happy to find out that I didn’t have to spend the big bucks.. I just hope it helps save someone else some money too..
Thank you.. It did take a little longer than I expected, but it's my first time, so I had to go slow and gentle..
Thank you Jon...
Thank you.. That's actually what my wallet was saying too.. lol.. It does feel good not to haft to pay the mechanic anymore and I'm learning too.. So its kind of a win-win..
Excellent another “Renaissance man”.. Thank you sir.. I did save tons of $$$.. I'm pretty proud of myself for that alone..
#11
I'm rubbish at doing photos let alone arrows, so rest easy. I'd be too scared to do what you've done, too! Great stuff, btw.
#12
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Glasgow, Scotland UK
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TDC --Top Man.....great write up and post and thanks so much for sharing
These posts of yours are getting to become a bit of a habit......careful or you'll be going into the hall of fame with all the other guys with so many of these type of posts to their credit.
Most of them have already saved hundreds of members thousands and thousands of $$$$$$
Kudos to you
#13
TDC --Top Man.....great write up and post and thanks so much for sharing
These posts of yours are getting to become a bit of a habit......careful or you'll be going into the hall of fame with all the other guys with so many of these type of posts to their credit.
Most of them have already saved hundreds of members thousands and thousands of $$$$$$
Kudos to you
Thank you Jim, but I don’t think I'm even close to that honor.. I'm just extremely fortunate to be here.. Well that and my dam car, she keeps braking down.. So.. I guess it's a win - win hahaha
Have a great weekend and thank you again for the kind but undeserving words..
Shaun
Thanks Jagv8.. IDK.. It was either you and Joycesjag that had all of the neat arrows and boxes pointing out all of the parts.. once I saw that.. I was like.. OOohhh man.... I'm not doing that.. hahahaaa..
#14
I did exactly the same on my 2001 S-Type, except that I added the SK Shift Kit and a new Solenoid Block in addition to the Sonax springs. Solved a number of issues with the 5R55N - shifts like a perfectly working transmission now. If you are starting to have troubles with the 5R55N, I recommend doing this as it should ensure an extended life for the transmission.
Last edited by Christian 96 XJR; 01-16-2011 at 05:16 PM.
#15
Question...hopefully not a stupid 1
Ok 1.you are the f'ing man! Lol I'm replacing my 4-3 pre stroke valve this week!!! 2. Ok I ordered my spring a gasket and a filter. Now I see you have multiple springs out. which is the one I'm going for? Is there anyone who can tell me which one it is on the pic? Again thank you for the detailed procedure!!
#16
I wish I were that computer savvy!! I use good old fashioned masking tape and a Sharpie. Maybe some day someone can tell (inform) me on what program does all the nice and pretty arrows and such.
#17
Ok 1.you are the f'ing man! Lol I'm replacing my 4-3 pre stroke valve this week!!! 2. Ok I ordered my spring a gasket and a filter. Now I see you have multiple springs out. which is the one I'm going for? Is there anyone who can tell me which one it is on the pic? Again thank you for the detailed procedure!!
sonnax will be one site
#18
I did exactly the same on my 2001 S-Type, except that I added the SK Shift Kit and a new Solenoid Block in addition to the Sonax springs. Solved a number of issues with the 5R55N - shifts like a perfectly working transmission now. If you are starting to have troubles with the 5R55N, I recommend doing this as it should ensure an extended life for the transmission.
Ahh.. That’s sounds like something I would have done if I had known.. Well.. there’s always next time..
Thanks for the tips..
Tdc..
Ok 1.you are the f'ing man! Lol I'm replacing my 4-3 pre stroke valve this week!!! 2. Ok I ordered my spring a gasket and a filter. Now I see you have multiple springs out. which is the one I'm going for? Is there anyone who can tell me which one it is on the pic? Again thank you for the detailed procedure!!
Hahahaa.. Hey thanks sir.. Noo.. please ask away.. How can I help.
1. Thanks and best of luck.. it should take about 4-5 hours.. go slow and you'll be fine.. Please freel free to PM me if you get stuck.
2, Well.. if you just looking to replace your 3-4 pre stroke then you would want to get (56947J-S1) Sonnex part number. I replaced the rest of the springs since I was there.. you dont have too.. Here's a place to get the spring if you still need it? http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2&Product_Code =S46741G-3&Category_Code=5R55Nvbkits
Here's something else that might help too..
Hope that helps..
tdc..
Last edited by tdc; 01-18-2011 at 09:07 PM.
#19
yo i feaking love you TDC you have been so dam helpful. I did it all today in like 4 hours but i need quick help with what may be the eaiest part, but yet i want to make sure im right.....where is the fill hole exactly?? i see i nut with a bolt going through it on the driver side above the pan is that it? again thank you soooo0o0oo0o dam much!!! please reply asap anyone and everyone
forgot to mention i see two screws with an bolt on it one closer to the engine....and another right by the black sensor a bit higher up...if its one of those please let me know thank you.
forgot to mention i see two screws with an bolt on it one closer to the engine....and another right by the black sensor a bit higher up...if its one of those please let me know thank you.
Last edited by FireMedicJ; 01-27-2011 at 03:10 PM. Reason: forgot stuff
#20