There are lots of posts but especially relevant for your era car: find member BugDoc and then his posts.

 

hedge,

i have a 2001 s-type 3.0. I have had error codes p1383 and 1388. initially, i researched and found similar results, TSB relating to false error codes (1383 and 1388), so i took it to the dealer who said they installed the software update (for $200) and it seemed to help, run a little smoother and codes went away temporarily, they suggested I drive and monitor. i picked up my car, let sit a few days, went to start, dead battery (ty dealership), got new battery, codes came back. (BTW overall diagnosis by Jaguar was $6000 for a new wiring harness (after market coils and solenoids had been installed, and wires were spliced @ the solenoids, they obviously noticed that and immediately said must be the wiring harness... and stopped looking for the real problem).

So, since none of this helped i then had a mechanic specialized in European cars look at it. we carefully inspected and replaced solenoids, coils, and spark plugs as needed on both sides of the engine, also soldered spliced wiring. after doing so (2 separate occasions) the car ran well, codes turned off.

However, no matter what i did the codes would come back RANDOMLY. The engine light would turn off for months/ weeks, then be on for weeks, before turning off. The car runs near perfect when the engine light is OFF, however when ON it shifts slower from gear to gear, and seems to shift at different rpms.

I AM NOW UNDER THE BELIEF THAT THIS IS A CASE OF RANDOM FALSE ERROR CODES, AND THAT IT IS A CPU SOFTWARE/ PCM PROBLEM WHICH CANNOT BE SOLVED (HAVE TRIED CHANGING PRACTICALLY ALL PARTS INVOLVED AND HAD DEALER INSPECT AND INSTALL SOFTWARE).

I HAVE HAD MY CAR FOR ABOUT A YEAR NOW, AND HAVEN'T BEEN ABLE TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM, JUST WHEN I THINK IT IS GONE FOR GOOD, IT POPS BACK UP.

I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU, HOWEVER YOU PROBABLY SHOULD FIX OTHER CODES (1383 AND 1388 ARE THE ONLY FALSE CODES). PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU EVER PERMANENTLY GET RID OF THESE CODES. THANKS, GOOD LUCK.

 

As I understand it, you should no longer get those codes - IF the reflash was done correctly. I'd read out the calibration ID and check. I'd also compare it with the label they should have added to your car. Did they? (Refer to TSB S303-09.)

You can read the PCM's CALID using almost any reasonably capable OBD tool, even an ELM327 (about $30) and hyperterminal.

 

Thanks for the info jklit! (It is quite disturbing, yet reasuring that I am not the only one paddleing up river in a sinking canoe!!) Unfortunately however, the reflash actually made my car run MUCH WORSE!! The RPM fluctuations and misfire are MUCH more prevelant, and the car seems to only shift harsh once it has reached operating temp. If I put it in 4th vice "D" for local driving (non-highway) it seems to shift more "normal". None-the-less, I will keep you all posted on the steps/results going forward.

So, I am starting with misfire on cyl#3, replacing the coil, then having the codes cleared, and then we'll attempt to further isolate any other problems/faults/codes from there. I am a bit overwhelmed, but I am grateful to you, the forum members, and especially jagv8 for his patience and info (although the more I learn, the more discouraged I become with my Jag).

jagv8, (-yes I have searched for it-), BUT could you PLEASE (re)post the entire TSB S303-09? THANKS in advance! As I mentioned, the car is running terrible, and the dealership did not place an "AUTHORIZED MODIFICATION LABEL" on the left B-post below the door striker plate which confirms the reflash has been done. So, I can only assume they have not actually read it in its entirety either. Which also begs to question as to whether it was even done properly??!?

 

One reason it might get worse is that the car has to re-learn the engine's characteristics BUT if there is a fault then those characteristics are bad. You'll probably have to fix the fault(s) and then try a battery disconnect, followed by more driving to see if it smooths out.

I'd fix the fault(s) as a priority.

To check whether the reflash was actually done, get an ELM327 or similar OBD lead. Very cheap on ebay.
Or, ask a dealer (a different one, presumably) to read out the calibration - but it'll cost you a lot more than the lead.

 

THANKS for the pdf jagv8!

The MIL shows "gearbox fault" (along with code 1788) which, as I am certain you already know, is very expensive. Thats why, after reading bugdoc's, and counless other posts, etc., I understood that the misfire was the most logical place to start? Then, move on to the faults that come back up.

 

I'd fix the misfiring FAST as your cats are at risk. But fix it properly, don't make things worse e.g. by causing air leaks.

The gearbox fault MIGHT not be there when the misfires are gone but if it is I'd think a specialist tranny place can fix it OK. It's a well-known box.

 

At the risk of sounding completely unknowledgeable, my Jag mechanic refuses to put any aftermarket coils (i.e.; ISO9001 CERTIFIED/Lifetime guaranteed) on my car, and will only use the Bosch coils. Is there any truth to this (besides the HUGE difference in price)? As well as, "needing to do ALL 6 at the same time, vice just the one on cyl#3"? The same also goes for the plugs, he refuses the OE AutoLite single platinum plugs vs. the NGK iridium?!?

What I am looking to do at this point, is to get the car up and running (with as little cost as possible!) properly, fix the misfire, etc. and then get rid of it for a newer model and less headaches.

 

If you already have it at the dealer and all apart go with his suggestions on replacement. If not, try it yourself. I did and I have a lot of pics posted in my posts of what everything looks like. I can't imagine yours is much different then mine. And after the changes, the car ran rough the first couple of times having to reprogram itself but then it was fine. Runs great right now.

 

IF the spark-coils meet the spec. as to high voltage output and current rise-time in the primary, there is no electrical reason you can't use them. I for one will not allow myself to be ripped off. Check the spec. sheet for your thrifty coils. Look at the Kv. output that it's at least the same or more as Bosch, check if there is a supressor resistor incorporated anywhere, and check the inductance in milli-Henries of the primary. This last shouldn't be TOO critical. If one coil in 8 goes bad, where is the reasoning that all the others will? Fair enough with glow plugs, they DO wear with constant use, but coil failure is just bad manufacture. Lottsa luck.
Leedsman.

 

hedge, has your mechanic or dealer suggested replacement of the IMT O-rings while the intake will be off? Also I am unsure, but isn't there a PCV located under the intake manifold as well?

As far as the el'cheapo coils, many people have purchased them off ebay, and as my memory serves me they have had no issues with them. I would go with the iridium plugs.

One other thing to think about is the hard plastic vacuum lines (prone to cracking), since the intake will be off it might be worth the extra cash to replace those too.

Just my 2 cents......

 

Rick is right on those points. Change those things he mentions if they have not been done already. And I have seen posts all over the board on costs of things. I am putting a thread together on this coils and plugs project, just taking a little longer then expected, and will put my bills up for review. Costs were not that bad and I did get a lot of things from the dealer.

 

Just my 2 cents... I actually do agree with your mechanic to a point. I tend to only use name brand stuff and stay away from the knock off stuff. I know some of the inflated price goes to marketing the name brand. On the flip side, you are also getting a better quality part as far as quality control goes. You also have a decent path of recourse should you end up with a faulty part. In our business we deal with knock offs all the time. Trust me, even with a lowly electrical connector, there is a great difference in manufacurer tolerences between the knock offs and the "real deal". In my trade....think of the disaster caused if your wiring harness was made with connectors and terminals that didn't seat properly...Heck Jaguar has enough issues using the good stuff...

 

Thanks guys! That is really A LOT of help, and good info...will insure that those other items are checked/replaced too (IMT O-ring, PCV, vac lines), and based all the info/my understanding, I will indeed press the issue for only 1 coil to be replaced (cyl#3) albeit the Bosch (Leedsman, you’re way over my head on the el’cheepo’s but will do my best to check specs) and, I'll even spring for the iridium plugs as suggested, I am a diehard tightwad, but at least prudent enough to ensure things are done correctly. Will let you know how it goes.

 

It was suggested that I also list the last 6 of my VIN which is M30574

 

OK, that's a 2001MY car so has more in common with the Lincoln LS than the later cars. It also has the Ford 5R55N autobox. I believe perfectly good plugs and coils are on ebay (etc). I agree you should be looking at the PCV elbow/pipe, changing the gaskets mentioned etc. Once fixed the car should be back to being good

(The VIN #s are in https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...4&d=1269505095 IIRC.)

The usual reason for changing all the coils is that it takes little extra time whereas taking it apart again to do them one by one costs each time. But also, they age due to the heat and hot/cold cycling so it's not uncommon for them to fail fairly close together in time.

And.... sometimes a bad coil is actually not the one flagged up. It's quite hard for the PCM to figure the bad one and it doesn't always get it right. If you swap the lot, you for sure got the bad one.

 

I agree, but if you really want to save money AND headaches atleast change coil packs that require the intake manifold to come off to change out.

Personally I would bite the bullet, purchase the good stuff, replace everything mentioned in posts and forget about it for a long time.

 

Rick - he has a pre-facelift (2001MY) car. So, #1,2,3 are in bank 1 (aka bank A - on the right, with 1 at the front) and 4,5,6 in bank 2 (aka bank B).

That's also in the Vehicle Specs as a picture - link above.

But yeah, do all the awkward ones at the same time. It would help to know whether the plugs were already changed but if not I'd do the ones on that side while it's apart.

 

thanks John for clarifing that

 

BTW, not to throw a plug in here or anything. (no pun intended) I do have a set of coils I removed from my V8 for sale. they only have about 10K miles on them throw me something resonable considering cost and depriciation and they are yours.