I am in need of help with my 2005 S type 3.0L. I am have a check engine light as well as restricted performance problems. I started with fault codes: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P1313, P1316, and P1000. After checking for vacuum leaks, changing MAF sensor, air filter, fuel filter, and spark plugs, and upper intake gaskets, I have dropped my code list down to having P0300, P0301, P0303, P0305, P1313, P1316, and P1000. After reading more posts on here I decided the Battery would be a good place to start, as it was the origanl. So after replacing battery the cylinder misfires have stopped. so now I am left with:
P0300--multiple misfire
P1313--not sure
P1316--not sure
P1000
I read about a vacuum line elbow under the lower intake manifold on a 2000 3.0L. Does a 2005 have have that because I cannot find it, the car is torn down now and want to make sure before I replace the IMT o-rings and put it back together. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks in advance.

FYI: I bought the car after it had been crashed in the front left side. The car ran rough but the air filter box was smashed at the time. I know the car ran good before the accident as I seen it on the side of the highway waiting for the tow truck...and there is no way it would run down the highway as it is.

 

justin, you nailed it with a new battery. There may be no reasons for thercodesexcept to clear em or perform a hard re-set of the ECU. Joyces Jag has a 3.0 He'll be here shortly.

 

Hey Justin, first off there is NO rubber elbow to worry about on the MY 2003 and up. That elbow is located under the LOWER intake on MY 2002 and older vehicles.

I assume you replaced the upper intake gaskets (upper plenum), did you replace the lowers as well? There are 4 bolts under the upper intake (once off) to gain access.

As far as the P1313 and P1316 here is the possibilities, I am posting the P1313 its for bank 1 and the P1316 is for for bank 2, identical to the one shown here:



you may have to copy and zoom in. They are pointing to a fuel or spark delivery problem.

I agree with bfgross, clear the codes, making sure the NEW battery is at full charge.

Don't worry about the P1000 code.

 

The codes PDF (one that is good enough) is in the FAQs. P1000 just shows you've cleared codes / changed battery (means OBD monitors not yet Complete). It should change to P1111. Look in that PDF

Is there any chance of damage to the air box or near it still being present? You can get misfires that way (because of air leaking in, thus not being metered or not properly).

Battery can cause misfires due to not supplying enough peak power thus poor sparks. However, if you still have misfire codes (and no air leak) next is to look at:
1. LTFTs (long term fuel trims) at idle and 2500rpm (in Park will do)
2. the freeze frame data (to see when the codes are flagged)

You'd expect the "when" part to be very different with an air leak than with a weak battery.

 

I experienced similar misfire issues in September/October 2009. Discovered that the air filter casing was cracked. The new casing came with a new MAF sensor. That seemed to fix the problem, but in January 2010 the factory IMT O-rings began to seep oil. Replaced them with the new-style O-rings within a week after discovering the seepage....

Absolutely no misfire issues since....

 

I am thinking out loud here.

I am not doubting the OPs mechanical abilities, but as I reread the first post, I am leaning on something may not have been installed correctly.

Jon has a valid point, make sure the air box lid is fitted correctly, many times people think the lid is on correct but it turns out it isn't especially if using an aftermarket filter.

Maybe go back and check the direction of the fuel filter flow arrow, making sure its pointing in the right direction.


Double check all vacuum line connections: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-52720/

Did you check the gap on the new plugs? What plugs did you purchase?

Was there oil in the spark plug holes?



Lastly here is a picture of the lower intake and gaskets (seals):

 

Great pics (again)!

 

Thanks for the suggestions thus far... I will be sure to double check my air filter lid when I get home. I know the casing is good because I replaced it with a salvage yard box and checked every inch of it prior to purchase. I am sure the fuel filter is also installed correctly because the mount bracket wouldn't allow someone to install backwards. As far as the plugs, I would have to dig out the boxes out of the trash when I get home, I only asked to the auto parts store to give me what the car recommended. I gapped to .50 and had no oil around plug holes. Under the intake manifold is suprisingly clean. I will be replacing the lower intake gaskets and IMT gaskets when the parts come in. How do you perform the "hard reset of the ecm" that BFSGROSS mentioned?bfsgross
Veteran Member

 

I know what you mean with reversing the fuel filter in bracket, but it can be done.

Instead of me typing an awefull alot go here and read post #6:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/2...eset-ecu-4258/

 

"gapped to .50" - someone please confirm if that's right!

Also, are they the RIGHT kind of plugs? For sure?

But.... what about the fuel trims? They'll reveal lots.

 

Gap should be between 0.051 and 0.056. I hope he used iridiums at the very least.


Fuel trims would be nice!

 

what type of plugs do you recommend? I am already in there again waiting for some lower in take gaskets that are on order, so I'll be better off changing them now.

 

+1 on iridium (i.e. what the car is specified to need). Be sure they come pre-gapped (as the OE plugs do) as you're not meant to re-gap that type (they're very delicate mechanically but tough temperature-wise which is how they stay sharp for so long).

 

Good information

 

yeah it is