I have browsed the site for quite a while and even found some very helpful data, but this time I need help myself.
The check engine light came on several months ago. I had the code scanned and it reported P1647. Which seems most commonly cured by an O2 sensor replacement.
Since, I was going to be down there doing the work I went ahead and replaced all 4 O2 sensors. I used the generic type sensors to make it affordable.
After the work was done, the check engine light did not go away. I had the codes scanned again and now have P1647,P1646,P1165,C1111. I used a meter to test continuity across the wiring connections and verified I had wired the sensors correctly color-to-color.
Are these generic sensors an issue for anyone else?
Is there a controller that these sensors report to that could be bad?
Any help would be MUCH APPRECIATED!!!
Thanks in advance, I'll try to return the favor someday.

 

Hi, I'm personally not a fan of the generic sensors - you can purchase the correct O2 sensor w/ the harness for about $30 each at www.rockauto.com - the "generic" sensors you purchased - ensure those sensors are correct for your application.

Regarding the C1111 - do you mean P1111?

You need to drive around a while in order for the PCM to dismiss the O2 codes - or you can clear them from the PCM and you should be good.

 

How do you clear the codes from the PCM?

I'd like to see the codes gone and see if some/all of them return.

The O2 sensors I ordered all list 2003 Jaguar in the compatibility charts.
I ordered different part numbers for upstream and downstream.

 

You hook up your OBDII scanner to the vehicle and hit "clear codes". Or, you can to Autozone and they can do it for you.

 

Stan, I used generic O2 sensors and they work fine. As abonano suggests...clear the codes.

 

I've no good comments on generics but if you have a 2003+ car then yes up & downstreams are indeed completely different.

You should not keep getting the codes but they will remain stored for many drives or until cleared (OBD tool or disconnect battery).

The MIL (CEL) should self-clear after a few drive cycles (engine cold to hot). If it doesn't, chances are a fault remains.

You SHOULD disconnect the battery for a job like this because you want to force the car to learn the new sensors. OBD clear will NOT do that. (But the car will very slowly relearn.) If the MIL comes back you have more codes and fault(s).

 

I guess it's time I break down and buy a scanner.
Thanks everyone for the help.

 

Thread in General Tech forum here. Probably get an ELM327.

 

Well I am making progress but still scratching my head a little. I bought a scanner and cleared the all of the codes, the scanner only reports P1000. They stayed cleared until the next morning when I started the car. I scanned again and have P1646 and P1647 again.
I have discovered a couple of oddities I was wondering if others have encountered:
1.) I start the car and 10 seconds later the check engine light comes on. I shut the car off, scan the codes and find P1646&P1647, I erase the codes, unplug the scanner, restart the car and the codes do not come back during my 30 minute commute. Then I come out of work 12 hours later, start the car and 10 seconds later the check engine light comes on. I can clear it and drive home without the code coming back. What could be causing this?
2.) If I leave the scanner plugged in while driving, it checks for codes about every 30 seconds. If I clear the 1646&1647 codes and leave the scanner plugged in, new codes will occur after a few minutes of driving (but the check engine light does not come on). The new codes are P0031&P0032, which I found to be indicating AN OPEN and A SHORT on the same O2 sensor? I can clear them and they will reoccur a few minutes later. How can I have an OPEN and a SHORT? Something is not adding up.....

Please help if you can!

 

Chafed harness maybe.

Read the codes PDF as it explains a lot such as that MIL usually needs 2 cycles.

See it for P1000

 

I'm still chugging away at this.....Any insight is much appreciated.

I found out the P0031 and P0032 codes are:
P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0032 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Can anyone tell me which of the four O2 sensors is bank 1 sensor 1?

I am suspecting 1 of the 4 new O2 sensors I installed is faulty.

 

P0031 and P0032 are dealing with the same sensor as you mentioned - Bank 1 - Sensor 1 - Passenger side "upstream" O2 sensor - located between the exhaust manifold and the cat converter. Do yourself a huge favor and purchase a replacement O2 sensor with the correct harness connection for your vehicle - stay away from the "generic" fitted o2 sensors.

P1646 - Passenger side - upstream O2 sensor (location listed above) - same sensor causing the P0031 and P0032 codes.

P1647 - Driver's side "upstream" O2 sensor (across from other troublesome O2 sensor - driver's side between exhaust manifold and cat converter) This sensor has issues as well and needs to be changed out.

Best bet, purchase "plug & play" or "direct fit" upstream O2 sensors - (same part #) and change both O2 sensors out - clear DTC's and you should be good.

If your on a budget - purchase 1 O2 sensor and change out the passenger side O2 sensor first. This should address the P0031, P0032 and P1646 codes.

If the P1647 code comes back after clearing the DTC's - then the other upstream sensor will need to be changed.

Return the "generic" O2 sensors you installed and get your $$$ back as they are clearly faulty.

Rockauto.com

DENSO Part # 2349030 OE Style
DENSO is the O.E. Manufacturer / Air Fuel Ratio Sensor; Upstream $94.90

Be sure to use the discount code for 5% off - Good Luck!

 

Ordered OEM style part....should be here in a few days. I'll post the results.

 

Well I installed the new upstream O2 sensor on passenger side upstream. It did clear out the 1646 code and it has not returned. I still have the 1647 code and now feel confident in ordering a second OEM style (Denso) O2 sensor for the drivers side upstream.
Just an update.....thought it might help others.

 

It's good to hear the proper factory O2 sensors are clearing up your problem. I had been reading about your "generic" replacements. Did you get them because they were cheaper?

I spend much time to make sure I get the correct parts.
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Good news indeed - let us know once the other O2 sensor is installed.

 

tbird6 - I would suspect the OP purchased "generic" due to cost savings but as we learned in this case - "penny wise...dollar foolish". I am not a fan of generic O2 sensors - too many variables...

Like you I also go the extra mile to track down the OEM part.

 

Yes, I definately installed the generic sensors for cost savings. I wanted to replace all 4 sensors at once and the high cost of OEM sensors prevented that.

I still have generic sensors downstream and they seem fine. But I would HIGHLY recommend using OEM sensors on the upstream side (at least).

Thanks to everyone for your time, knowledge and assistance!!!!

 

Seems like there are many problems with O2 sensors that are used on Jaguar products.....Also a pain to access and change

 

The engine will not be damaged from a faulty or failed O2 sensor.

You may or may not see a slight decrease if MPG. However, yours appear to be the heaters in the O2 sensor that has failed, so the impact will be only noticed during engine warm up. Clear the codes when the engine is hot and the faults will not show up again until the engine is started from a cool or cold start