With all the talk lately about engines begin destroyed when coolant leaks happen and the fragile nature of the overall coolant system in S-Types, I was wondering if anyone had and experience or thoughts about waterless coolants?

This is from another list I'm on
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar


I have started using Evans' waterless Coolant and I am a total believer. I put it in my Mini after a hose and radiator change, took it out on the highway, let it sit and idle till the auxiliary electric fan cycled and then shut it off.

I then did something NO sane person would do... I loosened the pressure cap and, contrary to what one expects, there was no rapid escape of pressure followed by "massive coolant vomiting". In fact I don't recall even a "piff" of pressure relief.

The point is that the boiling point of Evans waterless coolant is so much higher than that of water-based coolant that it doesn't build up pressure which contributes to seal leaks, weakens hoses, etc.

Because there is no water in the coolant, there is no free oxygen and hydrogen (the components of water) plus minerals, to promote electrolysis and corrosion of the dissimilar metals in the block, heads and pump and to attack the hoses.

Think back to the last time you opened a cooling system or let older air out of a tire... Remember the "rotten rubber" smell? That is the smell of oxidized rubber having been attacked by heat and the free oxygen in either water or the moisture in the air inside the tire.

Not only does the heat and oxygen attack the hoses from within, but the expansion pressure weakens hoses AND radiator seams too.

Evans coolant removes all those problems except heat... BUT, it also REDUCES heat because Evans is about 30-50% MORE efficient in transferring heat which turns a vintage British car cooling system into one that acts like it was engineered properly in the first place AND allows one to install a higher temperature thermostat which actually enhances the performance and fuel mileage of an internal combustion liquid cooled engine, which just isn't possible with coolant that has a 212 F boiling point that must be compensated for by allowing pressure to build to up to 18psi. to prevent coolant boiling.

The "kicker" is that Evans coolant is truly "permanent". In fact, over the road truck fleets rotationally transfer coolant from retired trucks into new ones with no ill effects. Truly an unheard of economy of "investment".

I liken Evans waterless coolant to using silicone brake fluid for cars that do a lot of "sitting". All National Guard military vehicles specify silicone brake fluids for this very reason. I converted my DB5 to DOT 5 silicone brake fluid almost 40 years ago and still ZERO hydraulics failure or wear or typical corrosion around metal reservoir caps, fittings etc.

Chemistry marches on and it's NOT wrong to abandon the old and take advantage of those advances to improve and preserve our vehicles.

 

It would be brave to try it. If you do, let us know after a year or so what happened - sooner if it all goes wrong!

BTW, Do not use DOT 5. Rather worrying the statement about DOT 5 as if it's OK to use it without serious research.

 

Do a search using Evans coolant here. You'll see quite a few posts (with me on my usual soapbox ) relating why these waterless coolants solve nothing and create a few problems of their own.

Contrary to what is related below and elsewhere, waterless coolants, essentially pure glycol, expand at more or less the same rate as water or conventional coolant. To state that this means that there is no pressure in the cooling system as a result is incorrect.

The writer also has his fact backwards about heat transfer. Waterless coolant is far less efficient is heat transfer than water or conventional coolant.

 

I'm running evans coolant in my other car, but it's a bit of a race-car and has an electric water pump, with reverse flow cooling system, surge tank, and more...

Not sure if I would run it on a relatively stock STR...

 

Yes I see Evans in Race cars but don't think it's needed for the street.
Might take a look at the price because it's not cheap!

Don't use DOT 5 on anything except collector cars that don't get much use. Bad mushy brake pedal with DOT 5 as it’s very hard to get all the tiny air bubbles out of the fluid. Since it does not absorb moisture the collector car guys like it for that. Plus no paint damage.

If you want to use a newer brake fluid try DOT 5.1 it is not a Silicone based fluid. Has the highest boiling point.
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I use a Poly organic type antifreeze it works really good.

 

The brake fluid in our cars never comes close to the boiling point of DOT 3 or 4, there's no benefit in spending extra on DOT5.1

 

Is that different in any meaningful way from the proper OAT specified for our cars?

 

Yes it is POAT

http://www.clearchoiceantifreeze.com...eze/index.html

here is link to what it is and were to get it both my jaguar use it and my Ford expedition does to. Alot of the newer cars are going this.

 

All the brake plus shop use this product.

 

Gee, so exciting. May as well use the OE stuff as it's good for 10 years.

 

Which usually means there's a higher profit margin in the product.

 

Yes you can use OE at $30 A gallon I think but any how it's a $7 or 8 gallons for this stuff it's 50/50 way better then OE.

I just say the Brake plus shops use this to top off or do a system flush. You don't have to go there just to get it.

A lot of auto shops use this stuff there are very few shops that use OE to top off any system out there.

 

I work there and I know way to much about antifreeze/ coolant. I'll give you guys a few gallons to try it. But you have to pick it up are I can meet you somewhere.

 

I pay about $4 per gallon for OEM quality coolant at Walmart, so your product is twice as expensive. Thank you for the free offer, but if I were to fill the system with it, how/when would I see any signs that it's better than other products?

 

$4 at Wal-Mart 100% you are not getting OEM product all shops use different vendors and none carry OEM product especially jaguar brand. This shop / corporate company will buy the cheapest product to make money not lose . All shops buy a universal good antifreeze from $4-$8 gal for 50% then up sale to you . If u think about y sell Prestone antifreeze at Wal-Mart for $10 a gallon at 50%

Only the dealer will use OEM....

I can tell you it's OEM 2 lol. The same company that makes Wal-Mart washer fluid also makes the Napa brand and many more and they all sell it for different price.

And yes you can tell the difference it runs your car cooler also if you have a leak anywhere it Will tell you it leaves a white residue on it were it dried out.

 

There is only a few different types of antifreeze out.

But a lot of colors for different manufacturers.

 

OE coolant leaves an obvious trace if there's a leak, too.

You're flogging a dead horse with this weird unnecessary coolant.

 

I do like the idea of no pressure in the coolant system, but I don't like the price, which is about double. If I were to use Evans coolant:

Will that mean that the entire engine compartment is going to be at least 10 Deg. hotter? What will that do for IAT's?

Will that mean that the temp. gauge will be stuck at max instead of being stuck at normal?

Will that mean that coolant hoses will degrade twice as quickly because of the increased temperature of ~ 10 degree C.?

 

I'm just making a suggestion not telling anybody what to put in there car.

Hope everyone has a good day.