2005 S-Type 3.0L


Cold both sides with cold selected, but when heat selected, heat on RHS (pax) and cold on LHS (LHD).


Renewed DCCV with Motorcraft Replacement


Now, on initial start - Full heat selected - as coolant begins to warm up, I get warm air out RHS, still cold on LHS. When coolant temp reaches about 158 deg F, I start to get hot air from both sides. (Whew! Water valve solved it, CCM must be ok) Or so I thought.


Took it for a post-maint. check ride. Adjusted climate control to 69 F both sides. RHS started cooling off, but LHS remained hot. Shut off climate control, completed another 2 miles and stopped to top up with petrol. Restarted and turned climate control to "Auto" with 69F setpoint. RHS started cooling down nicely. LHS remained full hot.


This is as far as you need read to help me troubleshoot, but I feel like typing on, while I cogitate on the problem, so here is as Paul Harvey may say, "The REST of the Story"
__________________________________________________ _____________
Sunday afternoon, nearly evening:
Wife: "I've got a low coolant light....but the coolant's fine! That's the guage on the left, isn't it?"
"Yes dear (points for knowing the car has gauges, more points for looking at them, and bonus points for having some idea what parameters are related!) except the guage is coolant TEMP, it being in the middle is goodness but is not necessarily that reliable. Low level means you've lost some...I'll check it out."


Up on the ramps and off with the undertray...I find pink stains all over the DCCV, just as I expected. But, remembering my saga a coupla years ago with the 03, decide better to run it awhile and see some actual drops just to be certain. Dread set in as I saw a couple drops fall from somewhere forward of the DCCV - sure enough, the radiator is seeping at the side-tank seal, low, on the RHS. (perfect position to blow back on the WV at speed to deflect blame to it - Just like the 03.)


So I call Motorcarman and ask if he can procure a radiator for me? On the way, so I set about flushing the coolant with distilled water as we bought the car in 09 and I've not renewed the coolant. Drain what will come out through the radiator drain-**** on the LHS. Loosen bleed screw and top up reservoir. Button-up and run the engine up to operating temp. with climate control set to Hi. Shutdown, lather, rinse repeat. So I continued this loop until I'd dispensed 6 gal of distilled water through the system and was getting reasonably clear runoff. It was during this event that I determined I was getting hot air on the RHS but not the LHS. There had been no squeal nor complaint from the wife. Naturally she's been running it in cold-mode all summer.


Over the next several days I removed various bits from the car and ordered various and sundry coolant hoses including the plastic manifold (Upper Rad hose assy - I think they call it) the one Jaguar make out of dried oatmeal. Of course I ordered a DCCV, not only because as far as I know it was still sporting the original one, but also in hopes it would solve the mismatched temp issue.


Swung by Motorcarman's shop and picked up the radiator the dealership had sent out to him about mid-week. By the following Sat morning I finally had the leaky radiator out of the car and laid it on the table alongside the new one to see what parts I needed to transfer. Noted a significant problem: One of the upper condenser mount clips that are molded into the side-tanks was broken off the new radiator. Called Motorcarman. He advised a few mins later that the dealer had another one...but it was locked in an off-site warehouse that they couldn't open on Saturday. So I set about identifying other coolant hoses to change that I hadn't thought of earlier to change and packaged up the new condenser for return to Motorcarman. Returned to him on Monday evening after work and by 4am Tue morning, the dealership's elves had come exchanged a new one for it. So I swung by after work Tue and picked it up.


Didn't have much time to devote to it during the rest of the week but got it all back together this morning and now presented with the opposite problem of before I took it apart. Only worse! Any thoughts? (I could believe I swapped the hoses on the DCCV except I took pictures and compared to them when re-assembling...AND I had the same problem as before when I first put it back together (no heat driver's side) until it got to about operating temperature...then it started heating on driver's side. Also, prior to the maint, neither side was hot all the time with cold selected..)

 

Snap! I've got exactly the same thing in the same place.

It's going to be couple of weeks until I can get to it so I'm still researching suppliers, so far Gaudin is coming out best on price.

Did you lose much transmission fluid during the switch?

 

No, not enough to matter. Or let me say it this way, did the daughter's 03 in late 2012, haven't messed with the transmission since then and everything's still fine! That was about 105K mi and she's over 130k now. I'll go out there and fill the xmsn cooler on the old one with water and measure how much it takes. I would imagine it is full with no air bubbles just prior to disconnecting the lines, but that may not be true.



FWIW, in retrospect....certainly if I were driving the car, I would continue driving it with the leak until I had all my parts in house and do the change at one time. A little dodgy to let the wife run it that way - even though all her trips fairly short - she doesn't understand the systems, nor monitor temps with OBDII as I do, only the gauges on the dash.....

On the 03, radiator failed in 2012 at about 105000 mi. The 05, in 2014 at 103000 mi. I see a pattern here........

 

Hmmm I'm at close to 103,000 you could be right about the pattern.

 

Ok Norri, I don't have a graduated cylinder handy, but did a number of trials with a graduated pitcher I had for mixing 2 cycle dirt-bike gas. I laid the radiator out on its face, xmsn cooler ports pointing skyward, leveled it up with some scrap wood blocks and I reckon the cooler holds 4-5 fl oz. when topped up from o-ring land to o-ring land. I capped the lines with some little vinyl caps I had lying around. If I lost anything out of the lines it wasn't more than a couple of drops per. I think you might lose enough to be significant if you leave them open and don't tie them up, let 'em hang down toward the floor - but you wouldn't do that....


Sounds like it might be more mileage-driven than age, then? Good extra data point. Both mine were 9 yrs and just over 100k. Now you've got 11 yrs and near as makes no difference the same mileage....


Anyone know if the climate control module has a burned trace as some have reported...can you see it via visual inspection?

 

More Info (and more confusion)
I checked the connector at the water valve. Middle wire (yellow) has +Vbat with key on.
Climate control Hi, Lo, off. doesn't matter.
Brn/Wht wire is grounded either Hi or Lo (I did get a momentary open-circuit when I walked 'round and set the climate control to LO from Hi and returned to the meter, but after 10=15 sec it went back to ground.
Brn/Grn wire is not(grounded.) Either Hi or Lo it is always infinite resistance to ground.
Both brown wires are open circuit (not grounded) with Climate control "off"


By my reckoning, I should have one side always hot, and the other side always cold. But I don't; RHS follows the climate control setting.


Update: I'm persuaded that the CCM has a fried trace or two. I've confirmed that the DCCV that I removed is stuck closed on the driver's side. So my current working thesis is that the valve stuck closed on the driver's side, burning the corresponding ground trace; all transparent to the lovely wife motoring about FL and TX with "Lo" selected. (Auto a/c is wasted on her, as are the various settings on the cooktop burners between OFF and HI) So once I replaced the watervalve. I'm not going to worry any further over the fact that the passenger side seems to be grounded constantly according to my meter - as they say a test result is worth a thousand expert opinions - and on last drive, Pax side worked 4.0. I'm going to pull the CCM tomorrow and have a look.

 

Pulled the CCM and found a dark trace:

Checked it with a meter and confirmed it was open-circuit.
I had a lot going on this afternoon and totally forgot to snap an "After" pic. before I reinstalled the board to the housing. Here's the best I could do:



Buttoned it all back up. Reinstalled the reservoir, plugged in and bolted down the DCCV. Everything working as it should, now.

 

Check out the link (below) regarding doing this repair. From my research you might need a fuseable link to stop the occurrence of a future CCM burnout.

http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/news...t-to-see-this/

I am in the process of eliminating issues with hot/ cold side climate control issues as well and was put off by this. I believe you can put a fuse between the DCCV and CCM. This has been done on the forum. I think a search for heater valve might deliver this information. Good luck.

The following link shows a fried CCM from a wire repair


Curious to know what damage to the CCM board looks like? See an actual photo here! - JaguarClimateControl.com

 

Good point, Paul. Shouldn't be too much bother to put an inline fuse in the yellow wire (+Vbat) going to the valve...

 

That was a LOT of work, have to admire the way you (appeared to) keep your cool as the bad news escalated!

I'm sure you know that JaguarClimateControl.com say that the CCM burns out because of a design flaw which they have fixed, so the CCM that they supply does not have a burnout problem.

 

In retrospect, isn't this circuit protected by the 10A fuse common to the a/c clutch?
Seems to me more mods involved in the Jaguar Climate Control example than just a wire repair...... maybe they replaced the 10A with a paper clip?

 

No need for protecting the RCCM or CCM unless the DCCV goes out again and you don't change it.

The boards are burnt from running with a bad DCCV for months on end. Yes it was a design problem and the board should have had circuit protection from the factory but it did not.
.
.
.