2005 3.0 Rear Tie Rod and Sway Bar Links Replacement W/Pics FAQ
#41
The following 2 users liked this post by neilr:
Jumpin' Jag Flash (09-23-2016),
Panthro (10-01-2016)
#43
I've been running my custom toe rods on my STR for a year and a half and last week I took a look at them to see how they are holding up. Other than a thin film of road dust, they still look brand new. (7000 miles)
On the other hand, I replaced the sway bar links at the same time with E-bay cheap Chinese links, and their boots are already split and half rotted away. They show show signs of rust on the welds. I suppose I need to find better quality rubber covers before the grease dries up.
On the other hand, I replaced the sway bar links at the same time with E-bay cheap Chinese links, and their boots are already split and half rotted away. They show show signs of rust on the welds. I suppose I need to find better quality rubber covers before the grease dries up.
Regarding your inner bushings on your tie rods, did you use rubber or Urethane, if so where did you find them?
the outer looks to be a heim in the pic.
Thanks for your help
#45
My inner tie rod are standard 2002-2011 Corvette mated to a custom fabricated tie rod tubes. Outer are an off the shelf heim joint. Sub frame mount holes are drilled out slightly to fit the larger Corvette tie rod shaft.
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solidaxel (02-08-2017)
#46
Mannn you guys are killin' me. I can't win, almost every thread like this, I put an approximate time and I receive flak for not allowing for seized bolts either publicly or via PMs.
In this case the seized bolt/nut vehicles could become a PIA, unless of course you are lucky enough to own a set of torches.
stars and bars baby
In this case the seized bolt/nut vehicles could become a PIA, unless of course you are lucky enough to own a set of torches.
stars and bars baby
Last edited by davidladewig; 02-08-2017 at 09:44 AM.
#47
#48
It is a fairly well known German component manufacturer and their quality seems a cut above the usual aftermarket stuff. They have an HD range of uprated components aimed at replacing those components that normally fail early, like S-Type front drop links
Online catalogue - MEYLE
Online catalogue - MEYLE
Last edited by neilr; 02-09-2017 at 03:46 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Jumpin' Jag Flash (08-04-2017)
#49
#51
#52
The following users liked this post:
joycesjag (08-17-2020)
#53
#54
This was a very useful thread - I have just had to replace the left tie bar on my car to get it through the MoT.
I thought I would add my tuppence worth, firstly the 7/8mm hex on the end of the anti-roll bar links (AKA sway bar for you USA types !) and tie bar respectively are way too small - they shear very easily on the anti-roll bar links, as I just found out. The latter will be attacked later with a nut cracker or grinder !
But to make it easier to fit the new tie bar I came up with a way of presetting the length before fitting it to the car - it was very high tech and was not cheap though.... (see the pics). it does assume that the original tie bar length was ok in the first place !
I know it is a really complex concept so if you have any questions........ :0)
Edit: I have bought some die nuts to chase the thread that is visible to try and clean up the rusty parts to make the nuts easier to get off - hopefully doing this will reduce the tendency for the nuts to tighten up to the point of having to back up to avoid it actually seizing completely. Hopefully this will make the remaining anti-roll bar links and RHS tie bar come off a lot more easily.
This view gives a better view of the general idea
I thought I would add my tuppence worth, firstly the 7/8mm hex on the end of the anti-roll bar links (AKA sway bar for you USA types !) and tie bar respectively are way too small - they shear very easily on the anti-roll bar links, as I just found out. The latter will be attacked later with a nut cracker or grinder !
But to make it easier to fit the new tie bar I came up with a way of presetting the length before fitting it to the car - it was very high tech and was not cheap though.... (see the pics). it does assume that the original tie bar length was ok in the first place !
I know it is a really complex concept so if you have any questions........ :0)
Edit: I have bought some die nuts to chase the thread that is visible to try and clean up the rusty parts to make the nuts easier to get off - hopefully doing this will reduce the tendency for the nuts to tighten up to the point of having to back up to avoid it actually seizing completely. Hopefully this will make the remaining anti-roll bar links and RHS tie bar come off a lot more easily.
This view gives a better view of the general idea
Last edited by graham-r; 11-23-2020 at 06:44 AM.
The following users liked this post:
kr98664 (11-22-2020)
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