Hi All, newbie here

Have experienced intermittent issues with Transmission Fault MIL over the last two years. It has become increasingly worse recently and now won't allow emissions testing. Initial code signaled shift position sensor - replaced/cable was stretched - replaced. Still shows same code, although I'm not altogether convinced this indie specialist has correct diagnostics to clear coding and run IDS as instructed by Jag. Still throws same code and is increasingly worse lately. Can't even go a mile once warmed up without car going into limp mode. I've read different forums and thread after thread, and was convinced it was TCM. I read one person had their fluid/filter/seals changed and problem went away. Indie specialist I've been going to says only way to fix is to replace valve body, that Jag knew of issues here. and would not/will not take accountability.

I'm starting to get the feeling I need to start a class action suit. Anyone gone/going through this?

 

The car is more than ten years old, and the ZF 6HP26 transmission is pretty good. You're wasting your time and money with a class-action lawsuit....

Car mileage? Transmission fluid change history? Battery status?

These ZF 6HP26 units must have drain-and-fills done on them to stay alive. "Sealed for life" is eventually a tranny-killer if you take it as gospel. Changing the ATF is a tedious and precise procedure so if you opt to DIY, study the many threads here that instruct you on how to do it properly. And make certain that you select an appropriate ATF before you do the job....

 

Hi Jon. Yes, I completely get that it may be a waste of time, but even newer models are having similar issues that Jaguar will not cop to/ammend. At wit's end. It's my wife's car, second one actually, and it drives/rides beautifully. I'm just tired of all the nickel-and-dime to death issues with these things, and this one is well beyond nickel-and-dime.

It's the same model as yours it seems, 3.0 auto, 96K miles, new battery, no known history on trans although indie specialist said fluid "looks" fine. I've been in the automotive industry for 30 years, never had these kinds of issues with American or Japanese autos, first three Euros I buy have countless issues (2 Jags, 1 BMW). Definitely won't be working on this thing myself, most I'll do anymore is install accessories, change air filter, etc., my "dirty-days" are long gone ;O)

 

That trans is in dozens of major brand cars, with about the same reliability. You're seeing just the ones people post about. I see no hope at all for what you propose (10yr old trans, no maintenance, hey what would anyone expect to happen to some of them?) but good luck.

 

The codes would be a big help.

Are you sure the fluid level is correct?
You mention service but has it been done to your car?
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Hi Marka,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums. It's great to have you with us.

I echo tbird6: please post the complete codes stored in your car's modules and all the knowledgeable owners and mechanics here will be happy to assist.

I must say, based on what you've reported so far, I am not much impressed with the advice you've received from your independent mechanic. Is he possibly out of his depths here?

Also, since we're a friendly group, when you get a chance please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum and post an introduction so we can give you a proper welcome. (sorry, I know that's the last of your worries right now, but I have to get my moderator duties out of the way).

We'll look forward to reviewing your codes with you to see if they reveal any helpful clues.

Cheers,

Don

 

I think you should start a class action against your indie. There's no known issue with the valve body of any significant frequency.

 

Sorry for delay all, too much work...

@tbird6 - Funny the P0705 went away after this indie replaced shift position sensor and cable, but has returned along with P1000. Every once in a while it throws O2 sensor codes, but they go away on their own once the car cools. There's no rhyme or reason as to when it lights up MIL and goes into Restricted Performance mode - sometimes coasting to a stop at a signal, sometimes going 76mph on the highway, most often taking a sweeping right hand on-ramp without keeping RPMs above 1,400. I'm sure the fluid/filter/seals/sleeve have not been changed. I can't say this indie knows how to check fluid level, although he says he checked it and that the fluid looks fine and level is good. I have my doubts.

@Don B - I absolutely will check in with intro, but have to get to bed for the night :O)

If anyone knows of a good indie specialist in Orange County, SoCal, I am ALL ears ;O)

Good night, All!

 

I'd suggest that the first step is to find another garage, then have the fluid changed following the correct procedure.

 

+1 Find a better shop

Or DIY - start with watching fuel trims.

 

A couple of things.

The O2 sensor problems do not go away. They indicate a problem that comes and goes. You need to get it fixed as multiple problems really complicate any troubleshooting.

This is reinforced by the restricted performance problem. That's the car trying to protect itself against further damage.

Ignore P1000. This code only indicates that the memory has been cleared and your readiness monitors have not reset. This code will turn to P1111 when they are set and the P1000 will disappear. Just don't get the car smog checked with a P1000 because it will fail.

Can you explain the shift indicator sensor replacement? I don't know where or what that is? Was the shifter in the car replaced?

Codes are very important so be sure and get the exact number.

Here is a thread about P0705 and it points to shift cable alignment or shifter problems inside the car.

Transmission Range Sensor : Fault no. P0705

We need more info (CODES)!
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I have been noticing that when I am caught in stop and go traffic, I get a "Transmission Fault" message on the dash. My 2005 STR (78K miles) has done this twice on me, so far. When this happens, the transmission refuses to change gears automatically. The first time it happened, I had to drive 20 MPH and the trans refused to shift. Got to my destination (late) and waited 8 hours before I started the car again. All was well, no "Transmission Fault" message didn't show itself until I was in stop and go traffic, again (4 days later).


I have to mention, after the first time it happened, I took my feline to tan indie and he scanned the vehicle for codes. No codes were present. I explained the situation to him and he suggested that the trans most likely "over-heated" and or the fluid level was low and or the fluid needed to be changed.


Fast forward to the second time this happened. I made it home with "Transmission Fault" message displayed. Went to park the car and get into my truck. Moved the truck and put the STR in the truck's place. Started the STR and noticed that the message left the display screen. This was approximately5 minutes after I parked the car. Drove the car, instead of the truck and all is well. Vehicle shifts normally and feels like it should.


I'm not very trusting of the car right now. This sucks because I really enjoy driving the STR.

 

Get the fluid changed and checked. It will tear up the transmission operating it low on fluid. Right now you have no idea. With 78K miles you need it now.

Have you got under the car? The sleeve is a common leak and you likely have this.
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Haven't notice any leaks on the ground, thus far. But I haven't physically looked at the transmission, with the car up or anything either.

 

Sure it's not just a failing battery? As they get old they cause weird faults.

I sure hope you've checked the 2 trans shifter bolts.

 

I will inspect and tighten the trans shifter bolts. Hadn't thought about the battery as the culprit. Looking into the trans fluid service right now.

 

i run a 2001 s type and would guess that your indie hasnt checked the fluid properly as i does sound like he is out of his depth. the boxes do need to be serviced as stated but they dont have too many issues but buy yourself an oem11 reader from ebay you can get a perfectly serviceable one for around £40 i did this and it always helps to have up to date codes plus you can clear them off to check which ones reappear

 

OP, does this problem happen when it's raining or after a car wash?

If so, it may be you need to pack your TPS and MAF connectors with dielectric grease.

 

He's long gone.

 

Maybe too much work again???