Air Conditioning blowing hot and cold
#21
05-29-2009, 01:18 PM
OK - just got the Jag back from the Dealer - they installed a Climate Control Module. Will continue to watch to make sure it works ok and post if I have any problems. Just for those of you who might be interested in cost, etc:
1 XR840134 Module - Air Con..................$1,191.45
Labor............................................. .............142.29
Sales Tax............................................... .......99.78
Total Cost.............................................. .$1,433.52
I am very glad I took out an extended warranty with 5StarWarranty.com when I purchased the Jag - it paid the total cost today - I have a 4 year, 100,000 miles, ZERO deductible warranty. To date, the warranty has paid within $100.00 of the premium I paid - and I have 15 months/28,000 miles left on it. Just posting info in case anyone else has the Climate Control Module problem - or are considering whether or not to purchase an extended warranty.
1 XR840134 Module - Air Con..................$1,191.45
Labor............................................. .............142.29
Sales Tax............................................... .......99.78
Total Cost.............................................. .$1,433.52
I am very glad I took out an extended warranty with 5StarWarranty.com when I purchased the Jag - it paid the total cost today - I have a 4 year, 100,000 miles, ZERO deductible warranty. To date, the warranty has paid within $100.00 of the premium I paid - and I have 15 months/28,000 miles left on it. Just posting info in case anyone else has the Climate Control Module problem - or are considering whether or not to purchase an extended warranty.
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (09-10-2013)
#22
05-30-2009, 12:11 AM
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Hi there
First, make sure you have enough freon for this DUAL AC. If low on charge, it will blow hot air one side and other side blow cold.
Next should check EVAPORATOR SENSOR. have 2 sensors, one driver side, one for passenger side. You can ohm both sensor and compare, then compare with spec.
It happened for me one time, it really easy, under the dash, both side of center console, don;t need pull dash.
Let me know
First, make sure you have enough freon for this DUAL AC. If low on charge, it will blow hot air one side and other side blow cold.
Next should check EVAPORATOR SENSOR. have 2 sensors, one driver side, one for passenger side. You can ohm both sensor and compare, then compare with spec.
It happened for me one time, it really easy, under the dash, both side of center console, don;t need pull dash.
Let me know
#23
06-22-2009, 11:27 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Balancr
Hi there
First, make sure you have enough freon for this DUAL AC. If low on charge, it will blow hot air one side and other side blow cold.
Next should check EVAPORATOR SENSOR. have 2 sensors, one driver side, one for passenger side. You can ohm both sensor and compare, then compare with spec.
It happened for me one time, it really easy, under the dash, both side of center console, don;t need pull dash.
Let me know
First, make sure you have enough freon for this DUAL AC. If low on charge, it will blow hot air one side and other side blow cold.
Next should check EVAPORATOR SENSOR. have 2 sensors, one driver side, one for passenger side. You can ohm both sensor and compare, then compare with spec.
It happened for me one time, it really easy, under the dash, both side of center console, don;t need pull dash.
Let me know
There is one sensor in small vent just above ign switch on my 03, 3.0 S type.
I have been trying to find cause of this hot cold problem for months. Going to HI and LO gives hot and cold as it should and restarting after 30 sec is also temp fix (sometimes). I have come to conclusion it is a sensor problem - just where to find the sensor?
#24
06-22-2009, 11:32 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
A/C control Module
OK - just got the Jag back from the Dealer - they installed a Climate Control Module. Will continue to watch to make sure it works ok and post if I have any problems. Just for those of you who might be interested in cost, etc:
1 XR840134 Module - Air Con..................$1,191.45
Labor............................................. .............142.29
Sales Tax............................................... .......99.78
Total Cost.............................................. .$1,433.52
I am very glad I took out an extended warranty with 5StarWarranty.com when I purchased the Jag - it paid the total cost today - I have a 4 year, 100,000 miles, ZERO deductible warranty. To date, the warranty has paid within $100.00 of the premium I paid - and I have 15 months/28,000 miles left on it. Just posting info in case anyone else has the Climate Control Module problem - or are considering whether or not to purchase an extended warranty.
1 XR840134 Module - Air Con..................$1,191.45
Labor............................................. .............142.29
Sales Tax............................................... .......99.78
Total Cost.............................................. .$1,433.52
I am very glad I took out an extended warranty with 5StarWarranty.com when I purchased the Jag - it paid the total cost today - I have a 4 year, 100,000 miles, ZERO deductible warranty. To date, the warranty has paid within $100.00 of the premium I paid - and I have 15 months/28,000 miles left on it. Just posting info in case anyone else has the Climate Control Module problem - or are considering whether or not to purchase an extended warranty.
#25
06-22-2009, 01:11 PM
OK - sorry for the confusion. After Dealer installed Climate Control Module, I had hot air problem again. I took it back to them and they did the following:
"Found evap temp sensor was stuck reading one temp and would not fluctuate with temperature demand. Replaced evap temp sensor.
1 - XR83729 Sensor-Evaporator."
They did not charge me for this, since they had mis-diagnosed the problem earlier and charged me and the Warranty Company for that. BTW, this took approximately 1 hour labor - at least that is what is shown on the invoice. I hope this helps to explain, Balancr. So far, two weeks after making this repair, I have not had the hot air problem again.
"Found evap temp sensor was stuck reading one temp and would not fluctuate with temperature demand. Replaced evap temp sensor.
1 - XR83729 Sensor-Evaporator."
They did not charge me for this, since they had mis-diagnosed the problem earlier and charged me and the Warranty Company for that. BTW, this took approximately 1 hour labor - at least that is what is shown on the invoice. I hope this helps to explain, Balancr. So far, two weeks after making this repair, I have not had the hot air problem again.
Last edited by JohnBurns; 06-22-2009 at 01:13 PM.
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (09-10-2013),
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#26
06-23-2009, 06:59 AM
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Posts: n/a
Air hot and cold
John,
Thanks for that very helpful postscript.
All my testing points to a sensor problem and another post mentioned the evap sensor.
Maybe we are close to a solution.
My last visit to a Jag dealer resulted in a quote for $1,500 of work and I tracked it down to a $50 oxygen sensor. Your story sounds similar.
Balancr.
Thanks for that very helpful postscript.
All my testing points to a sensor problem and another post mentioned the evap sensor.
Maybe we are close to a solution.
My last visit to a Jag dealer resulted in a quote for $1,500 of work and I tracked it down to a $50 oxygen sensor. Your story sounds similar.
Balancr.
#27
06-19-2010, 08:30 PM
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This is most likely the DCCV (Dual Climate Control Valve). The same as a Lincoln LS (very common and I have changed it on our 2003 LS). It's on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Right next to the radiator and down a bit. Has 3 or 4 hoses going to it and an electrical plug. The solenoids start leaking internally and get corroded and stick. Sometimes running the temperature all the way up to 90 and then back down to 60 will force the system to cycle the DCCV and it might start working properly again for a short time. But it won't stay that way and you must replace it. The DCCV should be about $100-$140. Not too bad to change out. A bit hard to see until you know what your looking at. You need to change your coolant and the thermostat also. You have to partially drain the coolant to change the valve so it's not much extra work. Not servicing the coolant is the major cause of this problem. Although it does seem to happen based on age of the DCCV too. USE THE PROPER COOLANT AS RECOMMENDED BY JAGUAR!!!!!!DO NOT USE ANY "UNIVERSAL" TYPE COOLANT!!!!
Now if you get heat at high speeds but it stops when the engine is at idle. Then the problem is the AUX coolant pump which is mounted directly underneath the DCCV.
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Now if you get heat at high speeds but it stops when the engine is at idle. Then the problem is the AUX coolant pump which is mounted directly underneath the DCCV.
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#28
06-22-2010, 03:55 PM
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Well, the job is pretty easy if you know what to do! First, if you have Nav, the module is behind the glovebox. The glovebox comes out with a few screws and then the module is right behind it. It should have two connectors plugged into it that run back behind the radio/nav screen. If you don't have nav, its the top unit above the cd player and phone pad controls in the center. It has all the climate control buttons on it. To get his out, you have to remove the center trim and then just take out the whole unit. It's only got 4 screws holding it in. Then unscrew the top part (which is the climate control module) and there you go! It's actually quite easy. Now, for replacement parts it depends on which one you have. The module for the non nav system is pretty easy to come by (I actually have an extra one sitting around!) and easy to replace. The one for the nav system is easy to replace too, but harder to find. When I changed mine out, it was plug and play, no dealer programming required. Now, the non nav units aren't that expensive. I think I got the one I have sitting around for about $100. The ones for the nav system (remote climate control module, RCCM) are a little more expensive, IF the guy who is selling it knows what it is! I got mine for $85 because the wrecker I got it from didn't know what it was, just thought it was some little insignificant control module. They can get pricey, as all the other ones I could manage to find were about $500. But, if you don't have nav, don't worry about it! I bet I could change one of these out in about 15 min now, really simple job you should be able to do it. If someone sees something I'm missing or got wrong feel free to correct me!
#29
06-23-2010, 06:08 AM
Veteran Member
Get your compressor evaluated before you spend any additional money on parts. Ours started to go out in mid-May but didn't become truly noticeable until the 95 degree summer weather arrived. It would cool just fine when temps were in the 70s, struggle in the 80s, and forget about any cooling in the 90s. I haven't had a compressor fail in 25 years, but this one was definitely on its way out....
#30
06-23-2010, 06:34 AM
Veteran Member
Jon, were you able to get a look at your old compressor? I had mentioned back a month or so ago that Joyces Jag had a light green oil film on the bottom of the compressor.
Yesterday I was driving it around town and the AC blows cold when moving but warms up at idle. I know 2 things: 1) the system is low on refridgerant (most common cause of above) and 2) the system must of had this small leak since we purchased the vehicle in Feb. of 2009, but is the first time that the above happened. I am suspecting a compromised compressor. Since there is no signs of the greenish oil anywhere else.
Yesterday I was driving it around town and the AC blows cold when moving but warms up at idle. I know 2 things: 1) the system is low on refridgerant (most common cause of above) and 2) the system must of had this small leak since we purchased the vehicle in Feb. of 2009, but is the first time that the above happened. I am suspecting a compromised compressor. Since there is no signs of the greenish oil anywhere else.
#31
06-23-2010, 06:54 AM
Veteran Member
Rick,
When I removed the undertray prior to taking the vehicle in for compressor replacement, I eyeballed the original compressor very carefully looking for signs of the green dye placed in the compressor oil for leak traces. I didn't see any, nor did any green stains show up when I wiped that unit down with a clean white paper napkin. These units can fail in different ways - they can leak, as yours appears to be doing, or they can begin to suffer from scroll piston failure, as ours did. Bearings wear out and they begin to lose effectiveness....
Our original compressor sounded normal when the engine was running at idle and the A/C was on full blast. But when I put my mechanic's stethoscope on the casing and listened, that thing sounded like a cement mixer full of gravel. That was the last straw that convinced me that our problem had been properly diagnosed and I had to bite the bullet and replace the compressor. Until then, I was not convinced that our compressor was indeed the issue since you just don't read about these components failing like you do with the DCCV. So after I got over my shock, I had the compressor replaced and the car has been blowing arctic air in these 98-degree days ever since, just like it did last summer....
Drop your undertray, listen to your compressor with a stethoscope, and let me know if it sounds like that infamous cement mixer....
The S-Type and the Lincoln LS use the exact same compressor for the 2005 model year so if you source your own parts and can find a reputable A/C shop that will install them for you and do the 134a recharge (I couldn't find a shop here in Raleigh willing to do that), you may be able to save some serious money. Rockauto.com had the best deal I could find. If you need the part numbers, I may still have them....
When I removed the undertray prior to taking the vehicle in for compressor replacement, I eyeballed the original compressor very carefully looking for signs of the green dye placed in the compressor oil for leak traces. I didn't see any, nor did any green stains show up when I wiped that unit down with a clean white paper napkin. These units can fail in different ways - they can leak, as yours appears to be doing, or they can begin to suffer from scroll piston failure, as ours did. Bearings wear out and they begin to lose effectiveness....
Our original compressor sounded normal when the engine was running at idle and the A/C was on full blast. But when I put my mechanic's stethoscope on the casing and listened, that thing sounded like a cement mixer full of gravel. That was the last straw that convinced me that our problem had been properly diagnosed and I had to bite the bullet and replace the compressor. Until then, I was not convinced that our compressor was indeed the issue since you just don't read about these components failing like you do with the DCCV. So after I got over my shock, I had the compressor replaced and the car has been blowing arctic air in these 98-degree days ever since, just like it did last summer....
Drop your undertray, listen to your compressor with a stethoscope, and let me know if it sounds like that infamous cement mixer....
The S-Type and the Lincoln LS use the exact same compressor for the 2005 model year so if you source your own parts and can find a reputable A/C shop that will install them for you and do the 134a recharge (I couldn't find a shop here in Raleigh willing to do that), you may be able to save some serious money. Rockauto.com had the best deal I could find. If you need the part numbers, I may still have them....
Last edited by Jon89; 06-23-2010 at 07:14 AM.
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (09-10-2013),
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#32
06-23-2010, 07:15 AM
Veteran Member
#33
06-23-2010, 07:21 AM
Veteran Member
#34
06-23-2010, 07:24 AM
Veteran Member
#35
06-23-2010, 09:07 AM
Veteran Member
Rick, I had a hunch that you might decide to go with Mobil 1 ATF when you felt it was finally time to pull the trigger on that leaking O-ring sleeve. I would probably be willing to take the same risk at this point with our S-Type. Keep us posted on how much of your original fluid you are able to drain out of your system and how the Mobil 1 ATF works for you. Are you also planning on any ATF additives or are you going to stick with 100% Mobil 1?
I still wonder if the Castrol Multi-Import Vehicle ATF product may be a decent choice as well. Castrol lists it as completely meeting the Shell M1375.4 specs that the 6-speed ZF requires, it is probably the most reasonably-priced of all the ATF options that I am aware of, and it is readily available from multiple sources in our neck of the woods. If I had to drain our factory fill of ZF Fluid right now, Mobil 1 and Castrol are probably the two ATFs that I would choose between....
I still wonder if the Castrol Multi-Import Vehicle ATF product may be a decent choice as well. Castrol lists it as completely meeting the Shell M1375.4 specs that the 6-speed ZF requires, it is probably the most reasonably-priced of all the ATF options that I am aware of, and it is readily available from multiple sources in our neck of the woods. If I had to drain our factory fill of ZF Fluid right now, Mobil 1 and Castrol are probably the two ATFs that I would choose between....
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stevestoy (12-31-2013)
#36
06-23-2010, 09:23 AM
Wilsmith:
No changing the coolant will not fix your problem. But using the wrong stuff will lead to other problems in the future.
Also the climate control modules have been repaired. There is a wire trace that burns up and you can replace it. Try some searches to see if you can find the procedure. No one to my knowledge has repaired the remote climate control module. This is used on cars with NAV.
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No changing the coolant will not fix your problem. But using the wrong stuff will lead to other problems in the future.
Also the climate control modules have been repaired. There is a wire trace that burns up and you can replace it. Try some searches to see if you can find the procedure. No one to my knowledge has repaired the remote climate control module. This is used on cars with NAV.
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#37
07-01-2010, 04:30 PM
Junior Member
http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/
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#38
07-13-2010, 05:50 PM
Junior Member
I have the same problem since two years and it's repair.
Now it's repair, the problem was the AC Control Module failure, this piece order to close the trap of the DCCV on both side left and right side, the problem is only one side receitp the command to close the right side.
My mecano cancel the dual climate control and now i have a standard climate , the passenger side could change the temperature but it's not in fuction, he fix the two electrical cables to one side only (the side who accept the command of the AC control Module), and everythig is Ok .
I have cold air in the four air dispaly in the car ,
WOW very good now.
Now it's repair, the problem was the AC Control Module failure, this piece order to close the trap of the DCCV on both side left and right side, the problem is only one side receitp the command to close the right side.
My mecano cancel the dual climate control and now i have a standard climate , the passenger side could change the temperature but it's not in fuction, he fix the two electrical cables to one side only (the side who accept the command of the AC control Module), and everythig is Ok .
I have cold air in the four air dispaly in the car ,
WOW very good now.
#39
07-13-2010, 08:01 PM
. Getting out of the car was a bit of a shock though.
#40
07-14-2010, 02:06 AM
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I'll see how it looks and sounds at the next oilchange.
