engine swap 2001 jag S type 4.0 v8
#1
engine swap 2001 jag S type 4.0 v8
Hopeing to swap replacement 4.0 long block this weekend, I need some advice, since i purchased a used engine. and after i swap out is it a good idea to do a engine flush ? i have a guy tell me over fill with auto transmission fluid and some other product (?risilone?) and let idle for 1-2 hours , then drain. Or should i just fill crankcase with oil and run for a while then change out ?? I also was told to use the red anifreeze not the green ?? any other advise would be very much apprecited.
Wifeover heated original engine,jumped time and got very Hot. This was a cheaper replacement than a overhaul. plus im hoping to do this myself. I did get onupdated chain tensors and 6month warrante.
Wifeover heated original engine,jumped time and got very Hot. This was a cheaper replacement than a overhaul. plus im hoping to do this myself. I did get onupdated chain tensors and 6month warrante.
#2
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#4
#5
RE: engine swap 2001 jag S type 4.0 v8
I believe i shoud have proof read before sending my questions on the S type engine swap , this was 2 issues question , 1st was using the ATF fluid for a engine oil flush then drain. Thenuse normal oil and new filter.
2nd question was in regard to the radiator system , ive had a Range Rover guy tell me to not use the green radiator fluid , to use the orange / red type, just courious if this is true ?? Any other things you maint guys can provide as heads up would be greatly apprecieted, thx
2nd question was in regard to the radiator system , ive had a Range Rover guy tell me to not use the green radiator fluid , to use the orange / red type, just courious if this is true ?? Any other things you maint guys can provide as heads up would be greatly apprecieted, thx
#6
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#8
You'll be better off spending the $3000.00 on a V8.
If you out in a six first you'll need the computer swapped out as well (pricey), I believe the front suspension is different (built for the more weighty V8), exhaust, etc....
#9
Engine Flush
Amsoil makes an engine crankcase flush that they recommend to flush
petroleum based oil from the engine before changing to synthetic, but it
would be good to use even if you want to continue using petroleum based
oil - http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2763.pdf You can buy it online at AMSOIL.com.
If you want to use synthetic oil, I resommend Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30 or other weight if you prefer, AMSOIL - Signature Series 100% Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil (AZO)
This is an extended drain service oil up to 25,000 miles in normal service or
15,000 miles in severe service. Amsoil - First in Synthetics and exceeds other motor oil tests. AMSOIL - Comparative Motor Oil Testing
petroleum based oil from the engine before changing to synthetic, but it
would be good to use even if you want to continue using petroleum based
oil - http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2763.pdf You can buy it online at AMSOIL.com.
If you want to use synthetic oil, I resommend Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30 or other weight if you prefer, AMSOIL - Signature Series 100% Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil (AZO)
This is an extended drain service oil up to 25,000 miles in normal service or
15,000 miles in severe service. Amsoil - First in Synthetics and exceeds other motor oil tests. AMSOIL - Comparative Motor Oil Testing
#10
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Diane, as Joyce's said, converting from an 8 to a 6 would cost a fortune in getting all the ancillaries change over also. You'd be throwing good money after bad, far more than the difference in price between a 6 and an 8. If the rest of the car is in decent shape, 3K for a rebuilt engine makes good financial sense to me.
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