Free Suspension Parts
#1
Free Suspension Parts
I have some parts to give to anyone who can use them. Brand New.
These are Rear Tie Rods. I ordered them and when I went to install them, they were about 3/4 of an inch too long. My mistake. They do NOT fit a 2000 model. I did bolt them on to see if they would make it, but they don't and someone else may be able to use them. I can't send them back so no worries and I have replaced them with correct new ones.
The correct model fit is 2001-2008 S types.
They came from AM Parts. The AM part number is AM4086464028. The manufacturer part number is 1ASTE22547.
If anyone could use a new set of these tie rods, let me know and I'll send them to you.
These are Rear Tie Rods. I ordered them and when I went to install them, they were about 3/4 of an inch too long. My mistake. They do NOT fit a 2000 model. I did bolt them on to see if they would make it, but they don't and someone else may be able to use them. I can't send them back so no worries and I have replaced them with correct new ones.
The correct model fit is 2001-2008 S types.
They came from AM Parts. The AM part number is AM4086464028. The manufacturer part number is 1ASTE22547.
If anyone could use a new set of these tie rods, let me know and I'll send them to you.
Last edited by davidladewig; 02-14-2017 at 11:01 PM.
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Datsports (02-16-2017)
#4
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#6
The key is measuring as has been shown before. Measure the old rod from end of the stud to the center of the mounting sleeve where the bolt goes. Be sure the stud and sleeve are NOT crooked. The measurement should be exact. Close won't do. Do one side at a time and your alignment will not change. I checked each rod 3 times before I put them on. Wala....alignment good and no rotted rubber. Success. PS: I bought a lifetime alignment thing from firestone so I get it checked whenever I want to. Good plan.
#7
I'm very sure. You can't even use the tightening nut with these, so I looked up what I bought and it was clearly marked 2001-2008..NO 2000. Now that I've installed the correct ones, it is obvious as to the difference. The 2000 rods are made backwards of the later rods. It took longer to jack the car, put the stands under it and get out the tools than to install them. If you use your floor jack to raise or lower just the suspension, they go right on. One bolt and a nut for each side.
The key is measuring as has been shown before. Measure the old rod from end of the stud to the center of the mounting sleeve where the bolt goes. Be sure the stud and sleeve are NOT crooked. The measurement should be exact. Close won't do. Do one side at a time and your alignment will not change. I checked each rod 3 times before I put them on. Wala....alignment good and no rotted rubber. Success. PS: I bought a lifetime alignment thing from firestone so I get it checked whenever I want to. Good plan.
The key is measuring as has been shown before. Measure the old rod from end of the stud to the center of the mounting sleeve where the bolt goes. Be sure the stud and sleeve are NOT crooked. The measurement should be exact. Close won't do. Do one side at a time and your alignment will not change. I checked each rod 3 times before I put them on. Wala....alignment good and no rotted rubber. Success. PS: I bought a lifetime alignment thing from firestone so I get it checked whenever I want to. Good plan.
After I stopped laughing I told him it's a Ford in Jaguar clothing, gave him the specs and had it realigned within 25 mins...
Mine were a bear to get in. Both nuts were rusted and I had to cut both studs out with a hack saw... Glad I'm never doing that again!
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#8
How funny. I have a lifetime alignment plan from firestone too. I bring it every 6mos... They hate it! One mgr told me they should've never sold it to me as it's an exotic car and they need a European specialist.
After I stopped laughing I told him it's a Ford in Jaguar clothing, gave him the specs and had it realigned within 25 mins...
Mine were a bear to get in. Both nuts were rusted and I had to cut both studs out with a hack saw... Glad I'm never doing that again!
After I stopped laughing I told him it's a Ford in Jaguar clothing, gave him the specs and had it realigned within 25 mins...
Mine were a bear to get in. Both nuts were rusted and I had to cut both studs out with a hack saw... Glad I'm never doing that again!
They don't make money doing it over and over, do they?
I sprayed PB Blaster on all the old parts and they came right off, but I live in the south and all that rust I see on photos here, I don't have.
I sent the mismatched parts to New Zealand today. Datsports was first in line. I hope they work on his car. If they don't, I know how to make them work.
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Datsports (02-16-2017)
#9
Well I am 2 days late!
I bought the same rods, and yes there were 3/4" too long to get them in the same location as the old ones.
Here is what I did to solve the problem
take the rods apart like you show and cut 3/4 to 1" from each piece
Screw them back together and get your measurment within 1/16" and you still have enough thread to toe/in or tow out
I took total length with the car sitting on the ground
I guess I will find out next week when I have it alinged
I bought the same rods, and yes there were 3/4" too long to get them in the same location as the old ones.
Here is what I did to solve the problem
take the rods apart like you show and cut 3/4 to 1" from each piece
Screw them back together and get your measurment within 1/16" and you still have enough thread to toe/in or tow out
I took total length with the car sitting on the ground
I guess I will find out next week when I have it alinged
#10
Well I am 2 days late!
I bought the same rods, and yes there were 3/4" too long to get them in the same location as the old ones.
Here is what I did to solve the problem
take the rods apart like you show and cut 3/4 to 1" from each piece
Screw them back together and get your measurment within 1/16" and you still have enough thread to toe/in or tow out
I took total length with the car sitting on the ground
I guess I will find out next week when I have it alinged
I bought the same rods, and yes there were 3/4" too long to get them in the same location as the old ones.
Here is what I did to solve the problem
take the rods apart like you show and cut 3/4 to 1" from each piece
Screw them back together and get your measurment within 1/16" and you still have enough thread to toe/in or tow out
I took total length with the car sitting on the ground
I guess I will find out next week when I have it alinged
#11
#12
So by threading the inner rod you are just giving yourself more toe in adjustment?
I still have two threads of adjustment and the new rods are in the same location as the old ones I took off
If you do not cut the threaded rod it will bottom out before you reach final adjustment
I still have two threads of adjustment and the new rods are in the same location as the old ones I took off
If you do not cut the threaded rod it will bottom out before you reach final adjustment
My old ones weren't worn out , just the rubber that keeps them lubed.
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#17
Yes, they will clunk. The video posted here helped me a lot to find the clunks. I've gotten most of them out now. The rubber grease seals are worthless after a few years, but O'Reilly's Auto Parts here has some generic ones. I haven't tried them, but might go look at them to see if they would work.
#20
Well I am 2 days late!
I bought the same rods, and yes there were 3/4" too long to get them in the same location as the old ones.
Here is what I did to solve the problem
take the rods apart like you show and cut 3/4 to 1" from each piece
Screw them back together and get your measurment within 1/16" and you still have enough thread to toe/in or tow out
I took total length with the car sitting on the ground
I guess I will find out next week when I have it alinged
I bought the same rods, and yes there were 3/4" too long to get them in the same location as the old ones.
Here is what I did to solve the problem
take the rods apart like you show and cut 3/4 to 1" from each piece
Screw them back together and get your measurment within 1/16" and you still have enough thread to toe/in or tow out
I took total length with the car sitting on the ground
I guess I will find out next week when I have it alinged
He said there was still some lee way on the rods for more adjustment, so I am convinced the rods will work by removing 3/4 to 1 inch from inner and outer threaded part of the rods, with out threading the inner rod