Thanks for your reply.My hands were greasy so was telling my kid what to write and I guess his spelling needs some fine tunning.I'm done with the car so no need to send any info but wanted to respond to your comments about the dealers.I have seen many posts in this forum about how the dealership did this and that. Everyone has different experiences with dealers but I live in Orlando and there is one dealer and they are not helpfull!!they charge astronomical prices for parts!!!and have incorrectly solved problems while changing part after part and charging unbelievable labor cost.I didn't realize this forum was so sensitive about these dealers that are known nationwide to have the same problems as mentioned above and also about this line of cars that are known to be a mechanical nightmare and are terribly unreliable vehicals that have a bad reputation!!.To further my point I can not get $3000 for this car and it has only 69K miles on it plus the small dealers won't even take these cars in trade because of the experiences they have had in the past with them.If you are an administrator for this site,forget about the warning you can cancel my membership if you wish..oh and about your comment about posting..as a new member all we were able to do is reply to a thread not post a new question

 

Some dealers, and judging by comments a fairly small proportion, are as you say. I don't think (but see what an admin says) you'll be in trouble for sticking to comments if you make it clear you're not accusing all dealers of being the same. They definitely aren't. There are some good ones (all over the world). I believe they're ALL franchises, i.e. not actually owned by Jaguar. I wish jag themselves would police the bad franchises better than they appear to do.

 

Our local dealership (from whom we purchased our S-Type in December 2008) unquestionably gouges its customers on parts and service. They rarely acknowledge you when you walk in their door. I have spoken with their general manager about their policies, and he doesn't care because he is apparently able to run his operation that way with few complaints reaching his level. I have also reported their behavior to Jaguar Corporate USA. They sent me a $100 Jaguar gift certificate for my troubles. Did they investigate the local dealership as a result of my complaint? I doubt it. So I vote with my wallet and feet - I don't do business there any longer....

The next-closest dealership (70 miles away from me) is priced very fairly and always very friendly and helpful. Whenever I need parts that must come from a dealership, I take the time and effort to drive there. And I always tell them how much I appreciate their fine customer service. They always thank me for driving as far as I do and make my stay with them very pleasant....

Two very different models on how to treat your customers. Unfortunate, but true. And I have absolutely no qualms speaking poorly of the local dealership while praising the next-closest dealership. Just as it should be....

 

Do not lube the green orings. That green is a sealant coating and if you lube it it wont seal. Try getting those out after theyve been in the engine for awhile and youll see how well they seal. Wipe off the oil, slip em on and slide em in. Youre done
yes all dealers are differant, depends on who owns them and manages them. But dont even get me started on price markups. Auto dealers just dont compare to ac and heat. I bought a capacitor for my evap unit outside from a freinds wholesale account for $15 including tax. Its $75 retail before tax!
I assure that most dealer parts arent that high % markup over cost. (some small items yes, but nothing like that, and yes i see costs all day)

 

If you just joined you have to follow the newbie rules which you can read in forum stickies.

 

First I can relate to the air conditioner pricing. I'm in the window business, and we do have a high markup and you don't even want to know what the jewelry business is getting.

Brutal, Curious on your comment about not applying anything to the green O rings. First I am reading this suggestion not to do this. I did lube my green rings and so far no issues. I used a silicone based magic lube I put on all the rings for our pool and this seems to work great.
I did some research and the green rings are Dupont Vitron which from what I am reading denotes a better grade of material used in the manufacture of the ring then the blue or black in this case with better ability to hold up under the conditions it is subjected to. I am trying to find somewhere on the web anything in relation to not putting on the rings any type of lubricant and it being incorporated into the manufacture of the green rings and can't seem to find anything. Even went on the Dupont site where they go into great detail about their green o ring. Are you sure this is the case? The only thing I am finding is if lubricating, make sure it is a silicone based because any other materials will break down the materials used to make the ring.
Not looking to start an issue here because I have always valued and used your suggestions with great results, but are you sure the green is self lubricating?

 

its a personal observation in that the orings ive cleaned the oil off the intake and valve. Then installed dry have never leaked(neither do ones that oil wasnt wiped off the intake either though) the thing is that the dry one seal tighter than a...well you get the idea. And when taking these out you can see how the green sealant for lack of a better word has formed a bond between the ring and the intake and valve. I dont read all the info out there like some on the forums seem to find. I just relate personal experiance and observations. I do know that the green does not bond to the intake when lubed as ive pulled both type installs out later for differant reasons. There is a night and day differance between black, yellow and the green orings and their sealing ability long term. This is another reason why i recommend them from the dealer. Its just too small amount of money to not use them.

 

Thanks Brutal for the response. After questioning your observation I immediately thought I'm in trouble, I hope he does not get upset for asking and who am I to question one of the GODS on the site and I mean that in a very complimentary way. I have read most of your posts and everyone has helped me in various ways concerning my car for which I am very grateful. When I see posts from you and various others, I read them knowing I will probably get a good deal of info from them and that is usually the case. So thanks......

ps: did I kiss your behind enough here? I'm still laughing from the 5 quarts low thread and I know I should not, because it could happen to me but.....common engine light on, don't check, keep driving 5 quarts low?

Hope you have a sense of humor and know I am just kidding around with the ps: As you know by all the questions I have asked you in the past, you really are a great help on this site.

 

Please forgive me if this is a laughable question, but is this problem (and fix) the same for the 4.0?

I have stinky smells and smoke coming from my engine compartment and am willing to bet this is the issue. Stinky burnt oil smell is coming right in my vents!

Thanks in advance

 

Nope, no IMT O-rings on a 4.0.

Most common place for oil leaks which burn oil on the exhaust (and gets sucked in by the hvac through the cowl) is valve cover gaskets on the 4.0 - have a good look at them.

George

 

hi there, i'm a long time lurker of this site but this is my first ever post. have not earned the right to view pics yet but i am in dire need of help having codes p171 & p174 show up. i already have the orings needed to be replaced but i just want to be sure what the imt valves look like.

is there a chance that somebody can email or PM me a picture of it. thanks in advance.

 

I am also in the same boat! trying to get access to the good info and pics, doing my best to get my post quota in. 2004 STR

 

For the guys just starting out and I did the same thing. I would suggest you go into the location on the site you can add personal things and sign offs that will show on every post, and put in what year, engine and type of Jag you have so the senior members can have some answers for you. They help a great many people and they do not have the time to ask you for the specs on the car so if you list them as you see on other posts, you might get quicker responses. Good luck

 

THANK YOU

I'm going to get into it this weekend. Any ideas how much the parts are and estimated time to complete for a newbie to the motor but veteran to motor work?

 

Starvin, READ the first post to this thread, it answers all of your above questions.

 

This is very useful. I couldn't tell where the leak was coming from. The indicator was the burnt oil smell that would come through the vents. I couldn't tell if the leak was coming from the valve cover or the IMT. One way to know before you dismantle everything is to wipe your hand (while the engine is cool) along the bottom back seam of the IMT. You will come away with fresh oil. After wiping away the excess from the valve cover area, you can see that the oil is coming from above.

 

Yep, for those 3.0 owners who have not changed their IMT O-rings yet, you should wipe the bottom of the rear casing of the IMT units with a clean white paper towel or napkin every time you check your oil (which should be at least weekly, by the way). If you see oil spots, your factory IMT O-rings are leaking and they need to be changed to the new green-colored ones. Remember, it's not a question of if they will leak, it's a question of when they will leak. This is a $5 job if you do it yourself. Just bite the bullet and do it....

 

+1 (or +2 LOL). It's a fairly easy problem to fix and one of the few common faults for that engine in the S-Type.

 

Auto parts store has no clue. Where do I buy replacement o rings?