Have a 2002 S-type 3.0 with 65K miles (have been here since 2003/4 - board's been a wonderful resource). Want to replace the Upper Control Arm assembly - driver's side since the upper ball joint is shot. As per JTIS instructions are for RH and all it says is unbolt the two bolts holding it up and the ball joint. However, after undoing the bolts I see there is no room for them to slide out because they hit up against the spring coil.

I saw a post elsewhere that the spring/shocks have to be removed to install the Upper Control Arm. Is that the only way to get this replaced? Also do I need a spring compressor to get the spring out? I did try jacking up the lower control arm to compress the spring to see if I could some clearance for the bolts to slide out - didn't work. Any directions would be much appreciated.

P.S - followed directions for lower ball joint had no issues replacing that a) cut off stem b) took knuckle off car - used OTC tool - had very little clearance on upper receiver but with a bit of patience and realigning several times was able to get it out c) pressing new one in was a breeze. Was overly cautious because of all the warnings about damaging the AL knuckle.

 

You have to remove the coilover shock to get the bolts out for the arm, no spring compressor needed

 

Thanks - appreciate it. I should be able to take the coil/shock and the control arm out.

 

upper control arm are very hard to diagnosed wether fialed or not. You really need to unbolt the balljoint from the upright and see if the arm is still held rigidly or flops around from broken bushings since you cannot see them. Dont fully tighten the a arm bolts till the weight of the car is back on the ground or youll preload the bushing causing ppremature failure

 

Thanks for the tips. Received the control arm with bushings and ball joint from deutschepartsusa - seems like good quality and value. Have been driving around with the new lower ball joint and what a difference it makes. Don't think I need to replace the control arm just yet - will be replacing catalyst converter next given that I still have the persistent P0430 and then perhaps come back to upper control arm.

 

Sjgh, how did you determined that your lower ball joint needed replacement?

 

Well my car would creak like old springs god awful sound really loud and quite embarrassing when I turned the steering wheel at rest or slow speeds. Creaked when I got out of car. If I took the wheel off and turned the steering I heard no sound - with no weight on ball joint. I actually replaced the tie-rod/sway bar links/ sway bar bushing's first since they were easier to do. Was hoping it was the sway bar bushings (cheap parts) but the creaking didn't stop.

I used a Pittman arm puller for the tie rod end and a three arm pulley puller for the hub - those came off easy (also I had replaced the tie rod before). I cut the ball joint off after I unscrewed the nut most of the way with an angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel. Was a pain to get the upper ball joint nut off without damaging the ball joint itself (rubber boot was already in bad shape). Once I had knuckle out I cut the ball joint stem off completely and used the OTC C-clamp to push it out. Found it more difficult to remove the ball joint then press it in because the upper receiver couldn't sit very well. If I had to do it again would look to see if there is a larger Pittman arm puller that can fit over the knuckle end with the ball joint stem cut off - mine was not wide enough- sure that would work very well. Also before I forget - I used a second hydraulic jack that was very helpful in pushing up the lower control arm and helping reinsert the ball joint/tie rod without any hammering or force.

 

Sjgh,
Thanks for the detailed response. I think replacing the ball joint is on my near future agenda.

 

Here my dud lower ball joint seized and creaking and starting to wear the lower arm where the bolt was turning each time I steered.!!! Took 20 min to get it to the bench to replace. Paul

 

How much torque on the bolts. When I replaced my upper control arms I tightened them until the arm was stiff, then loosened until free. Should I go back and re-torque them?

Jack

 

Still won't get the free manual??
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I pressed the ball joint out using a 2 1/4 tube which had the inside diameter of 57 mm. It was thin wall so cleared the upright ok. Pushing in was easy using lube and a cut off socket for the length. All back together on road. Even remembered the red o ring for the ABS... rattle gun on the clamp made life quick and safe. Paul