Hey guys. I have been driving a 2005 s type v6 for the past year. It occasionally gets a friction groan and I'd like to see if anyone can help diagnose it from a description so I can point my mechanic in the right direction or decide if it's something that can be left alone.

It comes and goes but doesn't happen every day. When it happens I'm usually going about 60 km/h during a large radius turn (typically onto a highway). It doesn't happen or isn't noticeable at higher speeds. It has happened while going the same 60km/h but it is a rare occurrence and seems to be brought on by dampness. The problem stops after acceleration or braking if I break out of that 60km/h sweet spot. It occurs more when it's been raining or it's damp outside.

It sounds like a friction groan associated with a rotation of a shaft. It makes the sound for half a second and then quiets after the cam or whatever it is has passed the obstruction point. It will continue resonating on and off while the gas is held steady but disappears if you accelerate or decelerate.

It doesn't pull the car in any direction but it does interfere with propulsion as the car feels some resistance when the rubbing noise is occurring. I can feel it slightly in the gas pedal although it only causes a little vibration.

Another small issue I've got is one of my rear calipers is having an issue returning to its rest position. I've sprayed the line with some penetrating oil and that helps it a bit but doesn't cure it. The brakes were new when I purchased it and didn't make any noise. I recently had to replace a rear wheel bearing and the caliper started rubbing on that wheel immediately after. I read somewhere that if the piston may not have been retracted all the way when it was reinstalled it may cause some issues. This sounds like a likely cause but Id like to hear if anyone else had a similar experience with a rubbing caliper and what they did to fix it. I'm planning on disconnecting the battery later today and reset the parking brake to see if that'll help.

Lastly, does anyone else get an O2 leak sensor error after filling up the gas tank if they've been driving it under a quarter tank?

Thanks,
(Almost)NoLagInTheJag

 

Can't help with the first issue, but the second one with the brakes is confusing. Which line did you spray with penetrating oil? Not sure how a wheel could rub on a caliper. Did you mean a pad is rubbing on a rotor? If so, that's normal and not the source of the noise in question.

About your third issue, what codes are you getting?

 

I think I've narrowed the noise down to my front passenger wheel bearing. I just did my rear driver one which was pretty shot (the wheel had so much play I'm thankful it didn't fall right off). The sound happens mostly during long right turns and is amplified by the extra pressure of acceleration. I was listening to it closely last night when it occurred driving home and it sounds like it's from the passenger side.

The caliper isn't returning all the way to the free state position so I'm getting a slight squeak/whistle from that wheel from the pad rubbing. It's my rear driver's side. It just started occurring after switching the bearing out. I asked my guy if he made sure to retract the piston on the caliper all the way when reinstalling it and he said he did. I read somewhere on here that could be a possible cause.

The code is P0442. It's a small evaporative emission leak code. It mostly pops up after recent top ups but has shown up a few times in other situations.

 

There's some confusion somewhere. 'retracting' a piston is required during maintenance to make sure the pads are far enough apart to allow them to initially fit over the rotor but not so far apart that the pedal goes to the floor or the EPB gives an error code.

If the caliper pistons were not returning while driving, the brakes would go up in smoke in short order. You may have a partially seized caliper or EPB mechanism. Neither is corrected with an adjustment.


P0460 has nothing to do with 02 sensors.

 

Regarding your report of a "friction groan", way back in 2009 one of our former 2005 S-Type 3.0 owners here reported what he called a "rear end whine" at about 60 mph in his car. His fix was TSB 2050032, which was the replacement of his rear axle assembly and rear axle housing bushings (all taken care of under his warranty in May/June 2009 by his Jaguar dealership)....

As of about a year ago, the updated Jaguar action to effect this repair is supposedly done as JTB00053v2, but good luck getting any warranty assistance now. I would ask for it but not expect any sympathy from Jaguar....

 

I had a similar noise when turning on my 2005. After 15K miles I just got new front tires and it's completely gone.


Any chance it could be tires?
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This sounds like a brake/bearing problem. If you have a worn pad, you may not see how worn it is but when you turn and brake, you'll hear the metal to metal grind. Bearings "usually" make noise on straight rolls as well as a turn.

 

The pads are almost new. It has made the noise when going straight but it happens much more often when I'm turning to the right and accelerating into a turn. I'm almost positive it's the bearing. I'm going to get it checked out when I go get my oil pan gasket changed next week. It's a rough week for my paycheck. Hopefully no more large issues arise for a bit.

The tires are the originals I'm pretty sure but they're in good shape. Gotta get the bearing changed so they stay that way.

Are there any telltale signs for timing chain issues? I don't think I need a new one but I'm at 130k and I've got a year left on my drive train warranty so if I could get her done under warranty that'd be great.

 

Hey guys I've got a quick update. I'm pretty sure the sound is being caused by my torque converter. It's accompanied by fluctuating rpm's but doesn't seem to affect the speed despite the lurching. I'm not sure if the transmission fluid has ever been changed so I'm scheduling an appointment at a dealer.

What id like to know is has anyone had a tc issue and fixed it by changing their transmission fluid? Or is there a very good chance my tc is shot? Is it worth it to change the fluid if the tc is doomed anyways?

The rpm fluctuation starts out with a range of 250 and then gradually decreases as everything warms up so I'm hoping it's just a fluid issue. The fluctuation was small before but it's getting more prominent. It started out just on turns with a light foot on the pedal but now it's almost constant for the first little while of a drive.

Im not getting any error codes associated with anything significant. Just an annoying minor e vap leak.

I checked the lines for vacuum leak but didn't find any issues. I used some air intake cleaner and treated my gas with some fuel injection cleaner but it didn't seem to make a significant improvement.

 

Well change the fluid first for sure but no most of the time it requires a new TQ. The reason is the lock up clutch lining is failing and a fluid change can't fix that.

I say change the fluid because most people just drop the pan and swap fluids. This does not change all the oil and another pan drop which you should do when changing the TQ will get more of the old fluid changed out.

Yes you can swap the TQ without dropping the pan but you will need to add fluid anyway so try to get more fluid changed.

Let us know what happens after you change the fluid.

But your symptoms point pretty plainly to the TQ.
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The fluid is like $500 on its own right? Do you have any recommendations for an alternative to the oem stuff? Just wondering if I'll lose a good amount of the fluid if I drop everything twice.

Also, should I make all the changes suggested in this thread regarding the oil pan, connector sleeve and front seal? I just changed the oil pan gasket not long ago so I'd hate to change it if it's not necessary. Maybe I can just replace the filter?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...roblems-61560/

 

Make sure you digest the contents of this post.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...60/#post412061

There's issues other than the TC that will cause the hunting while cold.

 

Yeah, I was gonna suggest wheel bearing too....

with regard to tranny fluid -- I've recently switched to having AT fluid filtered clean (on my other vehicles) as it is said to be less intrusive on AT seals etc. Anyone have an opinion on this approach?

 

Sounds marginally better than nothing, but only marginally. It mainly degrades chemically so filtering will not help at all with that.

 

certainly the oil and chems do degrade. but the counter to that is the theory those renewed chems are responsible for premature seal deterioration, plus, the renewed oil viscosity theoretically can stress your TC etc..

FWIW I watch them filter the fluid and I see the particles etc collected in the filter sump they use. for those who haven't seen this, they insert a thin tubular pair of hoses into the tranny at the dipstick inlet and vacuum away for about 30 mins. one tube is the vacuum inlet, the other cycles the clean oil back into the tranny. they do have to top it off with new oil after they've finished filtering. about a quart, typically. I've been doing this for a few of my vehicles during the past 6 years and have good results -- no tranny leaks or poor performance etc.

JMO based on some experience. just thought I'd put it out there and see if anyone would respond. thx 4 the comments and I always look to your xlnt input here, JV8

 

Maybe start a new thread on the subject?

 

Our 3.0 S Type to date has 145,000 miles. The only noises that I had to address are the front struts, and the front wheel bearing assembly. The strut noise is easily identified by bouncing the car. The bearing sounded like tire noise, which eventually turned into a roar.

 

No the Lifeguard 6 fluid has come way down in price. I get it for $19/liter which is still high but not the $40-$60+ that it did sell for!

Don't forget an number of people have used other brands and not had problems so if money is real tight do some reading to find fluids that have worked for others.

No worry about your tensioners as that was just the early 4.0L V-8 from 1999-2002. The 6 cylinders don't have that problem.
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Hey guys I've got a post dealer inspection update. The mechanic said that they rarely get TQ problems on my year make & model. He says it's more likely to be an issue with the ignition coils. He said 3 are easy to access and the other three are in the intake manifold which take a bit of effort to get to. I found a video on YouTube that walks through the steps to get to the ones in the intake manifold but it didn't seem clear where the other ones are located. Could anyone point me in the right direction?

Also he said the sensor in the driver's seatbelt buckle is failing but mentioned that you could pry it open to adjust the sensor? Has anyone meddled with these before? I found a post on the forum detailing the steps to replace it but I was quoted $400 for a new buckle so I'd like to try playing with it first.

Lastly he says my suspension bushings are starting to crack so I should get my tie rods replaced. He said it's only a couple bolts and might be worth doing myself. If anyone has done work with these and has some valuable input, I'd like to hear from you.

That about sums up my current issues. I hope it helps someone who's concerned about their TQ in the future. Any helpful input would be appreciated but at this point I'm compiling more of a chore list than anything. Thanks for reading.

 

Car details????