Last night Joyces Jag sat out in 15 degree weather overnight. I just now tried to get it into the garage and I received a parking brake fault. I played with the lever the fault light went out but the brake remains stuck. I got it into the garage and have the heat on, I will see if that "unfreezes" it. Anyone else have this problem or solution?

 

Not seen it, I'm relieved currently to be able to say. There's a TSB about recalibrating the EPB so maybe try that? hmm, when you played with the lever, did you hear any sounds like the EPB motor was trying to operate?

Oh - did you check the fuse(s)?

Out of curiosity... how did you move it with the brake stuck on?

 

I didn't hear anything, the tunes were alittle loud at the time and I wasn't expecting problems, the car was fine when I pulled it out around 8 PM last night.

Haven't checked fuses yet, had to eat dinner and now I'll go F* with it.

Since it was only a few feet from garage I managed to punch it and it crept into its spot, garage now stinks pretty bad.

 

That's a heck of a punch!

 

hee heee yippers!!! I just floored it and she moved ever so slightly into its spot. all fuses check A-Okay.

 

When I operate my EPB I can clearly hear the motor running as it winds the cable. It's an STR with separate caliper (and Brembos, too) though, so I don't know if yours would normally make a similar noise. Does it have a similar motor and Bowden cable? I'd guess similar noise if so.

Not sure how often it would be wise to operate it time after time, as maybe the motor would overheat.

 

I clearly remember hearing the motor applying brake before this. Now with F*iddling with the EPB switch, (key in the II postion and with motor running the brake motor makes no sound(s).

 

Unless you can find real help another way, the best I can say is it appears to be a fairly typical handbrake with the hand part replaced by a motor controlled by the EPB control module.

The motor's exact location didn't seem that clear from JTIS. The module (on my car, at least) is behind the right hand boot trim, near but above the battery, just forward of the rear light cluster.

I'd hope there's proper overcurrent control such that the motor never burns out (and the module likewise). That's just normal good electronic design practice. However, people have reported having to replace the module so it's not certain.

Following the TSB I mentioned looks simple and might work. It doesn't look any more risky than what you've tried so far.

Otherwise, I'd take fuses out / disconnect battery, then disassemble the (non-electrical) cabling to try to get some slack. Maybe wind the piston in a bit if you have that kind (don't think you do). Then reassemble and see if once the motor can move the system sorts itself out.

I guess with some slack and a disabled EPB at least you could drive the car. You'd be missing a secondary safety feature (of arguably dubious worth but hey let's not go there) so you'd not want to do this other than to get to a repairer, I'd suggest.

You should be able to check the control module can drive (er, attempt to drive!) the motor. I can try to say how if you need help.

Someone previously posted (somewhere!) how to power the motor without using the module. I didn't like quite what they did as it appeared unfused but that aside it has to be on the list of things to try.

Be very careful any time your limbs are near the (non-electrical) cable any time the system is powered as I dread to think what the torques might do to (say) a finger.

 

SOLUTION low battery.
All very good points. Thank you for your inputs. After reading the manual it stated "If battery has been disconnected or discharged, the EPB will need to be reset". That made me think, so I put the ole charger on the battery and it registered low voltage. After sitting on trickle charge over night. Started the car this morning and reset EPB POOF the brake is working fine.
With all this talk about battery life recently, our factory battery lasted 5 years and 2 months. Our S rolled off the line in 12 of 2004.
Any recommendations for a replacement battery?

 

Good enough

Jag originals are said to be Varta, who seem to make good batteries, so if you can get one of suitable spec....

 

Rick,

These vented batteries are fairly expensive as you would imagine. I called around to some of the auto parts stores back in the autumn months in case I had to pull the trigger on a new battery during the winter months. The few replacement vented batteries I could find went for $100 to $130 and most had to be ordered (available the next day).

I posted a question here a few months ago asking the techs how long these vented batteries could be expected to last in a moderate climate like ours and never really received a clear answer. I wonder if your battery is simply struggling with the extreme cold in our neck of the woods right now and will recover once temperatures get back to the typical 30s and 40s.

If you decide to spring for a new battery, please keep us posted on what you select....

 

Jon, I was hoping you jump in. I remember you looking into battery replacement and no techs chimed in unfortunitly. I also thought about the unusual cold temps here and maybe the battery would recover, but since its Joyces car I think I will pull the trigger and avoid problems down the road.

 

Ok fellows picked up the Duralast from the zone $146.44 including core and tax. Perfect fit. 3 year free replacement, 8 year prorate.

 

JoycesJag:
Could you post the model of the battery you got?? I just went thru this on my wife’s 2003 Lincoln LS and the only correct battery was the factory Motorcraft battery for about $120.
I looked at the STR battery and it's very similar but it looks bigger? I have a 2005 STR and don't want to wait too long. It's still fine with the factory original battery right now!
.
.
.

 

here you go tbird. BTW the new battery is also serviceable, the screw caps come off to add water (Jeff inquired on that). I kept the postive cover and overflow tube (both white in pic) slid right into new battery. Oh and it is vented.
The picture of what matters did not come out so here goes:
Auto Zone- Duralast Gold
Part # H8-DLG
Cold Cranking- 760
Crank Amps @ 32 degrees- 950
Reserve Capacity 100
As mentioned earlier 3 year replacement, 8 year pro-rate
$146.44

Actual dimensions: 13 3/4" L x 6 3/4" W x 7 1/2" T

Anyone have a guess as what that white elecrical connector (left of Duralast bat.) goes to?

 

Parking brake motor...lol

 

The parking brake motor sits sideways just above the differential. The diffential actually has to be lowered to get it out. I climbed under my S and lubed the cables up with silicon lube before the weather got bad.

Regards:
Oldengineer

 

The connector may be the shipping one. Add a link to disable the car. Hint: don't.

Thanks for the good pics. Now I know what my battery should look like (but doesn't)!

 

Funny BlackCat very FUNNY

 

Rick,

Thanks for the details. With this spate of extended cold weather here in the southeastern U.S. during January and February, more than a few of these factory batteries from the 2004/2005 model years may be pushed beyond recovery.

Did you shop around and determine that the Duralast battery was your best choice or was this the only non-dealership option you were able to find in your area?

And once you replaced your battery, how much reprogramming was required to get the car features back to where you had them? I would expect to lose the radio pre-sets, but what about the seat memory, power windows, power moonroof, Bluetooth, etc.?