Thanks to "FactoryJagTech" and "Jag_Genius" -- I did this shifter adjustment
fix on my 2000 S-Type 3L and it worked perfect. For everyone's benefit, here
is a more detailed description of the process:
Since it is rear wheel drive this past winter I got stuck in some ice, so
I tried to rockback and forth by shifting back and forth...yeah, dumb,
I know now.
For whatever reason -- presumably shifter cable stretch --I soon
found that when I shifted to D/Drive it was still neutral. By nudging
the shifter towards 4th gear it would get into Drive. I drove that
way for several months, not wanting to work on the Jag during the
Following the great advice in thiswww.jaguarforums.com
to bea *very* easy fix -- 25 minutes.
1. Pull the emergency brake handle up as far as you can
2. Turn key ON but do not start engine
3. Step on brake in order to shift to Neutral
4. Grab front of center console -- one hand on either side of the
cigar lighter area -- and pull up
5. Ease the whole front of console up a few inches and disconnect
the cigar lighter wire
6. Pull the console up even higher, being careful not to scratch the
shifter knob, and reach in and disconnect the connectors on those
"traction" switches. There are little holes in the side of the
connector you have to depress -- like with a small screwdriver -- to
get theconnector to release.
7. Now you can ease the whole console up and over the shifter knob
and pivot it towards the passenger seat.
8. You will see a shifter cable assembly and two large brass looking
nuts -- I think each nut is 15/16" They pinch on a brass
bracket. IMPORTANT: There is a washer under one ofthe nuts,
and it has acouple little bent tangs that have to go into a slot
on thenon-movingbrassplate.Rotate the washeraroundwhen
the nuts are loose until the washer seatsinto the slot correctly.
9. Essentially, depending on whether the adjustment error is towards
the front or back, you have to figure out which way to adjust
the 2 nuts.
10. Not being too smart, and and being a risk taker, I first
adjusted my 2 nuts a couple turns to push the cable towards the front.
11. I started the car engine (leaving emergy brake pulled up) and
tried the shift mechanism. Nope --apparently I went in the
wrong direction because it was worse. No need to wrench them
together tight, just finger tight for the time being.
12. So I adjusted these nuts back and then towards the back
2 full turns (now -2 turns from the starting point). With the
engine still running (and stepping on brake to "hear/feel" when
I actually shifted, I found it was better but not perfect.
13. So, I tried 2 more full nut turns towards the back again, and
that turned out to be right. I verified all the shifting felt
right, and verified that the illumination of the P/R/N/D LEDs worked.
14. I put on lock-tite glue onto the nuts and tightened them up good.
15. With car still running, I again verifed proper shifting.
16. Shut car off, eased the console back over the shifter knob.
17. Reattach the "traction" switches, and the cigar lighter
18. Ease the console completely down and snapped it back into place.
It now works like a charm, and probably saved me $300USD or more
if an ignorant mechanic told me it needs a new transmission or something.
All you really must know is the concept of double nuts pinching a
plate in the middle moves the end of the cable as you work the nuts
ALSO -- my original probably is apparently different that some other
shifter / transmission problems I read about. i.e. sometimes a
plastic housing on the end of the shifter cable can shatter/crack and
sometimes you shift into a gear and for like 3 to 7 seconds it does not
engage. Those are diiferent issues than mine was.
That's the view from here -- questions welcome.
Live Free or Die New Hampshire