I noticed the fan, located behind the radiator, was no longer working last week when my car's temperature began to rise. The fan was working after I replaced the failed water pump this Spring - - - when I also replaced the DCCV, Thermostat, Radiator Cap, Idler Pulley and Surpentine belt. I am certain the fan was working after my work this Spring because I clearly remember hearing and seeing it turn on as I topped off the DEX coolant.

I have already checked the underhood fuse F13 (80 Amps) and it is fine. Does this fuse feed a relay to turn on the fans? If so, I do not see the relay listed in my manual? If so, what relay (RLY) number is it?

Any other ideas?

Thank you in advance for any assistance you are able to provide.

P.S.
I am dropping the belly pans tonight to see if any of the daisy chained harnesses worked loose.

 

I think the 80A fuse is F13 and there's also F38, a 10A. Can't recall the relay but try the wiring diags Jaguar electrical reference
Your car will be near enough the latest diagram there. If you want a fully up-to-date diagram then join jag's TOPIx (quite cheap) and download it.

 

jagv8

Thanks I tried that fuse too but forgot to mention it.

- I found a cooling fan control module here...
http://www.itprosondemand.com/jaguar...ec%20Guide.pdf but it looks like this is for the interior fan.

- Looking here too, Powertrain DTC Summaries – OBD II
Quick Reference Diagnostic at bottom of page 41
http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto..._OBD_II_R2.pdf

 

The fan module is shown on the diagrams. It's driven by the PCM using a PWM signal and is not really intelligent. Being PWM-driven you can't drive it yourself in any easy way. However, they fail very rarely so it's likely something else. (I guess you could disconnect the fan module and then drive the fans with your own feed but do so with care if you do.)

My feeling is that the PCM is choosing not to drive the fans and so you need to figure out why. Likely a bad sensor, misleading the PCM into thinking there is no need to turn on the fans. BTW mine hardly ever do turn on and don't appear to be faulty........

 

What coolant temp. should I be reading if all was working properly out of the OBDII port?

Still no luck finding the source of the problem for the fan not turning on. The voltage leading to the fan will be checked today with a VOM. Maybe the fan motor has simply gone bad?

I checked the OBDII port and noticed the temperature gauge does not work linearly. After searching a bit here I noticed that this is normal.

This is what I observed:
The gauge begins to register/move slightly above C (cold) at 150 F. Then at the center gauge position, it does not move at all from 180 to 230 F. I am not sure of the temperature at the H (hot) position because I turned on the heater and it stayed between 191 and 205 F as I was driving with the heat on high all the time. If I turned the heater off it'd heat right back up to 230+ and would have continued getting hotter but I did not let that happen.

Any suggestions?

 

Please try to focus your feedback on the heating problem and I'd like to focus on the other issue later; unless you feel they may be related.

I called Simon a technician at Manhattan Jaguar in Bethesda, MD today. This same technician performed a diagnostic on my 2005 STR (54K miles) during a Free 30 minute diagnostic check 5 weeks ago. Again, I want this thread to stay on topic but to provide all the details, the two issues I wanted looked into at that time were:

1) Coolant Leak
Smelled burning coolant but can't locate source of leak. Fan not working at this time
2) Misfire on cylinders 4, 6 and 8
Codes: PO300 (Multiple Miss Fire), PO304, PO306, PO308, P1314 (Manf Control Ignition Sys or Misfire). The engine goes into restricted performance mode for 5 to 15 seconds every time the engine is pushed to ~5500 rpm. When at 5500 rpm the engine sounds like a chattering noise, not like the spark plugs are misfiring. It may be that the fuel filter is clogged but that is only a guess on my part.

The technician found no coolant leaks and ran out of time trying to fix the orange marker lights on the front bumper that I had not noticed were not working. He took off both front wheels and wheel liners to access the wiring harnesses for the lights. New bulbs were installed but still no lights. He said the wiring harness may have been faulty or damaged and needed checked.

By this time the 30 minute free diagnostic time up. I was not charged for the bulbs and he also installed a few missing screws in the wheel liners at no charge. In all, he actually spent 50 minutes with me and my car. With the promotion I could then get the car washed, some coffee, donuts and 10% off the parts for the repair or service(s). I thanked him for his time and input but took a pass on the wash and at that time needed no parts since I still was not sure what was needed to fix the issues.

When speaking on the phone with Simon today I told him that the fan behind the radiator was no longer working and he said that if the fuses for the circuit are all okay that I may have a defective Cooling Control Module (CCM). I spoke with their parts department and the module comes as an assembly with a new shroud and fans for a total of $506+tax.

Now I am going to look at the wiring diagrams and see what I can do to make sure this is truly the source of the problem. At this time no voltage is being sent to the fan when the AC is turned on or when the engine temperature is at or above 220 F.

If I do need a CCM where can it be purchased by itself? All the following places said they did not have it or it was not listed on their parts section of their website: Dealership, Rock Auto, Advanced Auto Parts, Napa, Pep Boys. I saw on this forum CCM for sale but that was years ago. I have not checked the salvage yards yet or tried to cross to a Lincoln LS part number.

Thank you for any more assistance you can provide.

 

Burning coolant smell may help explain the problem or may be a separate failure such as DCCV. But escaping coolant may be preventing correct opeartion of something which in turn affects the fans.

The workshop manual is online for your car year so you can either consult that or hope that JTIS applies even though it's not for your car year. (My own car is covered by JTIS.)

It has values for all manner of things including when (& how) the fans are put on / normal ECT values.

It also has - many - detailed troubleshooting procedures.

I'm not clear whether the fuses and relay(s) for the fans have been checked / re-checked now.

If they're OK I'd next want to check whether the fans are being commanded on. Or to force them on. Both these can be done using jag's OBD tool (IDS).

If commanded on you can use a 'scope (remember, it's PWM) to see the signal at (i.e. coming out of) the PCM and presumably it won't be present at the fan module or if present then you'd go from there.

If all the parts of the a/c system are known OK, including HiLo switch etc then it may be that turning a/c on is enough but there are so many possible failures of the a/c system that this looks an unwise way to attempt it.

There have been a smallish number of cars with faulty wiring harnesses, typically behind the front bumper but sometimes behind the wheel well liner(s). Possibly this is what's wrong but you might prefer to meter the signal through first rather than tearing things apart.

I'd fix the misfires NOW i.e. FIRST. They sound like bad (incl contaminated) coils but it's possible they're not. Maybe wiring/connector (see above) and perhaps related to lost coolant. If so, I suspect you're looking for coolant issues high up and that could be the infamous hose (pipe) under the supercharger. (Read the very detailed threads on here if interested.)

 

- Trying to locate engine coolant leak and get fan working too -

Today the engine was run for five minutes between 1200 and 1500 rpm, with the heat on high (cycled AC on several times to exercise the DCCV) with the radiator cap off, while the car was sitting stationary on a upward slope. I saw no air bubbles escape the cooling system and did not have to add any coolant to keep the system full.

About 90 minutes later, per the technician's request, I removed the large coolant bleeder located under the supercharger cover, offset slightly to the passenger side, to make sure that:
a) the system had no film or build up which he said happens if the wrong coolant was ever added and not properly flushed out
b) to also determine if there was any air in that section of the coolant system.

Next, I completed a pressure test of the engine coolant system. The new radiator cap tested out fine but when I pressurized the rest of the engine coolant system, coolant began leaking from what looked to be the front of the engine block. Unfortunately, I still cannot see where the leak is.

The system held pressure with no leaks for about 5 minutes at the following pressure intervals (10 PSI, 15 PSI, 20 PSI) but began leaking below 25 PSI. From what I've read, the system should be able to hold 30 PSI.

To help me out, I purchased a small dental-type mirror with an extension and hope to squeeze it behind the expansion tank and hoses to locate exactly where the leak is tomorrow.

Any hints, suggestions or comments are welcome.

 

It could be from the thermostat assembly. Someone posted about it and included some pictures but it's quite a while ago so you may need to be persistent with Search!

It was in this forum so you might like to use Advanced Search and restrict it to this forum (on my browser the forums are listed towards bottom right - missing a scroll bar that should be there but you can scroll if you select an entry and use down/up arrow keys).

Another idea is to remove the entire air trunking that's above that part of the works. I'd do it with the air box cover attached as I understand that's easiest. (Er, can't really run the engine in that state but shouldn't need to.)

That's plenty of pressure to rule various things out as regards the fans.

If you don't want to fix the coolant leak maybe fit a reduced cap or just not tighten it? Brutal has said it's OK to run the cars without a tight cap - which would mean less psi than yours already copes with.

 

*IF* as in some other models, the "fan control relay module" is up behind the front part of the left wheel liner, perhaps the wiring was disturbed while Simon was fishing around in that area. Or, it may share the same grounding points that he might have worked on as part of the lamp problem.

 

I don't think it's there. I think it's mounted on the fans but have a look in JTIS.

 

Yes, it appears it is part of the assembly on the shroud behind the fans.

 

The radiator fan, along with the orange marker lights in the front bumper, were not working due to the wiring harness pulling away from the factory fastener on the passenger side of the fan shroud. Once this happened the wires came into light contact with the rotating belt severing a couple wires.
ACTION TAKEN: The severed wires were reattached, soldered and protected with two layers of heat-shrink. Additional wire ties were used to hold the harness so this will not happen again.

The coolant leak was caused by a weak (or sprung) factor hose clamp.
ACTION TAKEN: The clamp was replaced with a new clamp and now the engine coolant system holds 30 psi with no leak. I did recall (after finally locating the leak) that the clamp seemed 'weak' when it was reinstalled after the water pump replacement (etc...) this Spring.
NOTE: This is the first spring-type hose clamp I've seen fail in over 30 years of tinkering under the hood of automobiles.

Most all members on this forum are very helpful, friendly and respectful. Thanks for your help!

 

My radiator fan stopped working again! What a pain in the a$$!

I had the fan assembly and driving circuit tested by my local Jaguar dealer. Both the 80 amp and 10 amp fuses were fine, which I already knew. All wires to and from the fan driving circuit were fine too. They verified the the module (which is physically part of the fan and fan shroud assembly on my 2005 STR) was no longer operational. The fan will not operate at any speed.
Per the dealer, Jaguar no longer produces the original fan shroud assembly. They now have an updated fan shroud assembly(~$550) which requires a new wiring harness (~$35).
I will let you all know how this works out once the car is back on the road.

 

Ouch. Sorry to hear that. You can no doubt get a used one from a wrecker.

 

I called several salvage yards and nobody had the fan in stock. Brandywine Automotive (http://Brandywineparts.aiprx.Com/) said they could get a fan and have it the next day for $275. But from my experience, it typically takes 2-3 days before you receive "ordered" parts.

I need my car now so I had to bite the bullet and pay the dealer mark-up-cost.

Removal and installation of the fan assembly was still a pain even though I have done it many times now. I hate the way components like the DCCV etc... are mounted to the fan when they truly, engineering-wise, do not need to be.

 

After being on the road a lot yesterday, I can report that the engine has no sign of getting too warm. Air temperatures were only in the mid 80s so I'm looking forward to a couple days in the upper 90s to make 100% sure it remains to be a cool running cat.

 

Worst case is probably stop-go (especially stop) traffic, i.e. when car movement not forcing air through the radiators.

Over here an emissions test would probably do it - they rev the car mercililessly sometimes (to get cats hot). Yes, we only do tailpipe tests.

 

I would strongly recommend changing the thermostat...

 

As indicated in my initial post for this thread, a new factory temperature thermostat was installed this Spring along with several other items.

Recently I removed the stat and I'm currently performing an experiment. I will report all my findings over different driving conditions at various air temps once I have all the data.

Initial data indicates...