I believe that a noisy rear wheel bearing is a fairly common complaint - failure, on these cars. 2003 S-Type V8. Anyway mine was humming away, something like what a very noisy snow tire (?) might sound like. So not being sure of what was going on back there, I jacked the rear of the car off the ground, removed the wheels, and with the engine running, put the car in drive.
WOW! sounded like a real symphony, what a racket. I was sure the CV joints or the diff. was screwed. Anyway the next step was to remove the brake caliper and rotor, and guess what, just a rumble and vibration coming from the bearing hub. The brake rotor and backing plate can really reverberate and make a lot of noise, it can make you real nervous. Getting the hub off was a piece of cake. The rear tie-rod and balljoints are attached with bolts and nuts, unlike front-end units. Just unscrew them and they come apart. No special tools required. The axle nut is on tight and needs quite a bit of torque to remove, but a long pipe on a breaker bar got it loose. And I found an old tire iron jamed between the wheel studs and braced at the floor so the hub wouldn't turn got that sorted out. The JTIS calls for a hub puller to get it off the halfshaft, but a regular puller did the job just fine. The hub assembly came off really easily. I then ran to the local NAPA parts store where I got a bearing the same day. Then over to a machine shop to press out the old bearing and press in the new. Installation was a snap. The whole deal was a lot easier than I expected.
Cost for the bearing and a new circlip was about 80 bucks and the machine shop charged me $45. Total cost was $125.00 . I don't think that was too bad, and the job didn't require a degree in machanical engineering. I hope that this info. might help someone.

 

Great write up! Thank you for sharing...

 

Mine was the same way and sourced the parts from the same place.

 

Great post, thanks.
Although my babe is an X type, I also have a wheel bearing issue and got quoted NZ$600 for the part only! Where o where do you get $80 parts!! I'd like to know! I will have to import it from UK anyway so if the US provide a savvier option, I'm a taker!

 

I recently purchased a pair of used rear knuckles/hub that I am rebuilding for eventual installation on my S-type. When I tried to press out the hub from the bearing, the bearing separated and came apart such that the outer bearing cup was still stuck on the hub. I put a hub separator around the bearing cup and then tried to press it off. I was applying enough force that my press was starting to flex and the hub flange was starting to bow. I ended up taking a rotary cutter and cut the bearing cup most of the way through in several places around the cup. It pressed off on the next go. There was significant corrosion between the bearing and the hub. Not too difficult a job, but it did take about an hour to get it apart.

 

wow, would have loved to have seen some pics of both the OPs R&R process, and your siezed unit joe! So, you just bypassed the 'torch' method huh? LOL

 

The machine shop man said that the bearing took a lot of squeeze in the press to remove (steel bearing in an aluminium hub kind of welds itself in there after a few years). I don't think my small press would have done the job. I also don't think that 45 bucks tax-in to re. & re. was very much money.

 

Is this the same as a 2000 s-type? I had noticed the noise for a few weeks and was about to get it up in the air to see what was taking place.

 

Yes it is.

 

Good to know. I can now move in the right direction.

 

I am going to start a new post and ask some questions on the S-type hubs, bearings and axles. It is enough of a shift from this topic that I want to start a new thread.

It is called: S-type rear Hubs, bearings, axles and knuckles.

 

well my bearing was humming and i could feel one of the wheels going side to side like a snake €60 for bearing and €50 labour cant wait to see the outcome fingers crossed there isn't going to be nasty surprises. Well only an hour before i know the outcome :-)

 

any body tell me the size of the axle hub nut in mm please ?

 

Great post and descriptions. I have had that same noise like a loud snow tire around 50mph ever since I purchased the car and had one garage tell me the wheel bearings are OK. I am now getting a slight vibration in the gas peddle and seat around 70 mph. I am beyond the days when I would tackle jobs like this myself so it is time for a second opinion. Thanks again.

 

Revisiting this thread but no one responded to the size of the axle hub nut holding everything in. Can someone give that size out in MM which is probably what it is. Been a while and lost my computer stuff on our Jag so starting over again. Thanks

 

it's 36MM

 

Hi, started to work on replacing the bearing. Following the JTIS instructions and it states in order, to first detach lower arm from assembly which I did, then detach the hub assembly from the driveshaft. Will I need a puller for this? Not sure how to pull this away from the shaft. Does not want to seem to break free, and then after you break it free, you should remove the hub assembly by taking off that last nut shown in the picture.


Any thoughts on getting that hub assembly from the driveshaft. Thanks

 

Hi, you need a hub puller to separate the hub assembly from the drive shaft. I rented one from Advance Auto. Make sure you unbolt that last nut from the upper control per JTIS also, the rear tie rod from the hub assy and also unbolt the ABS sensor before attempting to pull the hub assy - otherwise, it won't break free. Also, make you secure the axle shaft after removing the hub knuckle assembly (with a shirt hanger) as it will hang low. Also, ensure you order a new axle nut as they are a one time use item. You will find the new axle nut is different in appearance than the original but grabs the axle shaft threads as you tighten it down to about 300 ft lbs!

 

Just go to the dealer for that nut or can I get it anywhere? Thanks 300 Ft pounds! Better go eat my spinach.

 

I purchased mine from SNG Barrett - I would think that the dealer (Jaguar or Ford) would have it... Of course using an impact wrench will accomplish the tightening "task" of the hub nut..