Hi everyone.

I am having problems with my 2000 s-type a/c. It only blows hot. I have been trying to pinpoint the problem for some time now. On some days, it will start off cool, but then gets hot. It blows hot from all vents except one is cooler than all the others. I have attempted to listen to hear if the blender door is working or not, but i cannot really tell. There is a light "rubbing sound" as if there is something moving or attempting to move behind the dash. The 3 heater lines that connect to the dccv are really hot as though the heater is on. Actually, all of the lines are hot.

I have already done the following:

1. The line connecting to the compressor was leaking and it has been replaced. The compressor and clutch are engaging

2. The system has been evacuated and recharged

3. I attempted to replace the dccv but i could not remove the bolts. However, i did d/c the lines that connect to the valve and the antifreeze flowed out. I reattached the lines and started the car, and the air was cold!. But the car begin to overheat because the antifreeze level was low. I replaced the antifreeze and the car runs fine and but now there is only hot air again.

***i feel that the dccv is the culprit, and today i am going to get wrench i need and replace it. I am also going to try and check the voltage to the connectors.


Does anyone have any other suggestions?

One more thing..... Is there a separate fan for the a/c system? Also, will having too much antifreeze in the car cause a problem with the A/C?

I apologize for being long winded.... I wanted to give as much information as i could.

Thanks

 

It sounds like you are on the right track, you may need to look at the module also but the valve will be the first step and the voltage check will show up any problem with the module.

 

Thanks norri.

Would you happen to know what readings i should get as far as the voltage? This is going to be my first time doing this. I hope the machine comes with instructions.

 

Have you seen this site DIY: Diagnose It Yourself - JaguarClimateControl.com lot's of good info.

 

Okay.....so i am back and still hot!
Yesterday, i changed the dccv. The air blew cold....for about five minutes, and then back comes the hot air again. This morning, i went back under the hood and d/c the heater hoses that connects to the dccv and let the antifreeze drain out of the valve, attached them back and tried the air again. It blew cold for about five minutes and then went hot. Ughhhhh. I don't know what else to do. I was going to check the voltage, but i don't know how to use the machine. Being skeptical that i may cause some other damage by doing so, i decided not to. I think i am done with this car. I am over it.

 

I would do the following:

Make sure your AC system is properly charged and your getting proper pressure readings on both the low and high sides vs. outside ambient temperature. If not, rectify.

When the AC is on - hit the outside temp button on the HVAC display to see what the outside temp sensor is showing. Make sure the ambient outside temperature is accurate. If the temperature reading is not accurate or low - change the exterior temperature sensor behind the front bumper.

Then I would check the interior sensors inside the vehicle to ensure they are not dirty. I believe there are 3 interior sensors. One is right underneath the steering wheel. These get dirty over time. If they are dirty - clean them.

You may need to test the resistance of each sensor to ensure all are working correctly.

Honestly, if the above checks out - it sounds like your blend door may be the culprit, may be stuck allowing the hot air from the heater core to overcome the cool air from the AC and is a bear to get to and replace. (entire dashboard needs to be taken out)

There is only one fan and when the AC is turned on the fan runs on high speed.

Hope the above helps.

 

I am thinking of putting a bypass/manual shut off valve in the radiator hose that is the flows directly into the DCCV to prevent the coolant from flowing through to the heater core. Has anyone ever done this?

My thinking is that if the AC works when the hose is clamped off, then if the valve will close it off and my issue will be solved.

Please let me know your thoughts......Thanks

 

OK.

SO THE A/C HAS BEEN FIXED! AFTER REPLACING THE HOSE AND CLIMATE CONTROL VALVE, I DECIDED TO TAKE A CHANCE; GO AHEAD AND REPLACE THE CCM. I FOUND ONE ON EBAY FOR ONLY $32 BUCKS! I WAS PRAYING TO THE HEAVENS THE WHOLE TIME THAT IT WOULD FIX IT. AND IF NOT, I COULD HAVE RETURNED IT, BUT STILL WOULD HAVE BEEN WITHOUT A/C.

MY BIGGEST CONCERN WAS IF THE CCM IS BAD, DID IT DESTROY MY NEW DCCV THAT WAS JUST PUT IN; AND IF THE DCCV IS NOW TOASTED, IF I PUT THE REPLACEMENT CCM IN PLACE, WOULD IT DAMAGE IT.

WELL THE CCM ARRIVES AND I REMOVE THE ONE FROM THE CAR AND REPLACED THEM. I STARTED THE CAR AND HESITATED TO TURN ON THE A/C.....AS SOON AS I TURNED IT ON COLD AIR IMMEDIATELY BEGIN TO BLOW COLD AND HARD! YASSSSSS! I DID IT!

ONE DAY, I PLAN TO SIT AND TAKE THE OLD CCM AND DCCV APART AND GET A LOOK INSIDE TO SEE ITS COMPONENTS AND HOW IT WORKS. IF I SEE ANYTHING THAT LOOKS OUT OF THE NORM, I WILL POST PICKS.

THANKS GUYS FOR ALL OF YOUR INPUT AND SUGGESTIONS.


NOW ON TO THE NEXT ISSUE AT HAND.....ONE STEP AT A TIME

 

Thanks for the update!

 

The CCM is well documented on this forum many times. It is probably the first place (with DCCV) that needs attention. They fail together usually.

You will find a burnt trace once you open it up.

Lots of instruction on the forum on how to repair the trace.