s type cc valve
#1
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Great Harwood, Lancashire, UK
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s type cc valve
Hello
This is my first post, I'm a retired lecturer living in Northern England and have had STypes since 2007. I now have 2 2000 3.0 S Types, one is a scrapper on the drive for parts. It had a new CC valve fitted not long before the car became US due to gear box failure and I would like to fit the now removed CC Valve to the identical s type with faulty CC Valve. The valve is now OFF the car but I would like to know it is still working BEFORE I fit it to the replacement S Type.
Is there a way to test it?
Cheers
Michael
This is my first post, I'm a retired lecturer living in Northern England and have had STypes since 2007. I now have 2 2000 3.0 S Types, one is a scrapper on the drive for parts. It had a new CC valve fitted not long before the car became US due to gear box failure and I would like to fit the now removed CC Valve to the identical s type with faulty CC Valve. The valve is now OFF the car but I would like to know it is still working BEFORE I fit it to the replacement S Type.
Is there a way to test it?
Cheers
Michael
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#5
Well it's possible but I think the record for DCCV's is so bad I would get a new one only. We have even had reports of bad ones right out of the box too.
For some reason Bosch just can't build them very good. I think the DCCV is the number one thing that is pretty much guaranteed to fail on the S Type and Lincoln LS. 3 or 5 port does not seem to matter.
Sitting is even worse because it just keeps corroding.
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For some reason Bosch just can't build them very good. I think the DCCV is the number one thing that is pretty much guaranteed to fail on the S Type and Lincoln LS. 3 or 5 port does not seem to matter.
Sitting is even worse because it just keeps corroding.
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.
.
#6
Just buy a new one. The Motorcraft (best of the bunch, from my experience) 3-port can be had for $65 via eBay. Don't know about the 5-port'er.
The only truly viable way to test it is to fit it to the car and drive. Sure, you may rig up a 5-port medusa of a hose assy and figure out a way to pressurize it. You may also fit 3 wires into the little connector body, insulated from one another and all making connections and make the solenoids open and close. But you'll likely not simulate the conditions (temp, vibration, etc) it will see in the car that may precipitate failure - I just had one that worked perfectly, for 10-40 mins, but then would open up and provide full-heat, wanted or not. Turn it off (full open) for 15 mins and it would be good to go for another little bit....
The only truly viable way to test it is to fit it to the car and drive. Sure, you may rig up a 5-port medusa of a hose assy and figure out a way to pressurize it. You may also fit 3 wires into the little connector body, insulated from one another and all making connections and make the solenoids open and close. But you'll likely not simulate the conditions (temp, vibration, etc) it will see in the car that may precipitate failure - I just had one that worked perfectly, for 10-40 mins, but then would open up and provide full-heat, wanted or not. Turn it off (full open) for 15 mins and it would be good to go for another little bit....
#7
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