OK..... quick lesson...

In the US (model transition years in Europe are earlier.. IE 03 is 02.5) the S type came out in late 99 as a 2000 model. It was developed WITH Ford, not BY Ford like some think. It shared it's platform with the Lincoln LS. The V6 is a Ford Duratech with a special tuned intake and valve train, built in Cleveland Ohio. The V8 is Jaguar's AJ V8 (in both the S And LS). In 2003 they revised both cars. Jaguar specifically transitioned to the ZF 6 speed transmission, revised the interior and added their own controls, and created their own revised suspension. In 2005 the S Type got a revised body and some minor suspension revisions. The final year for the S Type was 2008, yet the platform lives on, heavily modified, as the XF.

The reason for all that.... The helpful users here need to know what year and motor your S Type has because of these revisions. Sometime the issue talked about here covers all years, sometime it is one "generation". A good example would be an oil change. The filter and drain plug is the same for all of them from 2000 to 2008. In other instances, the part number for a specific year may be different, but the basic repair procedure is the same. IE; changing sway bar bushings (Hint, Hint).

I hope that clears up some of the threads here for you.. I also hope it was "respectful" enough as well....

 

Thanks guys for catching my type (6V) . I did find out rags are needed to wipe up the dripping oil off those pipes. The location of the filter also caught me by suprise, being located at the rear of the oil box.

I ended up having to make a trip to the store to get a wrench. I had no idea the last place I had the oil changed at, they would use a crowbar to tighten the filter! LOL I am so used to using an old leather glove that I wear to grip the filter, I expected I would be able to do the same. The drain plug was on so tight, I feared I would either break the ratchet or break the head off the drain plug.

All in all, I am not sure I would want to do this again. The ordeal was slightly longer, no ALOT longer than expected. Perhaps as mentioned before, doing this task will become easier with time....

 

It will be easier next time, and you also get the opportunity to check the underside of the car for any other problems which may be developing, so it could be an hour well spent.

 

Clearly they were on far too tight. If you put them on hardly tight at all, they'll come off easily - as they should.

 

Agreed any oil filter should only be put on hand tight. Never use a wrench going on,won't need one coming off.

 

For those with really good muscles, don't use all your strength

Also, the drain plug only needs to be tightish, not super-tight. (But not loose LOL)

I use a dab of touch up paint (from a previous car) on both drain plug & oil filter so it's easy to check they've not moved.

 

Nice tip on the paint JagV8.

One reason i switched to K&N oil filters several years ago is the welded nut on top. In the event I smoke it on too tight or is just in a difficult position to get torque on, a 1" wrench makes short work of the filter.

The undertray is a bit of a PITA but worth the 5 extra minutes it takes to remove it than to not have it at all IMHO.

I'm still not sure what prompted the "respectful" comments in the post that brought this thread back from it's year and a half slumber......

 

I have 3.0 v6 2000 S Type with no shield WASSUP !! Should I buy one @ junk yard?? Please advise

 

I'd vote that you should try and find one, it certainly keeps the engine bay clean, can give you a clue to small leaks and probably is worth a smidgeon on the gas mileage.

 

Roger that !! 2000 S Type 5/30 royal purple w/k & n 108000 K

 

Ok, lets do this in plain english (thanks to, well, I forgot, but it was posted here somewhere) but here it is in plain english.

1. The 2003 S-Type Jaguar V8 really has a drain plug and oil filter that can be changed by the owner. No, you do not need to suction the oil out of the filler tube (why this appears in posts I do not know as it seems unbelievably stupid).

As reported before, you will need 2 ramps, a 10mm socket wrench and a phillips screwdriver to release the plastic "pan" covering all this up.
3. The plastic pan is typical of English design: you better know just what fastener goes back into what hole or you will suffer for it (I did). And you will have trouble getting the pan back on.

A. Release the plastic pan (several 10mm machine screws and several phillips-head screws.
B. The drain plug at the rear of the engine oil-pan will be obvious, catch the oil in a pan and recycle it. Replace the drain plug, then undo the filter with the drain catch now below it - it will leak oil.
C. When the filter engine attachpoint stops dripping oil, clean it off with a shop towel, lubricate the new filter gasket and threads with clean engine oil, then screw the new filter onto the engine threads hand tight.
D. Refill the engine with 6 quarts of Synthetic 5W30 oil. Start the engine and check the oil level after running 2 minutes then shut it down. You may need another qt of synthetic oil as I did.

2003 Jaguar S-Type owner and motorocycle mechanic Jerry814

 

Same as the STR

 

Frankly when I had to replace my transmission at 64 thousand with no warning at all it was going until the light came on with my wife driving on a major highway and then it was to late. The guy that worked on it for me to change the trans said something interesting. That tray underneath the car probably hurt my chances of catching the trans going because it hoses were leaking fluid going back and forth to the radiator. The tray caught the leaks and as the car was driving the fluid would just role down to the end towards the rear of car and would be lost over time as I drove. Then once at home it slowly leaked and sat in the tray and never went to my garage floor where I would have seen it happening and maybe been able to fix it sooner then replacing the whole trans. When he put the new trans in, we left the tray out. He gave extra protection to the hoses below and now changing the oil takes 10 minutes (synthetic) and when down there I examine everything to make sure it all looks ok and no leaks. If something does start to leak the tray is not in the way of my garage floor where I can see it and detect it early and hopefully correct the problem before something major happens. Just my thought on this subject.

 

I posted about the fasteners.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...steners-57920/
Thought I'd chime in since this got resurected. Some mention torx and phillips. Ours had two sheetmetal screw in the frt with 8mm/ 5/16 heads.

At any rate this isn't a Jaguar thing. Lots of modern cars have underpans. The ex has a Crossfire and it's much the same drill. I'm researching C5 Corvettes and they have em too. I think they serve a purpose. If you read the FAQ as I did, there is a good writeup on servicing and inspecting the bellypan for fluid leaks.

BTW, I confirmed at the parts store they are 6mmX1

 

My previous Ford also had an engine under cover - a large, substantial plastic item that they sure wouldn't pay for and fit if they didn't think it was needed!

 

I detest having to mess with belly pans to get to the oil pan plug and oil filter. But I always re-install them after I'm done with the service, especially on the S-Type, because there's so much low-hanging fruit down there to get damaged by road debris if you leave it uncovered. Next time you're down there with the belly pan off, take a look at how low your compressor, HVAC shielded hoses, and oil pan are mounted. Yep, the belly pan is indeed a hassle to mess with, but you get better at it over time, and it's always better to be safe rather than sorry....

 

Quick oil change tips:

1. Ramps-I have the Rhino ramps but my car scraps when I drive up on them and my car isn't low. I made ramps for my other low cars and they work perfect for the Jaguar. The ramps cost about $10.00 to build and my life is so much easier.





2. Parts & tools-
7 Quarts of Castrol Syn Blend SAE 5W-30 (normally Auto Zone has the best sales)
10mm deep socket, 1/4 drive ratchet, 16mm box end wrench (some are different sizes), cross-tip screwdriver, 2 7/8”-3 1/4" or 73-82.6mm swivel oil filter wrench (stock Jaguar filter). I got mine from Advance Auto for $6.99
Buy Performance Tools Swivel Oil Filter Wrench W54045 at Advance Auto Parts____
Jaguar parts from Nalley Jaguar w/forum discount
C2N3587 Oil Filter $16.11 Original Jaguar filter
NCE1850AB Oil Seal $3.23 The O-Ring for the drain plug
JZH100062 Oil Plug $5.69 The drain plug
I always replace the O-Ring every oil change. It’s cheap insurance and if you have never replaced you drain plug, it’s smart to start off with a fresh one.

3. Pull up on the ramps, take off 3ea front 10mm bolts, two cross tip screws, two middle 10mm nuts, and two rear 10mm bolts. Take out 16mm drain bolt, clean everything, replace o-ring and reinstall. Take off oil filter wipe off and clean oil filter mount, apply thin coat of oil on the new filter seal and hand tighten. Add 7-quarts of oil, start engine, check for leaks, and reinstall belly pan.

 

Actually, that kind of scares me and further reinforces my desire to work on my own vehicle.

What that "mechanic" said is the far from the truth. As others have said, not only does the belly pan protect things under there, but it also serves as an indicator of any leaks. Now, if it is left neglected and never cleaned, yes it will be next to impossible to detect a new source of "grime". But if cleaned and maintained at each service interval it will show even the smallest of drips or leaks...and point you to the source! Every leak or drip of oily fluid first showed itself on the belly pan when I had my S Type. I thanked the car designers when I first looked at my 300...It too has a belly pan! Now if the Chrysler/Daimler engineers had only designed the fastener system better, like the Jag's... But that is a way off topic subject...

 

Josworth, I understand your thought on this and I might think about putting a new pan back in place. I have done most of the repairs on our car, as you can see on other threads I have posted. And you are correct about the re-enforcement of doing your own work on many occasions. I gave extra care to everything I do. I have not had an issue since, and this is not to say Jag mechanics could not have done the same work. On the "mechanic" that replaced my trans, he is considered in my area one of the best in the business and everyone goes to him for Transmission work. This was purely his opinion on the pan under the car. Part of the issue was we do not drive the car often and an oil change can go three months before happening. He stated the fluid was very very low when he drained the trans. His theory makes sense. Would I have been able to know it was leaking without the Pan? Did the pan stop me from noticing a fluid lose? If I would have noticed fluid on the floor of my garage, I might have addressed the issue sooner and maybe, just had to replace the tranny fluid. And we all know this year of Jag has a trans with so many issues it would take two pages to complete. So the fluid level could have been the culprit, but who knows for sure. Right now the trans works great and He suggested I bring it back after a time so he could check the fluid levels.

On the oil to use, I know the book calls for whatever, but that was 11 years ago. Those same guys back then recommending the oil to use were also the same guys installing those transmissions thinking they were great. If your doctor wants you to use a newer medicine because they have found it works better then the older type you had used in the past, you going to switch? I have found using synthetic oil in my car has made a difference.

 

Really? It takes no more than 5 extra mins. The time you lose in changing the oil you make up for in not cleaning the engine, and better aerodynamics.

Edit: Just saw the OP posted this 1.5 years ago. lol Back from the dead.