Hi there , Well I have a S-type 2003 v 4.2 , after 4 days stop (by a trip) I try to start it the engine run for 2-3 secs, after that suddenly stop and never started again , It was 41°F a cold morning.
I check all the fuses , charge the battery try again but no luck seem to be running in vacuum , I re-arm the inertial switch also no luck
I try to started with liquid starter (in the hose vent) and no luck not started

The I tried the cranking again but with pedal full to the floor , two times after that it tried to start but no luck.
But the sound now was clearly different like it tried to run but something miss, now I thought that I’m having a “wash out cylinder” issue in 2003 Stype 4.2?

Well which is the best procedure try to put some oil in cylinders I need to change de Sparks? Or try the cranking way? In the last case, I need to do more times cranking with pedal full how many times? I could broke some components trying doing it?
Regards

 

The 4.2L does not suffer from bore wash like the old 4.0L V-8 did.

Jaguar installed oil squirters aimed at the bottom of the pistons to prevent the gasoline from washing the oil off the cylinder walls. Especially on cold starts.

Yes some oil in the cylinders can help when doing a compression test but I would not do it to start the car.

I think you said you have tried starting fluid in the intake?

I am not clear if this got the engine to kick off or not?

What is the PATS light up by the base of windshield doing?

Do you have any fuel pressure?
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Yes starting fluid didn´t help .. I check all the fuses , the dash light when I insert the key put in II position on and after some secs goes off not blinking , I put ELM323 in the OBD2 and no err codes also , I can ear the fuel pump start also ..
I will try to record the cranking sound

 

Starting fluid didn´t work the same cranking in vaccum noise

 

Starter fluid is not a good idea any more.

You might have caused bore wash, very rare though it is on the 4.2.

If so, you'd need repeated WOT cranking. (It will be easy to cause bore wash again if you're not careful.)

 

hi jacv8 , which will be the correct steps for a wot cranking , and end starting engine .. regards

 

If it does not try to start with starting fluid this points to a lack of spark.
Even with bore wash the starting fluid is very easy to light off and does not require much if any compression to ignite.


Can you verify that the plugs are firing?
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I will try this weakend to do te tests , and wot cranking again thanks for all the feedback

 

Check wiring connections as lack of spark appears to be your issue.

żEstás en Santiago de Chile? Mi primer idioma no es el espańol, pero creo que hay un problema en los términos en inglés. żTiene la ascensión?

 

Yes I'm in chile thanks for all the feedback.. well this weekend I replaced the sparks , tested and I could saw sparks from one of them that left out.. then I started cranking with the pedal full , after 6 times the sound is like (the first track of the file) and after I tried with 75% pedal and I recorded (the second track of the file) sound seems to be trying to started but no luck now what? Oil in the spark plug holes? more cranking? how many times more wot cranking ? regards

 

It sounds like the throttle motor wires are not making good contact. This will not throw a code usually. If the engine starts spinning over fast like there is no compression, this is the problem. Push the wiring plug into the throttle motor firmly while someone else cranks the engine over. If it runs, just tie strap the connector to keep it tight. My 2 cents worth.

 

You can have all the fuel and spark, but if there is no air?? He mentions cylinder wash like there is no compression. Sounds like the throttle is completely closed in a no start condition. Even if some of the ignition coils are bad, it would still start. Stop up a vacuum cleaner hose and listen to the motor rev up. It's because there is no air coming in to create the load. You can create an air leak in the intake to see if it will start to test if the throttle motor is defective several ways. You can stick in an air hose past the throttle on the intake side. Be Careful because the engine can run away. Have someone ready to turn it off.

 

Hi Marc.. Ok I will do the tests this weekend and post the results.. regards

 

It may be you need more WOT cranking before less throttle or that 75% is wrong for your car.

But it may be that you have some fault caused by the things that have been done.

It is almost unheard of to be in this situation with the 4.2.

 

Today I tested and cleaned the throttle body and the throttle plate , also I cleaned the maf sensor, every thing was working well.. then I measured the cylinders pressures, disconnect first fuel pump , and all were too low between 40 and 70 psi
Then I put 10ml of oil direct into the spark hole , and tested pressure again all were 140-170 psi
After enable fuel pump , and put all the pieces in place , I tried again and the engine fire up with a huge white smoke ..
I need to be more carefull now , how to prevent be in this situation again ?

thanks to all the guys who give me a feedback
regards

 

When you have put the spark plugs back and you are ready to start, use good fuel and be happy with your car.

 

Almost no-one else has managed it with the 4.2 so it may well not recur.

 

Many many years ago, I worked in a small engine shop. An old man brought in a chainsaw to have the chain sharpened which we did. He asked us to start it for him, which we couldn't, and we could feel the compression was low. Removing the muffler from the 2 stroke engine allowed us to inspect the piston rings which were stuck in the ring grooves. That is why it didn't have compression. He squirted some oil directly on the rings and started the engine, and ran it till it warmed up. The oil made a temporary seal but he did start it and warm it up.
Could your Jag engine been run with too many different types of low detergent engine oil causing the rings to carbon up and stick? I would run 15W40 diesel grade motor oil in it from now on and change it more often to help dissolve that carbon build up. I would also run some ATF in the gas too.
I have been running 15W40 in all my engines for decades without any problems at all. Currently in 2 Jags, & several lawnmowers, Harleys, Honda's, you name it. It gets very hot here in Southern Louisiana and our winters are mostly just a cool front, so the slightly thicker oil works well.

 

With this problem being so very rare on the 4.2, I'd stick to OE-spec oil and see if all is OK.

 

The symptoms do not sound like typical bore wash at all. It might be interesting to see if it returns and is again associated with low compression.