Will post DTCs after work, appreciate all the feedback.

Will check those things and reply - thank you for helping me try to solve this mess.

 

Shifter cable is tight and snug, bolts are all there and tight. Car and shifter is in park, doesnt seem loose or not in park.

PATS light is working as normal, blinking red when locked/activated - off when trying to start car.

Sleeve is not installed properly as per NBCat posted guide above, the gap is large than 3.0mm - see my picture. Problem confirmed #1.

I am ordering 5qts of D4ATF and going to re-do the job myself over the weekend and seat the sleeve properly.

I am concerned because the car started even with the sleeve being installed improperly, now it does not start.

Cant find my odb scanner so I will pickup a new one and scan the DTCs and post an update after. Thank you again for all the help.


P.S This guy did not install the proper oil filter, paid for a k&n filter .... some random off brand oil filter is in my car, brand new but not the filter I chose. Makes me question the fluid he put in my tranny.... this mechanic has been fair and honest with me in the past. Shady south florida I suppose.

 

Hmm...sorry to hear what happened. I'm also in the South Florida area...and yeah....there are some shops I avoid. What shop did you go to?

There is one shop I go to in Hallandale for all my work now. There was another shop I used to go to in North Miami with our BMW, but after I realized some parts (parts you wouldn't easily see as missing) were missing from the car, I stopped going to there. Hard to find a good mechanic.

 

Indeed - very hard to find a reliable, honest mechanic. For a long time I had a mechanic who worked at warren henry jaguar by 441 and pembroke road do off-hours work for me.

Since I have been using a shop called Marka on 411 and hollywood blvd. When I first randomly stumbled upon them they did some tire work, had a bent rim but they could not fix that- they refused payment on the tire. I brought our cars to them as they seemed honest until this disaster.

 

Hi xoroniox,

One possibility is that the transmission electrical connector was fitted just enough for the car to start, but the vibration of the engine running caused it to wiggle loose. The theory being that since your new sleeve is not fully seated, the electrical connector cannot fully connect.

Not to hijack your thread or get too far afield, but I question the use of D4 ATF in your ZF 6HP26 transmission. I use D4 in our '93 to replace the originally-specified Dexron III, and it's the best I've found for that, but the 6-speed ZFs have entirely different fluid requirements. Redline says its own D6 will work, but ZF insists that only LifeGuard 6 is to be used. LG6 is very expensive, but it's what all the European automakers specify and use in the 6HP26: Jaguar, BMW, Audi, Bentley, Mazerati, etc. Some of our members are reporting good performance with Mercon SP, which has specifications similar to LG6 and is used by Ford/Lincoln in their 6SHP26 gearboxes. Some members have tried other fluids, but there have been some reports of transmission issues after mixing a new, non-ZF fluid with the original ZF fluid that is retained in the torque converter when you just drain the pan. So if you don't go with LG6, it would be prudent to do a thorough flush to replace as much of the original LG6 as possible. There are mountains of discussions on this topic on this forum and it would be worth doing a little homework so you have at least a basic education on the subject before you choose your fluid. Here's just one of the many threads on this topic:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...6/#post1259170

Cheers,

Don

 

EDIT: Will do some further research on fluids - also I saw some member quote that they contacted red line who confirmed D4atf is ok for the zf trans. Will update as I wont be doing a full flush, more research is a great idea.

The awesome post by ccc about the transmission pan/sleeve mentioned D4ATF , i also read up on bimmerfest forums and equivalent shell 1375.4 spec fluids.

Seems mercon sp/ d4atf are ok, I would like to go with lifeguard6 but cant justify the costs vs $12/quart d4atf - mercon sp shows up at 10$ but I almost went with that to save a few dollars. Also, I saw a member mention castrol multi import atf being ok but I didnt see the shell spec on the bottle so I passed and it was showing at $8/quart not enough of a savings to make it worthwhile imho.

I hope you are correct about the sleeve, it needs to be installed properly no matter what. Need my odb2 so I can check the codes and get this car back on the road!

 

Please do check the Redline website (redlineoil.com) to confirm that it is D6 ATF that they claim meets the Shell M1375.4 specification required for the ZF 6HP26. They do not make the same claim for D4. You can also compare the viscosity index of D4 (198) to D6 (166) to LifeGuard 6/Shell M1375.4 (151) to see that even D6 does not have as low a VI as specified by ZF (and VI is only one of many ATF characteristics that matter).

You may also want to read the replies I recently received from ZF and California Transmission Supply Co. (who service ZF boxes and sell LG6 at the lowest prices known in the U.S.). Their responses are in posts #110 and #112 in the thread I referenced earlier:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj...6/#post1259170


Cheers,

Don

 

Don,

Thank you for your advice. After re-thinking and reading plenty more forums, I cancelled the D4ATF (You are correct Redline says D6 is for the ZF).

I however did not order the D6 for my ZF trans, I went ahead and ordered lifeguard6. The savings of 50$ was out weighted in my mind, by the peace of mind offered by buying the zf recommended fluid. I plan on keeping the car for awhile and thus decided better to be safe than sorry when dealing with a trans that can cost thousands.

The only thing that has me worried, #1 car does not start atm, #2 the tech who did the botched sleeve/pan job will not tell me which fluid he put in, obviously has me thinking its not the proper fluid. This fluid is mixed in now with the original fluid.

I ordered 8 liter from bavauto.com as they have a special right now, $165 shipping included. I chose them because, 1 they are close to me and ship same day, 2 they had a free shipping special and 10% off the zf fluid.

 

This is a very smart choice.

If you are in doubt about the fluid currently installed, it is best to start over again with fresh fluid.

 

xoroniox,

Good choice on the LG6, and thanks for the tip on Bav Auto's sale price, which is nearly as good as California Transmission Supply Co.'s price-per-liter when you purchase 12L, and you'll get the fluid faster since Bav Auto is close.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi, my 4.2NA has 60k mi and I would like to have the pan/filter/sleeve changed but am having trouble locating a shop to do the work. Most repair shops don't seem to want to be bothered with transmissions and pure-tranny shops, other than AAMCO, seem to be few and far between. Any suggestions on how to locate a place to do a fluid replacement rather than a transmission replacement? Is the magic question: "Would you do a pan and fluid replacement on a ZF automatic transmission"? tanks

 

Have you tried a shop that works on the German makes? They use the same 6HP26 gearbox.

 

Hi, I think the non start issue could still be down to the selector. Give it a good wobble while holding the key in the start position

Ryan

 

After looking at the picture - the sleeve is NOT fully seated.... it needs to go in a bit more... Just my $0.02 so your (unfortunately) going to need to drain and drop the pan. I've heard to use vaseline on the o rings on the connector sleeve to ease install. I used a dab of Lifeguard and used a block and bar to apply even pressure to get the sleeve to seat.

This might be a contributor to your no start condition.

I believe the distance with the harness locked in place you should have a distance from the case to the connector between 2.5mm to 3.0mm max.. (from memory)

 

>Have you tried a shop that works on the German makes? They use the same 6HP26 gearbox.

Ya, thanks, actually that occurred to me so I stopped by a BMW/Merc specialist near where I live. He was the one that told me that no one likes to do that kind of job. But I'll try some other shops.

I was just wondering how successful people had been in locating independent shops that do that kind of work.

================================================
Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar
'08 Jaguar S-Type 4.2 "Satin Edition" (250.06 hp / 259.67 torque)

 

Perhaps you can consider doing the work yourself. There are threads showing a 'diy' procedure.

 

>Perhaps you can consider doing the work yourself. There are threads showing a 'diy' procedure.

Yup, nope, watched the video of the guy changing it in his XK.

NFW am I going to try to reach around a hot exhaust pipe while trying to top off the fluid after it gets warm... =:-0

But thanks anyways... ;-)
================================================== =
You dreamed of a big star
he played a mean guitar
He loved to drive his Jaguar...

So welcome to the machine

 

Your location shows "Boston", so there may be other forum members familiar with that location who can suggest a transmission specialist.

One of the independent shops may also suggest where to have the gearbox serviced if that is something they prefer not to do.

 

pab,

You might try posting your inquiry in the USA North East forum. Perhaps one of our members who owns a Jaguar other than an S-Type but who lives in the Boston area may be able to recommend a shop qualified and willing to do the work for you:

USA North East - ME NH VT MA RI CT NJ NY PA - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum


Cheers,

Don

 

Gentlemen - quick update.
Drained the pan, removed pan and filter - reseated sleeve, was about an inch off- pulled it out, cleaned and inserted. Could not get the sleeve in all the way (its really hard) but it is sticking out 3mm which according the specs is ok.

Bolted the pan back up and car started right up. No transmission fault messages, only left the car on for 2 seconds because tranny is empty. Did not have time to pump in fluid, however I was about to cut off about 1/2 inch of an 8mm allen head wrench and used my foot to pop open the fill plug, its in there real tight. Tomorrow will pump in some new lifeguard fluid at temperature and get this baby back on the road.

Is there any way of measuring the amount of fluid removed from tranny? Feels like 6-7liters. I was thinking to weigh my old fluid, weigh 1 liter of new fluid and do the math- any better/clean ideas on how to measure????

Lastly, I created a chargeback case against the mechanic for this shoddy work through discover and will obviously not deal with him again. At the most I will offer to pay for the parts he installed (pan / filter) as it was new and decent quality - I still have no clue what fluid he put in, but if he requests I pay for that I may.

Question - does the TCM need to be cleared? if so does clearing ecm codes clear that as well? The U0101 code went away.

Thank you so very much to each and every person who took the time to help me. I will update again tomorrow.