i called that number to get a new a-drum and they want 295 plus a 100 core charge
and you said you paid 225 for yours right??? is that with a core charge
as far as a rebuild kit goes think the guy that has mine paid 445 for a a rebuild kit that has everything to overhaul everything in the transmission
once mine is done should have less then 1k in labor and parts
then its time to do the tensioners and tune up

 

not "free" enough

 

Anyone Know where to go for a full rebuild kit

 

Just wanted to add that I contacted Mobil (they are they parent company of Esso) and was told that Mobil 1 Synthetic is fully compatible w/ the 5HP24. They also said you can mix the two. The Mobil 1 is 8 bucks a quart as opposed to the 60 a litre (from jaguar). Used it, and it shifts better than ever. Didnt even need to use the jaguar OBD software to access the temp fluid temp. Used a 10 dollar digital thermometer and some clear hose to measure the fluid temp. If anyone is interested how I did this, Id be more than happy to share. Also if you need to order individual parts for the tranny, Erickson industries in Old Saybrook, CT sells them all.. I paid 50something for all the gaskets and o-rings associated w/ a A-Drum repair. They do not stock the A-Drum.... its on national back-order (probably because over 100k transmissions were effected)... You need to get a reman from eBay.

 

Ok I'm interested. Spill the beans!

 

Should we be fitting the re-manufatured part or is a new ZF a drum OK to fit ??

I am just about to get a gearbox refurb. It would be hassle and extra expense to use the strengthened re-manufactured item. Easier to use a new ZF drum (easily available in the UK for any USmembers having trouble with back orders). A friend who is a senior engineer in automotive design and manufacture says that the likely story for the ZF A drum would likely be a manufacturing problem to do with the steel properties and that he would then expect new ZF A drums to look identical but be of "better specification" steel. Hence he is trying to reassure me that a new ZF drum will be just fine even though they look identical to the originals which fail.

Questions:
1. Any comments on whether the new ZF A drums in the refurb kits from ZF are "good enough" ?
2. Is there any reason to think that the an entire new ZF unit (available in the UK) has A drums any better than the repalcement ZF drums (seems obvious that they will be the same part and reconditining cheaper) ?
3. Has anyone done large mileage on a new A drum ?
4. Has anyone had a new ZF A drum fail ?
5. Has anyone had a remanufactured A drum fail ?

I could ring ZF, but Their answer could be biased and based on engineering spec rather than actual usage.
Graham

 

Good questions, but you are correct it may not be easily determined if the 'new' ZF component is any beefier, or of a different strength material.

What some of our members have seen, is that the rebuilt units appear more substantial than the original a-drum that failed.

If it were me in your shoes, I'd get the ZF part based on the fact that it will give 50-100k miles of service, its easier to source, and cheaper.

 

It is my understanding that the new a-drum has dimples that identify it from the first series. I want with rebuilding my trans and at the present time I am satisfied. I have the phone number for the shop I used on my page. Just remember that he will help but he also does the rebuilds. Tom is a great guy!

 

Thanks Mat and thanks Gus,

I'll go with the "new ZF part" on the basis that I believe it is an improvement on the original and will be "good enough" for the life of the car.

For forum's interest: The friend who thinks ZF part is likely same shape but improved material handling used to be a production facility designer for automotive and brake manufacturing plants. He has no inside knowledge of the ZF A drum problem but says that from the description he would guess we are dealing with a well designed part that was then manufactured with the specification or handling of the steel material being the error. He then starts talking about steel matrix and fracture.

He would then expect the modified part to look idential to the original but to have different specification or handling of the steel matrix.

I asked him if he thought ATF fluid changes could prolong the A drum life. His answer was that if steel fracture was the problem the ATF fluid changes would not seem likely to prolong the life of the part.

He gave it careful thought as he drives an 2002 XJ8 ! He's now decided to drive it to A drum failure rather than change ATF.

 

I know little to nothing about transmissions and do not claim that I do. I had a lot of good feedback on my post and you may want to read it. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=29038

Good Luck!

 

Ok.. So I went to home depot and got some clear hose (forgot what size, but its the one that has the same OD as your index finger) and a funnel that will fit into the inside of the hose. Got a digital thermometer from ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Digital-Pane...item5ad5f9359c). I cut the hose to go from the fill hole to about half way up along the door. Despite the ups and downs in the routing of the hose, gravity will make the ATF flow. I connected the funnel to the hose and ran the thermometer lead INSIDE the hose/funnel. I ran the car for about 15 min (after initial fill) and opened the fill hole on the tranny. While still running, I stuck the lead in the hole, followed by the hose. The hose was large enough to stop any fluid from leaking out. At that point the reading was 85deg F. I added another 4 quarts (i filled it w/ 6 quarts w the car off). I think the whole system holds about 9 litres.. you do the conversion. I waited for the temp to reach spec.. I dont have the paper in front of me, but I think its 104deg F +- 20? and pulled the hose and lead out of the fill hole. Waited for it to stop flowing and plugged it back up. My temp ranges might be off due to the fact that I dont have the fill procedures in front of me. Hope that helps.. It worked for me.... Might not for you.. Dont blame me for errors!

 

Why not just hold you hand on the transmission pan. The 120F upper limit is about as hot as you can stand.

 

I was hoping someone would take this on cause it was SO easy!

 

Has anyone done a writeup yet on pulling the trans?

 

Hey squirrel,
Did anyone ever get back to you on this?

 

Oh snap I am doing this for sure with the reinforced A drum! So is anyone gonna put up a procedure on how to get to the A drum when the TC is out or am I gonna have to do it? I think I am going to pull it apart this weekend and put it together next week when I get the A drum. She FINALLY threw a p1722 today so I am 99% its a cracked drum.

 

I am hoping someone will post this repair with photos. Is it even remotely a DIY job?

 

I guess we will find out. I am pulling the trans after work today. Does anyone know what seals are required for this job? I guess I will find those next week.

 

Nope


I will offer this information though. To pull the trans you are going to need to drop the exhaust, which is a miserable *******. Most everything is going to be rusty and just plain stuck. The bolts holding in the pre cats are just aweful and burried up in the engine bay with nary enough space to fit a childs hand.

Secondly, check the tcm and linkages first.

Third, when re-assembling the trans I found a long ziptie was very helpfull when re-aligning the clutch packs once you started putting everything back together one of the clutchdisks would invariably be misaligned shoving a ziptie in the journal allowed me to wiggle them back into place.

 

Thanks for the tip on the zip tie. I got the trans out last night. The RH cat was easy since I snapped all the studs off on it last week when I changed the trans filter. The new toyota camry exhaust bolts fit perfect after tapping and came out easy with the antisieze I put on them. The LH cat....I never want to do it again and I snapped 1 stud and the stud came out on another hole. You also dont need an engine holding fixture when pulling this trans, although it could be helpful. I just opted to not use it to make more room for unhooking things at the rear of the trans.

I am pulling the TC and pump here in a little while to see what I can find broken in my trans. It may be something I can weld up myself, but if not I will get the strengthened drum from transtech. I am a little concerned about going into this fancy transmission with no books, lol.