Has anyone experienced leaking engine mounts? I have not heard any discussion here about this. I just had my cam cover gaskets replaced to stop an oil leak in the plug wells and my mechanic discovered the small leak on my floor was from the engine mount.

 

Greetings Lew,

I have seen this problem, not frequently, and haven't noticed a drivability symptom as a result of a bad mount on XJ8/ XK8. The easiest way to finda leakeris to remove the retaining bolt fom underneath. The bolt will be wet with whatever sort of hydraulic fluid is used in the mounts. It won't be dripping on the floor for long, there isn't that much to drip!

A long time ago I had an XJ12 in with the first hydraulic mount setup. The owner thought he had a brake system problem, and when I drove it and hit the brakes hard there was a wicked clunk in the front end. Both of the hydraulic enginemounts were collapsing from the weight transfer. I don't know if the later ones will do the same, but I haven't driven a car with two bad mounts. Most of the ones I have changed were discovered as leaking during an engine removal.

I have read posts from owners who stated that a roughness at idle was cured by replacing a failedhydraulic mount, for what that's worth.

 

I have ordered new mounts and my mechanic will install them soon. The new Iridium spark plugs really made a difference in the smoothness of the motor. The new mounts should make the car feel like new I hope. He is also going to repair the headrests on the seats as per the TSB. Soon I will have replaced $3K of parts in a year. It should be as new soon. Still have the intermittent steering column issue though.

 

THE mounts have a purplish fluid int them to cut down noise and vibration from the engine. When they crack and then break youll see purplish/black staining around the bottom half. passneger side is easy, drive side is a PITA and you have to drop the steering rack down, but not off.

 

The shop replaced one of mine at my last oil change on my 2001. They told me the flexible membrane hardens with ageand then cracks. It then releases the fluid that "dampens" the motor. That added $380 to my oil change. I asked about replacing the other one while they were at it and they didn't seem to concerned about. I guess they figured they would spread out the joy of Jaguar maintenance and get it next time!

 

That was my point about removing the bolt, which requires no other steps to inspect: the bolt will be wet if the mount is leaking, even when you don't recognize it from outside.

If I was working on your car, I'd have changed the bad one, seen a dry bolt for the other one, and recommend you save the money its unneccesary replacement would cost.

 

My mechanic said there was evidence that the the one not leaking onto the floor has leaked in the past. I found new mounts for $91, so I am going to replace them both. He also said that the mounts all eventually fail as Brutal, et al, said from the cracking rubber. So I guess it is like a lot of other parts, it is not if it will fail, but when it will fail.

 

I'm having the mounts replaced this weekend. Also having the headrest TSB done. Found the motor mounts for $91.

 

I had the motor mounts replaced today. One was leaking and the other one was dry and the rubber was hard as a rock. Seems to feel a lot smoother sitting in the car now. Also had the headrest TSB done and they are working perfectly. First time since I have owned the car! While the car was up in the air, an oil change was in order with 5W30 Castrol Syntec. He spotted another small leak around a pipe that goes into the tranny that will need a new O-ring. He will do that next week. Also he thinks he has a good tilt motor and will install that if he does. Should be in excellent shape after next week.

 

That's reassuring to read you have a good mechanic, and that the answers to your questions here were accurately answered. Do you you afford him any additional compensation for his efforts, considering you are beating him out of any parts profit? I'd be making sure he is well taken care of, particularly when reading so many stories on forums like this from owners who are overcharged and sold parts and labor that they do not need. Your pal Mr. bindwish or whatever would probably agree

 

Yes, he gets all kinds of perks from me. I took him and his wifey out for dinner recently.

 

Tip o' the cap to you, that's a good business relationship for all conerned. One of my parts suppliers is having Valentine's dinner with his girlfriend tonight.

 

In a thread I started about looking at an 05 xkr, h2oboy said to check that engine mounts haven't collapsed.

I'm going to look at an 05 xkr with 50k miles this weekend. It's for sale at a bmw dealer, any way to tell if the mounts are failed failing without lifting the car?

I note some posts say excessive vibration, but I've no frame of reference.

Also, with vin # assume I can call a jag dealer and ask them what warranty work has been done, but apparently it only tells the parts used?

Am I correct in that the throttle body issue was resolved after the first couple years of production, ie an 05 wouldn't have this issue?

Thanks
Chris
PS Sorry for reviving an old thread. but at least I used the search function before I asked questions!!

 

You are correct, detecting failing motor mounts probably cannot be determined by a test drive. When buying a 5 year old car an inspection by an independent mechanic would be appropriate anyway.

All the often discussed issues had been resolved by '03 and you are a couple of years after that. Any issues on this car will be of its own.

The warranty repair report is indeed available and does only list part numbers. There are a couple places on line to look them up or you can spend a few minutes at the Jaguar parts counter and get a good idea of repairs. The best solution is to locate the previous owner and have them authorize the release of the repair invoices. The dealer can print them all out down to oil changes. Between the two I ended up with a complete history of all work on my car.

Good work on the research. Hope the 'stickys' helped.

Great car, go for it.

 

That's why they stay on here 'forever'. Nice keyboard work!

BTW, my mount failed after 75,000 miles, and I don't have the zippy motor either. I bet the BMW guys, if they were asked to inspect it and knew what to look for, could confirm their condition.

Convertible or coupe?

 

Verbage from the JTIS, if you don't have it, buy it off ebay or find the links to download around the forums. More pictures on the CD along with this text. Good luck!

LH Engine Mount
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove both engine mount lower retaining bolts.
Vehicles with convertible top Remove the radiator splash shield.
Remove the underbody front cross brace.
Left-hand drive vehicles Remove the steering column lower shaft pinch bolt.
Detach the steering column lower shaft.
Detach the steering gear.
Using suitable tie straps support the steering gear.
Lower the vehicle.
Install the front engine lifting bracket.
Using the special tool support the weight of the engine.
Position the special tool to the fender channels and tighten beam fixings.
Attach the hooks to the engine front lifting brackets.
Tighten the hook adjustment nuts until the weight of the engine is supported.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the engine mount.

 

Here is my question:
Is there another way to replace the engine mounts without a "front engine lifting bracket"?

I tried, and could not complete an engine lift using a jack, wood board, and muscle. I was able to lift the engine (made alot of pops can creaks) and I was able to remove the engine mount but I could not get clearance to remove the part.

So what are the correct procedures?

Thanks!