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I was swapping out my spark plugs earlier this month and upon completion I came to realise my Fuel Injector harness is in pretty ordinary shape. I made a thread originally about swapping out my spark plugs but when I finished, the discussion moved on to building a new harness so I thought I would start a new thread to separate the two different topics.
The previous info is here for those who would like to get the back story:
I am currently working at sea but I am in the process now of figuring out what I need and ordering the parts so by the time I get back in late November I can start to build the new harness
Well so far this is my list of parts I need:
1) 12 * Bosch EV1 injector plugs w/pins and rubber boots. (Ensure the plug has half moon cut out to slide past fuel hoses) 2) Crimper to suit (if I don't already have one at home) 3) GXL high temperature cable. 3mm which is rated at 15amps. US AWG 16, 26 x 0.3. Various colours.(Still trying to figure out original colour coding. Will order a couple of meters for each colour so I have spare for other projects) 4) Multipin plug for connection on other end, that plugs into Resistor Pack. This I haven't thought about too much yet. A lot of options. I could use a trailer plug, re-use the old one, common up wires and use a 4 pin plug I dunno....still thinking on this one.
Anyway guys, as always I would appreciate any advice that we might not of touched on in the previous thread or anything you think I should add to the list.
Also as recommended I will more than likely take the harness up out of the "Vee" and tie it to the intake manifolds or fuel rail.
1) 12 * Bosch EV1 injector plugs w/pins and rubber boots. (Ensure the plug has half moon cut out to slide past fuel hoses) 2) Crimper to suit (if I don't already have one at home)
Just in case you were not aware you can buy the connectors pre-wired. Then it's just a matter of trimming the pigtails and soldering them to your high temp wire. That's the route I take, but it's just a choice.
3) GXL high temperature cable. 3mm which is rated at 15amps. US AWG 16, 26 x 0.3. Various colours.(Still trying to figure out original colour coding. Will order a couple of meters for each colour so I have spare for other projects)
Sounds good.
I use 5 colors. One color for the common "B+" sections and the remaining colors for the four injector groups
I use some high temp wire that I got from Painless Wiring here in the 'States. Can't remember the spec but it holds up fine. I re-route the harness so that it runs alongside the injector rail rather than laying directly against the engine deep inside the Vee. To be honest, I think this is where the real improvement is in terms of longevity. A person could probably use standard wire if routed outside the Vee....but the high temp stuff makes perfect sense considering the effort involved. While making a new harness isn't that hard, it's not the type of job you'd want to repeat every few years
4) Multipin plug for connection on other end, that plugs into Resistor Pack. This I haven't thought about too much yet. A lot of options. I could use a trailer plug, re-use the old one, common up wires and use a 4 pin plug I dunno....still thinking on this one.
FWIW I re-use the old connector after snipping back the wires to just a couple inches
Paul
You might buy 3 metres of each, you will be surprised how much you need, and if you make a mistake...
The injector harness plugs into the main harness, BY the resistor pack, but does not pug INTO it. I totally agree with Doug about the rail fixing, and also about buying pre-wired connectors.
greg
I am thinking if I can I might get the Bosch connectors with the pins and I'll make the leads so they are continuous from Bosch plug to harness except where it is commoned up. This way it minimises the splicing and leaves less points of possible failure....so long as I do the crimps correctly. Just my 2 cents.
I like the idea of keeping the original plug on the other end, its just that I can't remember what sort of condition it was in. From memory it looked ok. The only down side with re-using the plug that I can see is that I would have to make more splices.
Guys any recommendations on wrapping the wire? I don't really like the corrogated flexible conduit too much but I have seen on CAT generators I work on out here a real nice mesh all the wires are contained in for their injectors. Any input for and against?
I have also seen this used on alot of electronics I have worked on. Looks snazzy.
I am thinking if I can I might get the Bosch connectors with the pins and I'll make the leads so they are continuous from Bosch plug to harness except where it is commoned up. This way it minimises the splicing and leaves less points of possible failure....so long as I do the crimps correctly. Just my 2 cents.
I like the idea of keeping the original plug on the other end, its just that I can't remember what sort of condition it was in. From memory it looked ok. The only down side with re-using the plug that I can see is that I would have to make more splices.
Guys any recommendations on wrapping the wire? I don't really like the corrogated flexible conduit too much but I have seen on CAT generators I work on out here a real nice mesh all the wires are contained in for their injectors. Any input for and against?
Yep I like crimped connectors. If you haven't used a ratchet crimping tool before buy a few extra terminals and have a practice. The crimps can have a tendency to twist in the crimper, if this happens cut it off and re-crimp.
Paul
FWIW, I believe that shielding in this area does not much good, as once it gets as hot as the surroundings, which it will quite quickly whatever it is made of, the wires are "trapped" inside it and coo off far more slowly. The problem being there is not a hot side and a cold side. I mean, put a Kevlar glove in the oven for an hour and it will come out hot!
If you can find some silicone tape or wrap to tightly wrap the wires, a l=bit like the OEM loom, I feel that would be a better solution in this application.
The OEM plug will be fine by the look of it, just needs a cleanup on the pins etc. No need to worry about a splice IMO. Remember the entire car is full of push on connectors, bullet connectors etc etc. A decent heat shrunk splice will be the best electrical connection on the entire car!
Paul
FWIW, I believe that shielding in this area does not much good, as once it gets as hot as the surroundings, which it will quite quickly whatever it is made of, the wires are "trapped" inside it and coo off far more slowly. The problem being there is not a hot side and a cold side. I mean, put a Kevlar glove in the oven for an hour and it will come out hot!
If you can find some silicone tape or wrap to tightly wrap the wires, a l=bit like the OEM loom, I feel that would be a better solution in this application.
The OEM plug will be fine by the look of it, just needs a cleanup on the pins etc. No need to worry about a splice IMO. Remember the entire car is full of push on connectors, bullet connectors etc etc. A decent heat shrunk splice will be the best electrical connection on the entire car!
Greg
Cheers Greg lots of good points there.
I guess at least with the wire mesh loom it would still have alot more breathablity than say corrogated flexible conduit if I was to go down that route. But yes, my current setup just has the wires tied together with electrical tape which isn't too bad.
But to be honest I think what is wrecking some of my wires is also fluids as well as heat. When working around that area when I was home last there was heaps of grime down in that Vee and some red trans fluid sitting around 6A and 6B......what you say?!!
Well....I had my transmission start to boil out the filler spout one day a little and started running into that area which would explain some...I just never cleaned it up afterwards. (Long story )
What happened! Boiling Tranny Fluid does not sound good!
Oh I was a bit naughty. That last Jag meet we had at the racetrack Clarke and I were going around the racetrack for like 10+ laps and alot in low gear.
When I got back to the pit I saw steam coming from up the bonnet. When I opened it I could see where it was coming back out of the filler. Before I left my house that day I topped it up and think I over filled it
Yeah probably not the best to take the ole girl out on the track however we weren't really "racing" just more a sociable thing.
I think at heart though I am more of a cruiser and the ole girl is getting too old for that type of horse play...
when I redid my injector loom, I kept the old plug in at the end of the harness since the wire was still pliable. I also made use of a board for laying out the wires, following the old wires one at time as I went along.
instead of making a diagram, I mounted poster bard on a piece of plywood I had and use self stick 3m hooks then ran the wires according to the old
did leave plenty of extra and saved the old connector with a pig tail to connect new wires to
Daverb posted up some great pics in my previous thread on making the harness out on a wooden board same as what some of the other chaps had mentioned. I like it
Bought my Bosch connectors today online. Opted for the authentic ones I found on Ebay (cheers for the link Greg). GBP vs AUD isn't too bad at the moment and it worked out cheaper than buying from a local distributor who sells an imitation version.
I checked with the Mrs today to see if I had the right crimper at home. Got her to take some pics.
Correct me if I am wrong but looks like this will do the trick. # 5 looks like it will do the 14 AWG crimps that come with the Bosch connectors (Obviously different end though). Can anybody confirm?
The crimpers aren't new I just keep them in the little packet they came in as It has all the sizing on the back (lucky I did). The hardest part was explaining to my lovely wife where to look in the shed for them!
They will work, It's a bit hard to see from the pic but you may need to crimp each terminal twice, unless the jaws have dual size dies. One fore the wire and one for the insulation.
They will work, It's a bit hard to see from the pic but you may need to crimp each terminal twice, unless the jaws have dual size dies. One fore the wire and one for the insulation.
Yeah I was thinking the same warrjon It looks to me like similar crimp terminals I have used at work where the bottom section crimps the insulation and the top part does the copper. I have even soldered the copper part before on similar devices however if you leave any burrs it doesn't fit into the plastic housing.
Cool well I think the tool will do the job fingers crossed
The price sounds reasonable at $2.11/metre for 14 AWG GXL and $15 to deliver to my house
I just now have to decide what colours to use. Doug has mentioned he uses 5 different colours. This company only does singular colours for 14 AWG (see below) so I probably won't bother with trace wire colours.
Any suggestions?
Looking at the prints (thanks to Grant) there is a "KB" wire commoned up then you have groups of 3 injectors commoned up going back to the Power Resistors (313). So yeah, that would give you your 5 wires
Trying to understand the theory of operation it looks like the power supply is brought on by switch 312 (Main Relay) which gives +Ve to each group of 3 injectors and then back to the ECU on pin 22.
The other side of each injector is grouped with 2 others and goes back to the ECU via the Power Resistors. What happens when the injector pulses comes from the ECU? Does that mean it turns on 3 injectors per pulse? How does the system differentiate between injectors?
Well I just looked on the Jag lovers site and found a helpful quote for the colouring:
You'd like the correct colors, of course -- but you're not likely to find them. Ideally, you want about 10 feet each of OW, OU, OG, and OS, and about 40 feet of KB, all in 16 gauge. Since you're more likely to find solid colors than striped, ask for 10 feet each of white, blue, green, and gray. For the 40 feet of power wire, I suppose you could ask if they have pink. If they don't, perhaps red. Black is probably not a good idea, since black normally indicates a ground on British cars and this wire will most definitely not be a ground. Maybe brown, since brown indicates a power wire on British cars and this is a power wire.
Just out of curiousity can anybody tell me what colour KB and OU is supposed to represent?
Quick question: Is it 14AWG or 16AWG because I have read conflicting advice? 14AWG is supposed to be good for 15Amps and I know it doesnt matter if I have overrated the cable however will a 14AWG fit in those Bosch crimps?
If not I would have to go down to 16 AWG but thats only good for 10Amps. What is the max current draw for these injectors?
10-28-2016, 07:47 AM
Making a new Injector Harness for the H.E
but I am in the process now of figuring out what I need and ordering the parts so by the time I get back in late November I can start to build the new harness 
)
It looks to me like similar crimp terminals I have used at work where the bottom section crimps the insulation and the top part does the copper. I have even soldered the copper part before on similar devices however if you leave any burrs it doesn't fit into the plastic housing.
