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I bought a 1974 XJ6L last year that had already been converted over to a SBC. My family is car people and i thought at the time that no matter the issue I would have someone to help me along the way with restoring this project car as I use it as a daily driver.
Now, a year later, it has more issues than it did when I bought it. I have been fixing most of the mechanical issues but the electrical has me mostly stumped.
My windshield wipers worked when I bought the vehicle but after a year of driving they started to intermittently wipe when on, and then eventually stopped working altogether. Where is the relay for these as the information I dug for said this was the most likely cause.
And most importantly, the blower motors both do not come on with the climate control system. I just put air conditioning on the car and when i turn the knob for blowers it just clicks and engages the ac clutch. If i stick my hand in the ac vent when going down the highway i can tell that it is pulling cold air through. I pulled the dash apart to get to the passenger side blower and found two wires going into the side of the blower assembly and tried to wire them straight to the battery and a ground but the blower didn't turn on. However, to be entirely honest i don't even know if i am playing with the right wires.
I also forgot to mention something that is not electrical related.
The car overheats, but only if i drive it on the highway at speeds over 60mph. I have a mechanical fan that is working properly. I have replaced the thermostat twice, confirmed it is pumping water through the system, and even changed from a digital gauge to a mechanical gauge. The new gauge does read colder but not by a large difference. The one thing i haven't changed is the radiator (which i believe is still the jag stock radiator).
I can't imagine that these radiators hold up well with the V8 when it was made for use with the I6. I am going to try and check for blockages or dead spots in the radiator when i get a chance.
Anyone have a good way to troubleshoot this problem?
Hello,
When I got my car, blowers didn't work at all. I removed them both (NOT an easy task btw), disassembled and lubricated the motors. They work well and silently. There are 2 wires to the motors, hot wiring directly to 12v and ground should give you some action. If not, the motors are probably dry and need lubrication. They're brush motors with shaft bushings; everything comes apart for servicing.
My car was also converted to Chevy 350, and has a non-Jaguar radiator about 50% oversized. Even if the radiator you have is theoretically large enough, after 40+ years it's probably due for at least a rodding out. Mine was, and I've had no more problem with overheating.
Speaking of that, how do you know it's actually overheating? The conversion senders sometimes are not compatible with gauges and give false readings. I got an IR thermometer (Harbor Freight) and checked if mine was Really overheating or not. It got a little warm in traffic on a hot day, but not dangerously so, and while moving, the needle stays in the comfort zone (below half scale).
Think you could steer me in the direction of how to get those blower assemblies out? The guide i found said that the bolts holding it in were "obvious" and i can only find a single mount for the assembly. I know i am missing something.
I have had mixed readings on the temperature of the engine during highway operation.
I have had a single time after a 20 minute trip on the highway at 70mph, as i pulled off the highway i could just start to feel the impact of the heat on the engine and when i got it parked a minute later it was just starting to boil over into the overflow. I was having issues with leaking coolant hoses around that time though so i don't know if that was what caused that particular incident or not.
The gauges that i have had in the car, both digital and mechanical, will get up to operating temp (~190-210 range) and will never go above that if i am going below ~60mph. If i breach 60mph the gauge will climb up in temp, the faster the speed the faster it climbs. If i slow back down to 55 for a few minutes it will slowly go back down in temp on the gauge.
I hit the engine block with an IR we use for our racecar and it read ~205 when the gauge read 230. Another time that i thought the engine block was hot I hit it with the IR again and it agreed with my gauge this time that the engine was running ~230.
I don't actually know that mine is the original jag radiator, it is just what came with the car when i bought it. It is the entire width of the front radiator mount however.
And most importantly, the blower motors both do not come on with the climate control system. I just put air conditioning on the car and when i turn the knob for blowers it just clicks and engages the ac clutch. If i stick my hand in the ac vent when going down the highway i can tell that it is pulling cold air through. I pulled the dash apart to get to the passenger side blower and found two wires going into the side of the blower assembly and tried to wire them straight to the battery and a ground but the blower didn't turn on. However, to be entirely honest i don't even know if i am playing with the right wires.
Have you found and checked all four system fuses? Two in the fuse box, RH side. One on the amplifier ground wire, behind the console LH cheek panel. One clipped to the side of the heater case behind the console RH cheek panel
(These are the locations on a Series III. I'm fairly sure the Series II is the same)
When you adjust the temp control knob does anything happen? Any whirring sound from the servo in/behind the dash?
When i adjust the temp knob it whirs and sounds like it is opening and closing the vents. Without blowers i can't make heads or tails of whether it is doing the correct things or not.
try substituting the large Relay, which is 4 relays in one, located in the driver's side, behind the "knee panel". Or at least wiggle the wires with the engine running, a/c switch in AUTO, and TEMP switch in 65.
this large relay controls the 4 blower speeds. The 4 relays inside it are interconnected by very thin wires, if one of those thin wires separates, the entire system goes haywire.
sounds like the Servo is doing its job, leave it alone.
The Delanair climate control is very sophisticated. But, an amazing conglomerate of electro mechanical design. I've a manual. I've perused it on occasion. At times, I've thought I was getting it, then realizing, I wasn't!!! Sans AC in my car, it works nicely in providing heat and power ventilation. My solution? Don't drive it in extreme heat. Drive my Jeep. It's AC is usually just fine. However, I do not want to deter anyone from getting their cat to function as intended.
As to engine temperature. If indeed, it is the original I6 designed radiator, it has to go. Even when in good shape, marginal in hot climes on the I6. I lost a decent I6 to that combination. My car, now LT1 powered 'enjoys" an old tech four row brass radiator and PCM controlled E fans. I'm quite pleased.
At toad speed, any fan doesn't help, merely deters air flow. Viscous coupling helps. If it is in working order. If not, an invitation to catastrophe, a flying blade or two.
A picture of the radiator in your car would help us in Id'ing it as Jaguar or replacement. Clue. Odd hose routing!!!
Although, at times, trying, they are a ball to own and drive. Lousy weather has kept mine in the garage. But, yesterday, my "little" dog and I got it out and went to market. That V8 purr is mesmerizing. Even to my bad ears!!
But, a bit of "?" . Electrickery, again? Another story for another thread, mebbe. Sluggish boot latch!!!
Classic, if it's hot at speed then it's radiator; clogged or just inadequate. SBC's run a lot cooler than the original Jag 6. new LT or LS engines were/are designed to cool better and they do!
google wizard, griffin, be cool, flexalite, and maybe others to learn how radiators have also progressed; just like the engines. anyway you gotta radiator problem.
Yeah i figured radiator was really the only thing it could be.
There is a lot of temporary solutions on this car. I am slowly going through and making it nice. Try not to grimace noticing that this car is comprised mainly of zip ties.
As far as the blower motors, am i playing with the correct wires here? These are the ones that i ran straight to the ground and live terminal on the battery. No response from the motor.
I would like to pull the motors out and rebuild them, where are the mounts that are holding these *******s in? I only see the one bolt that is in the picture next to the wiring. I know i have to be missing something.
That widget with the blue and white/blue wires is the ambient air temp sensor. Let's hope that direct power and ground didn't fry it !
The wires that actually go to the blower motors are green/slate and black
From (foggy) memory (at least) some of the nuts holding the blowers in place are hidden behind the recirculation flap at the bottom of the blowers. You'll have to open the flap to reach them
I'm not sure I agree with your statement as to BTU's development among the I6. and the GM V8's. Fire is fire. More CI's more BTU's.
In my opinion, the GM LT and LS engines merely tolerate, by design, higher operating temperatures. The Jaguar I6, a marvelous design, not so much. Keep them in design limits and they will prosper. Exceed and oh ....
Still not sure, odd hoses not withstanding, as to whether that is a Jag radiator or something else. But, what ever it's genre, it isn't working.
The 2 wires you show are the power and ground for the blower motor. If you hot one up directly to the battery and ground the other one and nothing happens, the motors are probably so stiff they won't move.
It's easy to repair them once you get the assemblies out of the car. However, that will test your patience to the limit and might even teach you some new words like, "DRAT!!"
I'll get into my pictures, and post the procedure for removing the blowers.
I will say now though, to start with you remove the crash roll and demister vents (for access from above), the instrument panel, the underskuttle on both sides, the glove box, and drop all the wiring from below the steering wheel.
Your car will look something like this:
And here are most of the parts:
And here are the rest of them:
All this is necessary to have room to actually get your hands in and work on stuff, and have a ghost of a chance to get the fans out.
Right now I have to find my notes. I will return, but it might be a day or 2.
(';')
I happened across your writeup of how to remove the blower motors in another thread today by chance. You noted in that thread that there are two nuts inside of the flap at the bottom that need to be removed to get the blowers out, this is likely the information i needed. You also are saying that the wires that i tried to hotwire are indeed the correct hot and negative for the blowers?
I did a little bit of engine bay maintenance today. Got rid of the ford racing spark plug wires that have seen the headers a few too many times and put a nice new cheapo set on that will last until they also kiss the headers.
I have my interior already torn down to the point where i can remove the instrument panel in a couple screws. Hopefully that wont be the hell you are describing.
This will fix the problems with the temp gauge reading incorrectly, my speedo ( the cable broke ), and my tach was never adjusted to work with the chevy distributor so it has been unplugged.
I also need to take the door panels apart and figure out why the central locking does not work, and lubricate everything and see whether i can get the locks and motors to all come back to life. And put in speakers and speaker wire while i am at it :/
Whenever i tried to fit an aftermarket radio into my car, it seemed like there wasn't enough space to fit one in the same spot where i pulled the original out of. What have you guys done to fit an aftermarket radio into this spot? Are there any popular mods to the radio, or hvac and lighting controls that are on this panel?
I just found good pictures of blower motors showing the green and black wires that Doug was talking about. I definitely was putting power to the wrong wires. I will try and see if i can get my hands on those power wires to jump them before going through the trouble of pulling the whole blower assemblies out to find out i have a ground or a fuse that has gone bad somewhere up the line.
I happened across your writeup of how to remove the blower motors in another thread today by chance. You noted in that thread that there are two nuts inside of the flap at the bottom that need to be removed to get the blowers out, this is likely the information i needed. You also are saying that the wires that i tried to hotwire are indeed the correct hot and negative for the blowers?
Alright! If you found that, then you probably have a more detailed description than if I found my notes, because it was much fresher in my mind when I wrote that up.
I have my interior already torn down to the point where i can remove the instrument panel in a couple screws. Hopefully that wont be the hell you are describing.
Part of the mess in my car has to do with an aftermarket alarm system installed by the Previous Owner. However, I've done this 3 times on 3 different cars (one S2, Nix, and two S3s in a wrecking yard), and although I got better with practice, it's still Not a pleasant job and I hope never to do it again!
This will fix the problems with the temp gauge reading incorrectly, my speedo ( the cable broke ), and my tach was never adjusted to work with the chevy distributor so it has been unplugged.
Yes, now is the time to make any modifications you want to any of the instruments. Mine were all correctly adjusted when I got the car, and I like the look of the originals anyway, so I left them alone.
My speedo sheath is broken at the 90* adapter, but I was able to cobble it together so it works. As long as it works this way I'm not fooling with it again!
I also need to take the door panels apart and figure out why the central locking does not work, and lubricate everything and see whether i can get the locks and motors to all come back to life. And put in speakers and speaker wire while i am at it :/
Most people who lubricate the linkages find that's all it takes to bring alive Central Locking. Maybe you'll be as fortunate and you won't have to think about it again for another 40 years.
I also recently posted my experiences with my own Central Locking. Take a look here, https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...repair-177091/ and see if your switch is wired correctly. It's a very simple system, double action solenoids activated by relays.
Whenever i tried to fit an aftermarket radio into my car, it seemed like there wasn't enough space to fit one in the same spot where i pulled the original out of. What have you guys done to fit an aftermarket radio into this spot?
My aftermarket radio was never even connected to power when installed 30+ years ago, which was just Fine with me, as I find them distracting from what's going on with the car. I loosened all the securing clips so I can remove it easily, so now it merely plugs the hole.
...and lighting controls that are on this panel?
When removing the instrument and heater control panels BE VERY CAREFUL OF THE LIGHT PIPES (they look a bit like dark purple wires but are stiffer) GOING TO THE LIGHT AND IGN SWITCHES! If they get kinked or broken they won't transmit light anymore. The one to the light switch is the longest, snaking its way under the column.
These 4 are illumined by the Opticell hidden deep in the console.
The reflector unscrews 1/4 turn from the fiber holder (it's probably best if you don't take this apart unless you absolutely must, as the outer silvering is quite delicate), the light source is a snap in socket at the rear of the reflector.
Here's a post all about that if you're interested in upgrading the light source: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1128082
I've been Very satisfied with the 5 element LED, which even illuminates the light switch.
(';')
I got another look at one of the pictures. As best as I can tell, it s not an original Jaguar
radiator. A cross flow with tanks on each side. And, it covers all the available space. That is good. No air bypassing it. Very important. And a trans cooler line on the right tank. Jaguar did it differently. Unknown as to how many rows of cooling tubes. Ranging from a mere two to four. And, of more import, condition!!! Debris lodged between the AC condensor ant the radiator core. Clogged and bent fins???
Or merely, a dirty core inside.
Were it my car, I'd be more concerned with engine cooling than secondary things.
If you cook the engine, the other stuff will not matter....
02-24-2017, 11:04 PM
Series II electrical issues
