I'm looking at two cars at the moment. One is a 2005 XK8 and the other is a 2006 XKR according to Carfax.

The XK8 although being a year older has 25K fewer miles and has the advantage that it is close enough (4 hours away) that I can drive over to see it on Saturday.

The XKR is a year newer but has higher mileage. It is also 1000 miles away. However, I happen to have 2 different friends, both car guys, who live about 15 miles from the R. One is on his way now to look it over closely. He doesn't know Jags but he does know British cars being a collector of classic Minis as well as an occasional muscle car.

To make it a more difficult decision they are both, effectively, the same price. Yes, the XKR is selling below market because of some minor mechanical issues that won't take much to correct.

Detailed pictures of both show them to be darn near immaculate, both inside and out.

If there are no major problems with the R then my wife and I are getting on a Southwest flight tomorrow to hand over some cash and take a road trip home. If there are problems we will do an 8-hour round trip road trip to bring home an XK8. Maybe.

Knowing that there is at least one bargain XKR might tempt me to forget about the XK8 and try to locate another bargain XK4 if there is an issue with the one I found.

Either way, I will soon have another Jag in my drive! I have cash, and know how to spend it.

 

I test drove a 2001 XKR, a 2003 XK8 Vert, and a 2005 XKR Supercharged with Handling Package. I bought the 2005 XKR even though it had the most miles 93,000...

It is in excellent cosmetic condition, no accidents, 7 pages of Carfax, only maintained at Jaguar dealerships and I am the 3rd owner...

Im sure you don't need me to remind you to check these things out...

The XKR Supercharged had the most power by far, and is super smooth. It is the best car i have ever driven...There was ZERO comparison to the other 2 cars...The Vert had wayless miles, and was half the price, but I went with my gut feeling...

I see you also have an X-type... I do as well, (the sport model) and while I do still love the sedan, the XKR will make you feel like you are driving a bullet train.

If you have kids, forget the back seat. Only my handbag will fit back there!
If you "think" they will fit, I hope you will be ok moving your seat up with little leg room. I am 5"6 and there is no way I would be able to move the seat up to have my kid sit back there...when I pick his friends up, they sit cross-legged in the back, not kidding.
The coupe is a snug fit if you are tall.

Good luck! Post pics!

 

While I went for an 03 XK8, based on what you describe I'd get the XKR, however you note some issues with the XKR. Be very sure you understand the problems as these cars can be expensive to repair in relation to the cost of purchase.
Regardless welcome and either way you will find the X100 Jag a joy to own and drive.

 

have you seen this Supercharger with Handling package?

Cars for Sale: Used 2004 Jaguar XKR Coupe for sale in Memphis, TN 38128: Coupe Details - 434512139 - Autotrader

 

A friend sent me the same link about 2 hours ago. So tempting, except ...

I don't know anyone in TN who could look it over for me and it isn't a convertible. Mrs. Flowers and I really miss driving topless. (Get your minds out of the gutter!)

I'll keep it in mind in case all other cars I'm looking at fall through.

 

Thanks J. The XKR needs new rear wheel bearings, at least on one side. Also there is a sensor module in the driver's seat which has failed causing the air bag light to come on, I'm told. Sourcing a replacement will be the challenge.

The seller claims there are no other problems.

According to Carfax it did spend the first few years up North so rust could be a concern. However during that time it averaged less than 6,400 miles per year so I'm hoping it spent a lot of time in a garage hiding from bad winter weather and the road salt that goes with it.

One of my friends is test driving it right now, I think. I should know more soon!

 

One of the best investments that you can make is to purchase one of those remote camera, endoscope-like tools for automotive or contracting use. Look under the car on a lift to check the frame and all visible areas. Then remove the body plugs in the rear wheel wells and use the tool to look inside the rear rocker panels. Another sign that does not require this tool is to look at the seam at the very bottom of the rocker panel where it meets the floor pans. If you see any rust here especially where the paint seems to be peeling, walk away from the car. This is always a sign of something going on in the inside. I live in the NYC area and have regular use cars 15+ years old with none of this. It is completely unacceptable condition on a specialty car unless you are planing to restore and accept the work.

 

I have Carfax reports on both cars. The XKR has a completely clean record with 3 previous owners. The XK8 had a minor fender bump with no frame damage claimed. Pictures show the repair job was well done.

I understand. My gut is telling me the XKR is the one unless something really nasty is found.

I really should update my signature. Rust ate my X-Type to the point it would have been a deathtrap if I'd been in a collision. Sadly I got rid of it over a year ago.

I've never had cars that can really make power. The fastest I've owned was a Honda S2000 which was one heck of a lot of fun once you wound the RPMs up to VTEC territory. And it was great the one time we took it for a week to Gatlinburg and ran all over the twisty mountain roads.

Our kids are grown and gone. Maybe there will be grandkids someday but my daughter hasn't had any luck so far despite trying. But that's another story.

We do have 3 furkids that would fit back there just fine. George, our standard Poodle would love it! Sammy, our problem child with canine ADHD, would go insane with joy. Our little blind child would just want to crawl into the front seat and curl up in someone's lap.

5' 10" but I should have said I'm looking at convertibles.

Thank you. Pictures to follow as soon as I pull the trigger on something.

 

Thanks WH, that is excellent advice.

 

My one friend just finished looking over the car thoroughly and taking it for a test drive. There has been an intermittent trouble light for "rear wheel bearings" but it didn't show during this drive. Maybe a sensor problem?

Also the proximity sensor for the airbag has failed, not what I previously reported. Sourcing a new sensor could be a challenge; they aren't available from Jaguar any longer I'm told.

Other than that the car was clean inside and out. No signs of rust. This friend knows about looking for rust; he has an original GTO at a shop getting big sections of rust cut out of it (including shock towers) and new metal welded in. The tires show even wear so no alignment issues. It drove like a dream, he said!

I think it is time to start shopping for airline tickets.

 

If you have a condition where you live that rusts cars, you might want to consider the Corrosion Free application http://corrosionfree.com/ I have applied it to old and new cars with great results including the XK8.

The reason that I mention is that I have seen cars near the ocean corrode worse than cars in the Northeast by a large factor. Perhaps due to it being in the air, maybe sand abrasion.

It is not a destructive process and only leaves a clear somewhat slippery sheen. This is not a shellac or dark oily application at all. The plastics and wiring do very well with it and it can stop existing damage from progressing. I have older cars that look like new by using this.

Wishing good luck and much enjoyment.

 

Two things, I am also 5'10" like you and I fit fine in both the XK8 coupe and convertible. I am mostly legs in height and can get comfortable in the car. Get yourself one of those quick releases for the keys so that nothing hangs from the ignition when you are driving. This can annoy a tall person. My friend with the XK8 coupe is taller than me and has no trouble with either. It seems to me like the coupe has more headroom which is common with most cars.

Make sure that you measure ride height as this will tell you if it is time for springs and mounts which are not very expensive. Even the genuine Jaguar shocks are very reasonable. You want the Welsh mounts.

If you do the corrosion free application, make sure that they thread the hose into the rockers. PM me if you have any questions or ask here.

Best!

 

For fine negotiations check the upper shock mounts for crumbling foam and subtract $400 for the slightest crumble. Check the 4 ball joint boost closely and subtract $500 per torn boot.


People think I'm joking when I tell them this, but this is the minimum an honest mechanic will charge to fix these.

 

If there already are visible problems, I would encourage you to have the car checked by a shop that has the factory diagnostic tools (like the local dealer). The factory tools can interrogate each and every control module and ask for diagnostics through the OBD2 port. This should give you a better picture of what is going on, especially if you have to travel to go get it. Best case, a long list of codes gives you negotiation power, if you feel you can deal with the repairs. This is probably fairly inexpensive to get and easy to make arrangements for.

Another trick I have used is to call the service department of the local dealers if you have the VIN and a location from Carfax . As long as you focus on the car, service managers have generally been accommodating to my requests and shared the car's service history.

Last, there is no sensor for rear wheel bearing. There is a reluctor ring on the rear wheel for wheel speed, a major input into the transmission shifting logic. If this is a problem there, the car can go in "limp home" mode and make your trip home a lot less fun. You might want to know more before committing to a trip. On the other hand, a weak battery has been known to cause traction control module messages, too.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

You're dismissing issues without knowing the severity. These cars could have gremlins, and require some pampering.
The issues you describe may have been attempted to be repaired without success. Investigate further.
Also, you're about to drive 1000 miles in a car with warning lights on. Aren't you a bit uncomfortable with that? I would be.
The last thing you want, is that car to go into limp mode 900 miles from home and in the middle of nowhere.
Call me chicken, but something as simple as a faulty idler pulley almost blew my engine.

 

Pay for a pre purchase inspection by a shop that knows Jaguars. Unless you are wrenching,these cars can add up fast. Also, look for leaks or any indication valley/octopus hoses were changed. These are labor intensive on the XKR due to location in relation to supercharger.

Check my thread regarding the money I've dumped into my car. CarFax is not so accurate pre 2010.

 

If I were you, I would offer to pay to have all codes run at the local Jaguar dealership. That is cheaper than 2 plane tix and a potential tow... if they balk at the suggestion, walk away. That's what my gut is telling me, anyways... These cats are not usually found "below blue book value"

 

Thank you all, you have given me much to think about. The only opportunity I have to go see/buy the car is this Saturday, then I'm tied up for the next 6-7 weeks. So although a PPI at a Jag dealer is the only sensible thing to do it is not an option for me.

Unless I get it practically free I am seriously considering walking away from it including tearing up the airline tickets my wife prematurely purchased.

I have been known to wrench on my own cars including a lot of work on our late X-Type and pulling the engine of a Miata, tearing it down, sending it out to be machined (it was a junkyard engine replacing a blown engine in an unfinished project car I bought from a friend), reassembling and reinstalling then autocrossing it for a number of years. Even though I had parts left over it ran just fine! (OK, it was just the AC bracket left over from removing the AC).

I *think* the XKR problems are all manageable, but I don't *know* that they can be resolved without spending money like dsd did (yes, I read your thread). And, yes, that scares me a bit.

I just received a call with his bottom line number: $9100. Not quite free, but awfully darned close!

 

$9100 for a 2006 XKR is dirt cheap. I think the owner "knows" what is really wrong with it and is trying to unload to an overly-enthusiastic buyer...

if I were selling my XKR, and you asked me to take it to the dealer on your dime to get the codes run, I would. If you asked me to do a walk through video, I would.

You don't necessarily need to be there to keep interest in the potential sale.

 

If your worst case scenario is 60% of the purchase price for all potential work done at retail cost and you still like the car, make the purchase. Since this assume that you will pay a specialist to do everything that comes up, you now know your total potential cost. Obviously you are capable of doing some time consuming work yourself lowering the total cost. Additionally you will know who and how the work is done giving you greater control. This is how it worked with my XK8. As long as the non-negotiables are in place such as rust, collision and cosmetic condition you will have a great car. This is not the easiest find at this price point, go for it if everything looks good on Saturday. Where are you going to get a car this nice for about 14K?