2002 Jaguar X-type HELP
#1
2002 Jaguar X-type HELP
Okay I've posted on here before asking about some issues and nothing seemed to work but i havent been on here in a while so im making a new thread. So I have a 2002 Jaguar X-type 2.5 V6 and at higher speeds when i try to accelerate it jerks and check engine light blinks and says "cruise not available". I did get the codes tested a while ago at an auto zone and they are P1796, P1316, P1314. A car dealer took it to his mechanic and he said that it needed a new transmission and I took it to a transmission specialist and they said they dont think its the transmission and they gave me a piece of paper where they must have tested the codes and it said Bank 1 lean cyl. 2 misfire cyl. 4 misfire cyl. 6 misfire and random misfire. I dont know a whole lot but being all the even cyl. does that mean anything?? I replaced all the spark plugs and a new battery bout less than a year ago. Someone mentioned it could possibly be the coils? Ive checked the PCV hose where people say that is a common issue and its fine. Also brake booster hose looks fine. Also on another thread they suggested replacing the IMT valve O ring and that the older yellow o rings had issues and that they were recalled and replaced with thicker green ones. I checked them out and they are the thicker green ones and they look fine so i didnt replace them. Theres a jaguar specialist here and i talked to him and all he said was he wouldnt know for sure and theyd just have to start replacing things and just said to take it to a jaguar deal. but closest dealer is 4 hrs away and i can barely drive the car on the highway so thats not really an option. Help please if you know anything i can try. THANKS!
#3
No I havent tried that. Im not really mechanically inclined so I would have to take it somewhere to get that done. Which I can do.. thats why Im posting on here to get some opinions on what to do because everywhere I take it they seem to give me no answers. So that may be something I have to try.
#4
P1796 means that there is either a wiring fault in the Controller Area Network (CAN)wiring to the Transmission Control Module (TCM), or if your unlucky, a faulty TCM. (New transmission not required!!) It could well be just a loose or bad wiring connector.The car then defaults to being fixed in 4th gear.
P1313 is Bank 2 Misfire with the potential to damage Bank 2 Cat
P1316 is a misfire causing excess emissions - normally accompanied by codes for individual cylinder misfires that you don't seem to have although suggested to be cyls2,4 and 6.
Diagnosis of the actual cause needs elimination of a range of possible causes. Jaguar lists these as:
Most of these are less likely than failed coilpacks (1,2 or 3!), but a good scanner should specify which coil packs are underperforming to avoid guesswork.
P1313 is Bank 2 Misfire with the potential to damage Bank 2 Cat
P1316 is a misfire causing excess emissions - normally accompanied by codes for individual cylinder misfires that you don't seem to have although suggested to be cyls2,4 and 6.
Diagnosis of the actual cause needs elimination of a range of possible causes. Jaguar lists these as:
Cylinder compression low
Worn camshaft / broken valve spring(s)
Fuel delivery pressure (low / high)
Fuel injector(s) restricted / leaking
Fuel injector(s) continuously open
Fuel contamination
Fuel injector circuit fault(s)
(Injector DTCs also flagged)
Spark plug failure / fouled / incorrect gap
ECM to ignition coil primary circuit fault
(Cylinder misfire detected DTC also
flagged)
Ignition coil failureWorn camshaft / broken valve spring(s)
Fuel delivery pressure (low / high)
Fuel injector(s) restricted / leaking
Fuel injector(s) continuously open
Fuel contamination
Fuel injector circuit fault(s)
(Injector DTCs also flagged)
Spark plug failure / fouled / incorrect gap
ECM to ignition coil primary circuit fault
(Cylinder misfire detected DTC also
flagged)
Most of these are less likely than failed coilpacks (1,2 or 3!), but a good scanner should specify which coil packs are underperforming to avoid guesswork.
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Dremanti (02-26-2013)
#5
#6
#7
Dremanti - Check the wiring harness that connects to the throttle body. Make sure all 4 wires are attached and secure. A shot in the dark here, but worth a look.
If that's ok, the you need to complete the list of common issues:
1 - vacuum leaks
2 - check ribbed hose from PCV to intake for a split. Make sure it is a ribbed one.
3 - Replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets - 12 total. the 6 below the fuel rail are slightly different than the upper ones.
4 - clean or replace the MAF sensor.
5- check the battery amperage. These kittens are sensitive to electrical power.
6 - IMT Valve gaskets, but I think you stated that you covered this one.
You can do a shade tree mechanic trick on the intake manifold gaskets. Get a can of WD-40 and spray a mist around the location of the gaskets. Do one at a time and listen for a change in engine RPM. IF you hear the motor change pitch, you have a bad gasket.
If these are all good, then follow Astromorg's advice. Good Luck.
If that's ok, the you need to complete the list of common issues:
1 - vacuum leaks
2 - check ribbed hose from PCV to intake for a split. Make sure it is a ribbed one.
3 - Replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets - 12 total. the 6 below the fuel rail are slightly different than the upper ones.
4 - clean or replace the MAF sensor.
5- check the battery amperage. These kittens are sensitive to electrical power.
6 - IMT Valve gaskets, but I think you stated that you covered this one.
You can do a shade tree mechanic trick on the intake manifold gaskets. Get a can of WD-40 and spray a mist around the location of the gaskets. Do one at a time and listen for a change in engine RPM. IF you hear the motor change pitch, you have a bad gasket.
If these are all good, then follow Astromorg's advice. Good Luck.
The following users liked this post:
Dremanti (03-04-2013)
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#9
I think I've got the same problem with my 2002 / 2.5L / X-type. I bought it a couple of months ago. For the first few weeks it was fine and then things started happening - wouldn't go over 3000 rpm without problems. I replaced the 'O' rings on the intake manifold and the air flow sensor which stopped the 3000 rpm problem. I had already changed the spark plugs just after I got the car (I have to add that was a surprise ...) and the battery is new. I also checked voltage with the engine running and everything on and got 14.6 volts.
Anyway, now I'm having somewhat of the same problem as described. I can drive mine up to a good speed, up to 4500 - 5000 rpm for a little while but it will eventually cut-out and the engine light starts to blink and the cruse control is disabled. I slow up; let the blinking engine light settle down and everything comes back, light goes out and even my cruse control works again. I've got a code reader but it's not giving me any numbers.
I'm thinking it's a timing problem because just before the engine starts to cut out, it seems like I can feel the engine running rough like it's mis-firing and then (maybe) the computer is shutting the engine down. So my next try is going to be the upper knock sensor. I just wish I had changed it when I put in the new plugs
Rob in Colorado, USA
Anyway, now I'm having somewhat of the same problem as described. I can drive mine up to a good speed, up to 4500 - 5000 rpm for a little while but it will eventually cut-out and the engine light starts to blink and the cruse control is disabled. I slow up; let the blinking engine light settle down and everything comes back, light goes out and even my cruse control works again. I've got a code reader but it's not giving me any numbers.
I'm thinking it's a timing problem because just before the engine starts to cut out, it seems like I can feel the engine running rough like it's mis-firing and then (maybe) the computer is shutting the engine down. So my next try is going to be the upper knock sensor. I just wish I had changed it when I put in the new plugs
Rob in Colorado, USA
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