Thank you Thermo. I get file sent by you and I fixed 'fired' fuse. Now I have 12V in my lighter.

BTW. Place, where fusebox is placed in left-steering-wheel X-type is awful. Deep in dark hole ...

I have other tiny issues, but I will describe them in other topics to avoid off's.

Regards!

 

Hi all,
I'm new to this site and am enquiring for any information that anyone may have regarding the central locking system of my 1999 S-type. It had an intermittent fault where the doors were commanded to unlock which they did only to lock almost immediately. The fault has 'grown' to a point where I can not open the front, left/passenger door at all, I can't hear any activity inside the door at all, it just seems to have given up completely.
I put the car away the other day and when I went back to use it two days later, the battery was completely dead, so something is going on to drain it.
I would be grateful for any information on this problem, particularly helpful would be a diagram of the location of the fuses.
Thanks in anticipation.

 

Hi,
I have an 2002 Jaguar X-Type. I have problem with Headlight on passenger side. I have rebuilt the Head light capsule. I took about think that the wires were fused together, they were not. Nothing wrong with wires inside. When I install a bulb and turn the light on the 20 fuse blows for the main head lamp only. Could this be a bad head light relay as the problem? If so, do I replace the that relay and solve the problem? Which on is it?
Right now I run the wire straight to the bulb and it works fine. But I have to manually do this. Does anyone know how to solve this? thank you, Jimmie

 

Jimmy, first off, welcome to the Forums. I think you will find a lot of friendly people here and lots of interesting people and conversations. But, we do ask a simple thing from you. Please stop by the "New Member Section" and introduce yourself. We are quirky in that respect as we like to be very friendly here and as a result, we like to get to know one another. Besides, it will also give you a chance to meet the movers and shakers of the area.

As for your problem, where are you located? I ask this as "main beam" means a few different things between different groups. In the US, main beam is what the Brits would call their brightest beams (what the US would call their high beams). To clear things up, are we talking the small lens on the outside corner of the car or are we talking the larger lens more towards the center of the car?

From what you are describing and reading between the lines a little bit, what you are referring to is the low beam (US)/Dip beam (England) aka dimmer of the two beams. The "20 fuse" that you are talking about is really insignificant as the 20 is the fuse rating (ie, 20 amps). If you look on the back side of the cover for the fuse box, you will see a diagram that will label all the fuses with a number. That is the more important number for us trying to help you. Also, you have the option of 2 different style bulbs to go into the car. You have the standard halogen bulb (H1 bulb) or you have HID bulbs (D2S bulb). Which one do you have? This can change things slightly as to what is the most likely suspect.

Lets get things clarified up a little bit and then we can get you back to 100%. From what I am getting from interpretting what you are talking about, it is not a relay issue. We are looking at either something inside the headlight assembly itself or the wiring between the fuse box and the headlight assembly. But, I don't want to make too big of a leap too soon and really get us all confused.

 

Hello Thermo,

Yes, it is Std halogen bulb (HI Bulb). And it is the low beam side I am referring to, you are right. I have taken the headlight assembly complete apart. I did not see any problems. I check the continuity as well. As I have said the high beam side works but the low beam side blows the fuse when I turn it on from inside the car. I have tried a different inside switch as well, the same results. The wiring between the fuse box and the headlight assembly will be a big leap to check, please advise, thank you.

 

Jimmie, the first check I would do is to simply unplug the headlight on the affected side, install a new fuse, and then turn on your headlights. If the fuse does not blow, then it just confirms that the problem is inside the headlight assembly. If this is the case, your best bet is to probably get a new headlight assembly (unless you open up the headlight and find something obvious which you say you have done and didn't spot anything). I found one on E-bay for $140. See Jaguar x Type Headlight Head Light Halogen Passenger 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 Read | eBay

If the fuse does blow at this point, it is sounding like you are not much of a wiring type of person. if this is the case, I would say to spend the money and take it to an automotive wiring place to have them run a new wire between the fuse box and the headlight assembly. Granted, before you go that far, I would tell you to take a look at the headlight plug and specifically look at the wiring that goes into the plug at pin5 (has a green with white stripe wire going into it) for any signs of heat damage or damage to the plug. It is possible that the plug is damaged internally and the pins are shorting between the headlight bulb and ground.

The other check that I would try if you are suspecting the headlight assembly is to remove the bulb and then tape up the connections that go to the bulb (so they don't short out internally, leading to a misdiagnosis). Now, with the car plug attached, turn on your headlights with a good fuse installed. Did the fuse blow? If yes, then again it confirms the problem is internal with the headlight switch and you will more than likely spend more money paying a shop to troubleshoot the headlight assembly than what this one will cost on e-bay (but atleast give a call and see what they would estimate it to be). If the fuse didn't blow, then it is possible that someone connected the connectors wrong or the plugs on the headlight switch are touching and leading to a short that way.

If you need more help, let me know.

 

Hello, I unplug the headlight on the affected side, install a new fuse, and then turn on your headlights. The fuse did not blow. I connected back to the headlight assembly, the fuse blew. So, I suppose I need a new headlight assembly. When I did open the headlight I didn't find anything obvious. The wires I though might be the problem I taped them separately. Some purchased the one mention on E-bay for $140. They had another for a 2004 with broken adjusters. I also checked the plug and did not see any sign of heat damage. So far you are correct in solutions. I still have one question, You said that I could go to the fuse box and run a wire from the fuse connection and run it to that plug? Are you saying that wire could be grounded? Thank you for the advice

 

Hello Thermo,

More problems something totally different. I have to change out the Catalytic converters I believe I will have them both done. Anyway, I found them on EBay. They appear to be the correct ones. However, the installer is telling me that I may need the California version. How can I be sure that I don't need them? The ones I found are exactly like the one I have on my vehicle. The ones that I seen for California version look totally different? Does it really make that much of a difference? I don't have to do emission checks where I live at. Thank you, Jimmie

 

Jimmie, when I mentioned replacing the wire, it was assuming that the fuse would blow when you had the headlight assembly disconnected. Since the fuse does not blow when the headlight is disconnected, then the wiring is good and you can toss out the idea of having to replace that wire.

One other check that you can do, while a little labor intensive, you can try plugging in the good headlight assembly on the bad side. The plugs should be the same, so, it is just a matter of unbolting the good headlight assembly and getting it over to the bad side. Unfortunately, that involves pulling the bumper cover off. But, you would have to pull the bumper cover off when you replace the headlight assembly anyways.

Out of curiousity, when you hard wire the headlight to make it work, what wire are you disconnecting and installing the new wire to make the headlight work? I am trying to see if I can figure out where in the headlight assembly your problem may lie.

As for the catalytic converter, any car can potentially have the California converters. Those shipped to California obviously had the special converters. The special converters simply scrubbed the exhaust a little better, resulting in slightly better stuff coming out the exhaust pipe. But, it was at the cost of a little bit of power. You would have to take your VIN to a local dealership and have them do a "build sheet" search to see if your car was originally equipped with the California emissions equipment. But, from what you are describing, you don't.

 

Before you start replacing catalytic converters, I would try 2 things. The first would be getting your hands on a can of BG44. It is a higher end fuel injector cleaner and it will cause the exhaust to burn a little hotter, which his going to help burn some of the carbon out of the cat.

The other thing would be to do what is called a "seafoam treatment". Seafoam is a 'cure all' for a lot of things dealing with a car. Some people see good results, others will see nothing. I have had mixed results with my vehicles. Now, before you do what I say, find yourself some far off place away from any buildings and what not. You are going to SMOKE!!!!!!! I am not talking a little puff or something that looks like you are trying to start a fire. NO!!!!! I am talking the classic mosquito fogger truck type of smoke. What you do is you are going to remove the vacuum hose that goes between the intake and the brake booster after having driven the car to get the engine up to temp (ensure the car is turned off when removing the hose). Now, using a piece of vacuum hose pushed into the hole in the intake, plug the end of the hose. Start the car and with the help of a second person, remove the plug on the end of the hose and immediately drop it into a can of Seafoam. Have the person inside the car press on the gas to keep the car running. After letting about 1/3 of the can get sucked into the engine, let the car die. It will suck in a little more into the car.

At this point, let the engine sit for 5-10 minutes. The seafoam is doing is magic inside the engine. After waiting and plugging the hose again, start up the car (may be a little hard to start, but it will fire up). Get the RPM bad to steady and then unplug the hose and suck the rest of the can of seafoam into the engine. Once the can is empty, remove the vacuum hose from the engine and immediately install the brake booster hose into the intake. Close the hood and go for a drive. By this time, you should be seeing tons of white smoke coming from your car. This is the Seafoam burning off and hopefully converting some of the carbon to a gas. I have found shifting the J-gate to say 2 or 3 and getting the engine RPMs up to around 4,000 RPM or so will help push a lot of the gunk out of the engine and help get your exhaust back to blowing clear again in the shortest amount of time. You will probably be blowing some amount of white smoke for about 10 minutes (hence why I said be out in the middle of no where). Then see what the emissions/codes look like then.

The vehicles that I saw no effect from, I ran the can of Seafoam through the engine and got very little smoke out of the exhaust. So, what you get will be very black/white as I see it.

 

If you still have this I would love to see it. Could you post it or send it to me? Thanks!

 

Gentlemen, PM me your e-mail address and I will forward on the diagrams. If you need any other info, request what you would like. If I have it, I will pass it on.

 

Hi there,

this is my Jag:
Jaguar X-type


Any opinion much appreciated!

Kind regards,
George

 

I'm not able to get any info on where is the fuse for the cigarette lighter.
1.nowhere to be seen
2.nobody's know a s...
3. car manuel says fuse p68 and that thing is just not existing
is there ANYONE who know hot to find that fuse(in the car service's didn't know 3 of them)

 

It would help greatly if you put the vehicle information in your signature. If you are working on a pre 2004 then go to response number 3 on this thread and you will find both the fuse box layouts and a complete list of the fuses.
If yours is a late model 2004 then log into Jagrepair.com and download the wiring diagrams for your car.
Pre 2004 is fuse 68. It is located in the passenger compartment fuse box. The fuse box is next to your left knee when seated on the left side of the vehicle. It is easier to access it when you remove the change cubby in the dashboard. Makes everything easier to get at.

 

Here's pdf's of wiring diagrams, including fuse box schematics, before and after the April 2004 change:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4-25-a-152076/

 

Where can I find the fusebox and list of the fuses function? I have a power seat on a 2004 xkr with Recaro seats that just stopped today after going all the way back.

 

Start in the right forum

Get Handbook where it says - free.
And/or workshop manual - also free.

 

I was sick of the poor quality version s of the fuse diagrams so I made a high quality version, you can zoom in and the details don't pixelate.. Enjoy
Paul.