My wife's 2004 with 56K miles has thrown this code (cylinder misfire detected-cylinder #2) twice within the last three months. The first time I just cleared the code and everything was fine until yesterday when the CEL came on again. The engine runs smooth so if it's a vacuum leak then it must be a small one. Has anyone else had this problem. Which cylinder is #2? Thanks.

 

Razkid, cylinder #2 is the middle cylinder on the back side of the engine (up against the fire wall). Unfortunately, to get to the spark plug, you have to remove the top half of the intake. Based on the code, you know it is a misfire. This is normally caused by either a plug going bad or a coil going bad. While there is only 56K miles on the car, changing the plugs wouldn't be a bad idea. That would help narrow down where the problem could be. I would also move the questionable coil up to say cylinder #5. That way, if it is the coil that is bad, replacing the coil is nothing more than removing the airbox and replacing the coil then. Much easier to do later on.

 

I wish I was Thermo's brother lol.

 

I wish I was Thermos' neighbour!

 

Thanks Thermo! Is there a gasket that needs to be replaced when removing the intake mainfold? Anything to watch for or tips in removing it? How are the cylinders numbered?
krisleslie and sidewalkman- I am Thermo's brother and live next door to him but he told me the only way he'll answer my questions is through this forum. Just kidding!

 

Razkid, as for removing the intake, it isn't a hard job, just a few hidden bolts. First, if you look between the intake and the firewall, you will find two 10mm bolts. Remove those. Next, remove all the lines running to the intake (brake booster line and a few near the brake booster). Next, unplug the intake temp sensor (top center) and the two IMT valves (passenger side of the intake). Next, remove the 4 bolts holding the throttlebody to the intake (this will prevent you from having to drain the coolant system). From there, remove the bolts holding the top half of the intake to the motor and rotate the intake out of the way.

As for things that need to be replaced, there are none. Granted, since you are in this far, replacing the intake rubber gasket that you just exposed is not a bad idea. It is reuseable, but some don't consider it. It is pretty cheap at like $15. The other thing I will tell you to do is to get some rags or something and plug/cover the intake holes. This will prevent a major "Where's Waldo" search of the engine internals should you happen to drop something.

As for the cylinder numbering, if you stand next to the front passenger wheel and then look at the engine, the left cylinder nearest you is #1, with #2 and #3 along the firewall as they go away from you. Then on the right side of the motor (nearest the radiator), #4 is nearest you with #5 and #6 being the cylinders as they go away from you.

If you need any more information, let me know. On a lighter note, you guys know that if you let me know, you can stop by my house any time. LMAO.

 

Thanks Thermo. I'll order the gasket and dig into it.

 

Autozone lists a Felpro intake plenum set of six oval gaskets (o-rings) for the 3.0 engine. Is that what I need? The lower intake set includes what looks like the same six gaskets with a half round bump out on one of the long sides of each gasket.

 

Thermo- You said the cylinder numbers are 1-3 on the left side and 4-6 on the right. The JTIS shows 1,3,5 on left (from front of engine and 2,4,6 on the other bank. The JTIS says this cylinder numbering is for a 2002. Did the numbering change between the 2002 and 2004? I don't want to change out the wrong coil pack!

 

Razkid, sorry about that, you are correct. #2 cylinder is the one on the front side of the engine (nearest the radiator), nearest the alternator/serpentine belt. I always get the numbering systems mixed up between the Jag and my Ford truck.

 

Great! That means I don't have to take the intake off. Anyone want to buy some gaskets?! I'll probably end up changing the sparkplugs anyway so will use them. I disconnected the negative cable for at least two hours but the CEL was still on when I started it. I don't notice any skip whe driving and it idles smooth. Shouldn't the CEL reset when the cable is removed for that long?

 

Raz, yes, the CEL will clear if the problem is gone after disconnecting the battery like you did. So, that is telling me that you have a problem that is not random or periodic. start with the COP and see what you can find there. Could be something as silly as you have gotten some carbon build up on the plug and that is causing it to run funny as it relates to what the computer is seeing. I would also do a visual of the top of the COP to see if you can find any cracks. If a COP is going to go, it will normally start with a crack in the top.

 

Thank you Thermo. My 03 X-Type has 7 check-engine codes I need to research including cylinder 2, 3, 5, 6 misfires. To get started I needed to learn their locations. So, thank you very much, I'm off and running. Albeit slowly...

 

Thermo, could I confirm the correct cylinder locations for a 2003 X-Type w/2.5 motor? Viewing motor from passenger side, standing next to right front wheel...starting on my left (against firewall), closest to me, they are numbered, 1, 3, and 5. Then on my right (nearest to radiator), they are numbered 2, 4, and 6. Is that correct?

 

Scotti, you are correct. Nearest the firewall is cylinders 1, 3, and 5 with 1 being nearest you and on the radiator side, you have 2, 4, and 6 with 2 being nearest you.