After going through the atcuators, I am a bit puzzled that the "air blend" "recirc" could cause this hot cold ac problem. If the shaft is a "D" shaft how can that slip? I didn't look in that because it must be removed braile, as it is mirrored from the 3 others.

Besides, the bottom actuator is the hot cold blend actuator. Those are hex shaft but I noticed that when you bump up or down the temp setting, it pulses opening or closing the door ever so slightly. But the thing fully opens and closes on my unit. So unless it is a controller problem, I need to flush the system and start over to fix the shoddy job the mobile mechanic I used did. The automotive repair state agency is now looking for him as he skipped town over a 300 dollar job. WOW! I imagine there is a que of ac clients ticked off at him.

Nevertheless, I have disconnected the bottom actuator from the electric holding it in cold. I realize an easy cheep fix is to remove this, put rig a hex nut with a lever accessable from the glove box and you can simply shift it into hot or cold and bypass the computor command. You only need to shift it in the winter and summer, like the old days.

But at least I have now isolated the issue. I have taken video of this area, and it is easy to get to removing the glove box. I also disabled the sun sensor part of the ac per tsb.

All I need is to find an appropiate filter for the commercial flushing agent. It says you can filter the fluid in order to get "30 minute" flush.

Removing the compressor, accumulator and orafice was done in my presence in about 30 to 45 min. It was a pieace of cake. Only they ignored all the other protocal insisting it was overkill. It rubbed me the wrong way, but I didn't stop it, so my fault.

Be careful when hiring out. If they don't flush insisting their expensive "robinair" flushes, even with the components installed, run! They didn't change the o rings or even torque the bolts. I was missing some body panel bolts they failed to torque. Hey it was hot and they seemed capable, live and learn.

 

Do you still have the video available?

Regards

Vikingdon

 

I completely went through my AC on 2002. I disconnected computer to see that it wasn't that issue, it wasn't. So all the blending functions were not the problem. The recirc worked fine. I hired a guy to put a new compressor, accumulator, orifice, oil, and Freon. He used a big expensive machine, it worked for a few days and failed. I took it to another shop and he said that r 22 was mixed with r 12, and now the state is looking for that mobile guy that did mine. He skipped town.


So I ordered a new accumulator and orifice. I removed them and flushed the system with a flush kit. I then took serious the TSB which says to "weight exactly" the grams of Freon and measure the oil.


I put all the parts together again, pulled a vacuum and now I have lovely cool air! I think the parts were about 400 bucks from discountac.com


Getting the orifice tube out is a task, you have to weld a tool together out of a box wrench with a section removed from the box part to fit around the pipe. Also take the wheel well plastic and passenger front tire completely off. Put the accumulator in a vertical position and then turn it horizontal.


If you just add Freon, the oil amount mixture with Freon is not accurate, and the physics is not correct so its a turkey shoot if the thing will cool. You have to start from scratch if you can't get lucky with a charge. See the TSB


Have fun, I did! My Ranger AC then died! That was a breeze, and the air was coming out at 32F. Brrrr. and that job went fast!