Quick question.
We all agree that the Transfer case is probably the weak link here in our cars when adding more power.

My latest quest on this was looking at the awd system on the xj and the xf and seeing if I could swap out the drive train. (just started looking)

so brings me to my nest thought
Why not just take the TC out of the equation and go with Front wheel drive.

change out the tranny for say the Mazda tranny I have seen some articles on supercharging the duratec 3.0 on the Mazda forums.

and yes I too have been looking at how we can get more power purely because people say "It can not be done"


ok guys let the bashing begin "its not an X if its not AWD"

 

Paul, you have a good point and yes, you can do what you are suggesting. The big thing that you will need to do is to make sure that you swap out the rear spindles for a set that have no shaft running through them. I say this because I have heard reports that if you run the hub assemblies without the half shaft in them (which you would remove when converting over to FWD), the hub assemblies will eat themselves in no time flat. The half shaft is part of the support that the hub requires to function properly and for a long time. The other option would be to simply dismantle the CV joint and leave the end of the CJ shaft in the hub and remove the rest.

The only other question I would have then is whether the transfer case support bracket is strong enough to do what you are after with the transfer case removed. That is another one of those unknowns. I am looking at getting under my car here in the near future, I may ponder that question and see if I think it is capable of doing this.

 

I wonder if the R model Volvo might offer some bits to beef up the drive train? My 2004 V70R AWD 6 MT had in excess in 300 HP and was trouble free other than the clutch slave cylinder. Many R owners modified their cars for much greater HP.

 

the kit for the cougar may work with some small modifications.
Battery relocation, front cat is in it's way, may have to cut to fit cooler

would the x-type body bolt onto the supercharged V8 s-type chassis?

 

Here ya go, a super charged X Type.....or so they say. I think it's a hoax, but came across this while surfing Craigslist:
04 JAGUAR X-Type AWD Super Charged - Excellent Condition - No Rust...!

If it is not a hoax maybe you guys could contact him and see what they did. I am thinking if it was real they would have showed the engine and the cr would have looked more sporty. But, you never know........

 

Chris.
you are correct about killing the bearings.I was not going to go that far I would simply just going to remove the prop shaft at the rear diff (i believe its only held on by 8 bolts could be wrong have not spent much time near the diff........ yet) remove the carrier bearing and split the shaft from the TC case (8 Allen bolts) and leave the diff and rear drive assembly intact.

 

Ok.
throwing this out there.
Now I know nothing about this but would converting to propane or LPG with a supercharger or turbo solve the compression issue?

sorry just been reading about a guy who added nos to his propane setup.

would definitely solve the fuel pump issue

 

Paul, doing a little bit of research, the octane rating (ie, resistance to burning) for propane is in the neighborhood of 100 to 110. So, from a fuel perspective, it would be better than gasoline (except racing fuel as that normally has a rating of 115). Now, would it be good enough to allow you to run say 15 pounds of boost, not sure. More than likely it would be fine for say 6 pounds of boost or something of the like in stock form.

The big thing that you need to keep in mind is that what causes problems with super/turbo-charging is that gases can undergo spontaneous combustion by too rapid of a pressure increase. What I mean by this is you are forcing fuel and air into an enclosed area, sealing it off, then moving the internals to reduce the space. This causes the gas to be compressed and have its pressure rise. So, for example, on our cars in stock form, the cylinder may go from say -7 psi of pressure up to 100 psi on a normal stroke (numbers are close, but may not reflect actual conditions). This is fine for a high compression engine. Now, you start supercharging, the cylinder will fill to say 3 psi (assuming running 6 psi boost), but when you compress that, the cylinder pressures may jump up to 300 psi. This more rapid rise in pressure creates a lot more friction in the gases and causes them to heat up. This additional heat can become enough to cause the fuel to commence burning without a spark. This is commonly called pre-detonation or knocking.

 

Jaguar AJ-V6 is Duratec with different upper intake manifold and VVT and 2.5 Duratec with stock internals handled 16 psi of boost and made 450 hp. I think he used a mix of methanol and pump gas. I don't know how easily you could get E85 in the states but that would work fine.

Another solution would be water/methanol injection when you have a certain amount of boost. You have a little extra tank under the hood with a mix of water and methanol and if you run out of it you could just fill up with screen wash fluid which has like 40 or 50% methanol in it.

And if you want to do things right (could add better fuel and water/methanol injection for more power) then part list for internals with prices:

Tri-Metal bearing kit for mains and rods - $119
Forged pistons 8.5:1 - $999
Forged rods - $599
ARP cylinder studs and nuts - $209
Total - $1926

 

I contacted the guy, turns out he thought the S on the Gearbox standed for Supercharged. Yeah, it's a hoax.

 

E85-Florida | E85 Vehicles
that's where we can get e85 (in Florida at least, but there's options for other states too.)

 

Looking at that map it wouldn't be a problem to run E85. You don't get as good MPG but price is cheaper and resistance to self ignition is similar to a racing fuel. (E85 is actually used in racing)

 

I already get under 15mpg the way I drive, AND gas is about $1.89 (probably 1.2 Pounds or 1.35 Euros) per gallon (4 litres) so E85 sounds good, how much do you think it could increase performance by?

 

Just switching to E85 without doing anything to the engine won't get you much, some cars even lose power. Go with E85 either when you turbocharge it or with N/A that has high compression.

 

And make sure E85 won't destroy any hoses, O rings, etc.

I'd avoid it.

 

Jaguar owners manual says you can use 10% ethanol and 3% methanol. Methanol can cause some corrosion. Never used E85 in my X-Type cause there's no need for that, but should try that out sometime maybe even tho ecu isn't tuned for that and result in power should be negative without any mods. We tried E85 in XJR R6 without any mods and it was terrible, ecu should be programmed for that.

You should have higher compression ratio or turbo charger to make use of E85.

 

a very valid point also if I remember correctly propane converts back to a liquid at around 200 psi so we would run the risk of hydrolocking the cylinder.

 

RUnning of E85 in a car not properly programmed for it will cause potential damage to the car. In short, E85 being run in a car programmed for E10 fuel will cause the motor to run rich. When you look at normal gasoline (ie, E10), it has an air/fuel mixture ratio of 14.7:1. So, you need 14.7 times the air than you do fuel to obtain a proper fuel mixture. In the case of E85, it is 9.7:1, or 9.7 times the air to fuel being added.

One of the benefits of running E85 is that the flame of the fuel is at a lower temp than what straight gasoline is. This is beneficial in a few ways. The big one being that because the flame is burning cooler, you are less likely to damage engine parts due to heat. The second being that because the cylinder is burning "cooler", the likelihood of pre-detonation due to compression issues is less as you have the fuel further away from it auto combustion point.

Now, the negative. Because the E85 burns cooler, it is because it doesn't have as much energy per pound as say gasoline does. Therefore, you have to dump more fuel into the cylinder to get the same power output. With this being said, you can actually dump in enough of the E85 to make more power yet keep cylinder conditions in a good state as compared to a pure gasoline engine. hence why people convert over to E85 for racing vehicles.

 

It would be much easier and cheaper to just lower the compression via different pistons or you could cheap out and try thicker head gaskets, although under boost that could be a problem over the long run. If you are looking to run more than like 5 or 6 psi of boost then you might as well change the pistons out, and then you'd also have new rings, which is nice when you are forcing more air into those cylinders. If I were building a turbo x type (and I might one day) I'd buy myself a used 3.0 for cheap, buy some pistons that will be stronger and lower the compression, rebuild the whole engine with new rings, gaskets and bearing, and get some short headers like the MSDS headers for a contour (since I don't think you can buy OBX headers anymore, although I have a set already) and try using a piggyback tuner like a power FC or something so I could used the stock gauges and whatnot. Although I do not know if the latter will work with the jag ECU, but it should. Oh and of course all the needed turbo hardware. I wouldn't even bother with those contour/cougar kits since they won't be a bolt in thing anyway. I would just piece together my own "kit" by buying the best individual parts to make the whole setup high quality. It would probably be cheaper. As for the transfer case, I'm willing to bet that as long as you aren't hard core launching your car from a dead stop like its a drag racer it will probably be ok, keeping in mind that once you add more power, EVERYTHING will wear out fasterif it has to do with making the power, controlling the power, or distribution of the power. Oh oh, and since I have a 5 speed, I'd get a better clutch and a lighter flywheel, I hate the heavy flywheel in this thing, its great for slow parking lot driving but sucks for performance driving.

 

Contour flywheel is a straight fit when looking for a lighter one, also it has wide range of performance clutches available.

As for original gauges, they get info over CAN network and many today's programmable ECUs can be connected to CAN so getting gauges work shouldn't be a big problem.