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Well, I got 'er done and no leaks. I found it somewhat of a tough job but if you pay close attention to setting the clamps on the hoses and squaring them up so they seal well; you're done!
I tried like hell to get the C shaped plate in place but it would not fit. I think the new hose assembly covers the role of the C plate or, "re-enforcing plate". After fighting with it for 20 mins, I noticed a couple of tabs that stopped the C plate from settling into place. I ended up omitting it.
This pic is taken while laying under the car looking sky-wards. Not sure if you can see the nub in the pick, but I pointed it out.
The heavy flange above is where the C plate won't fit. However, it seemed to have an extra layer of 2mm thick plastic at the same location where the C plate goes. Who knows if this is meant for that same reinforcing? But I'm driving and my temp is steady..... I bought orange coolant at a Ford dealership. It happens to be right next door to the Jag/Land Rover dealership. I figured that the same coolant would be cheaper at the Ford dealer.
Hi fellas,
I'm glad I found this after a lot of searching, can anyone update me on this, you can refer to my thread: Coolant leak 2.5 X~Type
My worry is if I source the upper radiator hose and fit it myself, my bruv has stated I need to watch the torque level when I attach the reinforcemant plate to the alluminium block which I think is the water pump? I am stuck for the moment and would appreciate any advice? Thanks, Stu
I also thank all of you for this helpful info and the pic is ideal for helping myself and others! A Big Cheers to you all!
I don't recall a torque spec for the flange in the pic just above. However, that would be nice to know, but make sure it's official because you don't want to over torque and crack or over stress the plastic flange.
Mine actually has a slow leak at that flange, but the other 2 connections are good. I re-tightened it once, but I'm just kind of living with it for now
I now have the Jag in the garage and will say a prayer to winning the lotto to pay for it.
What really bugs me is the Scottish weather who plotted against me in making it quite tough to "do" the car myself (amongst the usual daily chores butting in!!).
My baby is in the garage now so I'll wait it out.
But, thanks again, I appreciate the info and much needed help!
Hope your connections hold tight, Patterson, Enjoy the ride!
Thanks again Guys!
Regards,
Stu
Well, I got 'er done and no leaks. I found it somewhat of a tough job but if you pay close attention to setting the clamps on the hoses and squaring them up so they seal well; you're done!
I tried like hell to get the C shaped plate in place but it would not fit. I think the new hose assembly covers the role of the C plate or, "re-enforcing plate". After fighting with it for 20 mins, I noticed a couple of tabs that stopped the C plate from settling into place. I ended up omitting it.
This pic is taken while laying under the car looking sky-wards. Not sure if you can see the nub in the pick, but I pointed it out.
The heavy flange above is where the C plate won't fit. However, it seemed to have an extra layer of 2mm thick plastic at the same location where the C plate goes. Who knows if this is meant for that same reinforcing? But I'm driving and my temp is steady..... I bought orange coolant at a Ford dealership. It happens to be right next door to the Jag/Land Rover dealership. I figured that the same coolant would be cheaper at the Ford dealer.
My mechanic friend is right now under my car as I type this, I got the same assembly you got, hes having a hard time dealing with it, but right now looks like hes in the process of placing the new part.
I will have a look when I get under the car again but, I have been busy. The plate was there before the garage did the fix, I hope it's still there. That is the daft thing I do when I'm busy, i SHOULD HAVE LOOKED! I used a new garage as I'm new to my area and I would like to think if they had an issue or couldn't refit that plate they should have said, but you never know!!! Good Luck!!! Stu
I'd be curious to know if your mechanic was able to re-install this piece, or whether your car has it at all..thanks!
My car has it, and the thermostat assembly that I bought at my Jaguar dealer came already with the part installed on it, a band new C shape metal plate. I got the part for $112.00
I replaced the thermo. housing w/Oring then a month later the pipe (upper radiator hose) split right at where the torn off label is in the previous photo.I got the whole piece ( upper hose,thermo. housing,and down pipe,gasket to the block). Kind of a fun project, not to hard(difficult rating of 4 on a 1 to10) My son's 02 ford ranger needs plugs now there's a beeotch. Probably 4 to 5 hours with no skin or knuckles left.Have to remove tires and inner wheel wells for # 5 & 6. Can't wait.
I just got done doing this bought the OEM entire upper assembly include the thermostat and the part that attaches to the engine block. Apparently my C thingamabob did not come off and I didnt even see that when I attached the new one. The bolts were a pain to get to but no leaks and its been 4 days and some warm days in the desert.
I need to do this repair as well. Since I replaced my coolant tank and flushed the coolant, it drove fine for 2 weeks then started giving a Check engine light every few days (P0128 coolant thermostat, p1000, and n/a). I've been clearing the codes, and they kept returning. I drained and refilled the coolant with fresh Prestone hoping it was getting a bad reading from the stop-leak I used, but it returned. After doing some reading I found the x-types have problematic thermostats. I decided to go ahead and get the whole hose assembly, since it was recommended because that part is prone to leaking. I am waiting for the hose and thermostat to arrive. I thought I needed some gasket sealant, but from the reading I did today, no one mentions using any type of gasket sealer in the install. I was wondering if the thermostat came with a gasket or needed a gasket, but I thought I remembered reading about gasket sealer the other day. Can anyone tell me if this is needed? The installation looks pretty tricky, but I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure it out. I replaced the coolant tank myself and thought that was the end of my problems but now the dang thermostat is on the fritz. Anyways, going to replace that and drain the the coolant again and will keep my fingers crossed that fixes the problem. Still have a lot of work to do on the suspension right now too so I'm pretty busy working on the car.
Got my nice new radiator hose and thermostat from the dealership and I am all geared up and ready to try to install it. Got a package of thermostat sealant and a(nother) bottle of Prestone. Been going through a lot of coolant lately with the coolant tank replacement and now this. It looks tricky but I am going to get it figured out. Hoping I can do it with the tools I have. I also have to replace my control arms but to begin with I think I am going to try to get this hose installed.
Hey 04X, just a note - you're going to need a long socket extension and a swivel bit to loosen/tighten the nuts that hold the large flange pieces together.
Ok thanks. I wasn't sure if they were needed, but I was at the hardware store today looking around. Decided to tackle my front control arms first. Did not go that smoothly. Eventually got one installed an it seemed to drive better without the rattling on that side. Almost gave up though and have them tow it off, but pulled through in the end. Still one side to do then I will tackle the thermostat issue. It's like a part-time job.
After working on my control arms I took the car around the block for a test drive and when I got back I got under the car and noticed dripping coming out from the front of the engine, around the thermostat area, and verified that it was coolant. Didn't look for sure where it was coming from but it was right in the thermostat area so I am almost positive that is what it is, since I've been getting that p0128 code. So it looks like my thermostat and probably top radiator hose is bad, and that leaking would explain why the coolant has dropped to the minimum mark a few times. Probably going to have to wait til the weekend again to do the install so I will have to keep an eye on my coolant level throughout the week.
My 2003 3.0 is having the same issue of "split the T-pipe on the seam" that everyone else has written about here. Mine took place after the water pump tensioner pulley bearing failed and the belt jumped, which led to overheating (at least when an 18yr old is driving it it does). Replacing the tensioner and belt was the easy part.
Took me an hour to get the correct combo of extensions and wobbly and 13mm socket to get at the one thermostat housing bolt, as others have also said. So then I thought, great, late in the day, pop that thing off and get the new one on and... nooo... it runs into the radiator fan!!
It was somewhat uplifting to read that others have had the same problem and managed to get the thing off, so I will attempt that tomorrow. IT's supposed to rain all day, so that is appropriate, as the Jag has rained on most of my weekend anyway, as it has several other times.
Thanks to everyone for sharing their pain and ideas!
my 2003 with 110,xxx just did that very same thing. the water pump tensioner pulley disintegrated, causing the belt to jump off and fray. I was able to pull over almost immediately, never got a warning light. Highest temp gauge ever reached was the 3/4 mark, usually runs at 1/2 way or slightly below. after I pulled over I was able to see all my coolant evaporate out in a steady stream of steam. I have ordered the replacement pulley and belt, but worry something may be leaking due to the aforementioned incident. I would like any information you could offer about the location where your t pipe split, if possible. thanks
It's right underneath the air box. With a flash light you can start to see the pipe and hoses, but you really need to pull the air box to inspect for a cracked T pipe.
Not to revive a long dead thread but I was reading this over before tackling my coolant leak over the weekend and I didn't see a successful explanation of "couple of tabs that stopped the C plate from settling into place". Looking at the part I removed I concluded the tabs need to be bent up and the C plate or reinforcing plate wedged underneath them. Those plastic tabs hold the plate in place during assembly. See picture.
04-20-2012, 10:32 PM
Thanks Patterson and all who contributed!
