Hello,

Just been reading and searching the entire forum and google, trying to figure out the following:

2004 Jaguar X-Type Sport Edition 3.0 V6 Gas 5 Speed Manual 80,000 Miles.

These lights are on:

• ABS
• DSC (Traction Control)
• Check Engine
• Brake light
• AirBag light (Not worried about this waiting on an airbag module)

These are the codes I get using Engineering Self Test (Press and hold the stalk trip cycle button whilst turning the ignition from position 0 to position II, until'TEST' or 'ENGINEERING TEST MODE’ is displayed on the Message Centre display. The stalk trip cycle button must be released within three seconds of 'ENGINEERING TEST MODE’ being displayed or the instrument cluster will exit Self- Diagnostic mode.)

• DTC 9359
• DTC A879
• DTC A627
• DTC D900
• DTC 5922
• DTC 5924
• DTC 9318

Speedometer does not work at all, stays at 0 does not move.

Odometer does not display miles only (-----) dashes.


Codes I get using AutoZone OBD2

• P0646
• P0102
• P0112
• P1338
• P1637
• P1699
• P1111

Story behind this, I got this car from auction with light front damage (thus airbag light still on working on module replacement). When I first got the car it had ALL the symptoms described above PLUS it did NOT start. I charged the battery and found out that my climate control and radio did not work either. So after some digging figured out that inertia switch was tripped so I reset it and at ONCE it started up and everything worked PERFECT. No lights were showing except for airbag, odometer displayed mileage and no check engine light/abs/dsc/hand break, it was perfect and i was very happy.

However after having the car repaired (front damage bumper, hood, headlight, basic stuff) the first described sympthoms returned check engine light/abs/dsc/hand break light/Odometer not working/speedometer not working.

However the car starts and runs fine I am able to drive it.

***Things I have tried***

• Checked all fuses - OK
• Checked exciter rings in the back axes, they are rusted not too much and secure.
• Replaced battery with new one
• Replaced a bad front left wheel bearing (correct one with magnetic strip facing the engine)
• Checked positive and negative cables from battery to starter no damage.
• Checked voltage of battery before starting 12v after starting 14.7v

I suspect that there must be some kind of wiring issue (short, ground) since all of this went away then came right back after repair.

Any help and ideas would be really appreciated.

I have downloaded and used many resources from this website and I have all the manuals, just need the know-how and some expertise to figure this out.

Thank you all.

 

SoldierII, from the sounds of things, you have a problem with the CAN BUS network in the car. This is what is giving you the ABS lights, the air bag lights, the CEL, and the instrument cluster indications. It does not however explain the A/C clutch problem easily (could be something with the CAN BUS Network not providing accurate information to the ECM, which would then affect the clutch, but that is a bit of a stretch). I would say you need to have someone look over the CAN BUS Network of the car and get that straightened out first. That will hopefully only leave you with 1 or 2 codes at that point and then we can fix those at a later time.

 

Thermo,

I have read a lot of your post, really appreciate your work.

Do you know of any "Common" things to look for when dealing with a CAN BUS network issues?

 

SoldierII, I bet your front end damage is on the right (passenger) front corner, isn't it? Based on your issues, I would be looking at the ABS module. That is located in the engine bay, behind the passenger side headlight. The CAN BUS is connected to this and based on what you have said are the problems with your car, your most likely place to have an issue is right there.

 

I have found some testing procedures for the module and they call to check FUSE #15 and #75.

I found #15 but cannot locate #75. My fuse box in side the car on driver side goes up to F55.

Is there a Fuse #75 on 2004 Jaguar X-Type 3.0 sport manual?

 

SoldierII, you have a late model 2004, not an early 2004. The fuses are different for the late model cars (revamp of the electrical system occurred in March 2004). You want to look at fuse F13 and F41. Both of these should be in the engine compartment fuse box.

 

I just looked over the car and inspected the driver side headlight harness. What I found:

red/green and orange/yellow wires were cut!

After I repaired these 2 wires then reset battery (10min) started the car and cleared codes and then after 15min idle I went on test drive about 5 minutes with all range of speed.

The only code that showed up right away and stayed on is:

P1637

What can I do to troubleshoot this code?

Speedometer still not working
Odometer still displaying ------
ABS light on
DSC/Traction light on
Break light on
Check engine (P1637)
Air bag light on

ALSO found out today that my reverse (backup) light does NOT turn on when going in reverse. What can cause this? Bulbs are good. Is this due to BRAKE light on or ABS/DSC light?

 

Have most of the same issues going on with mine. The ABS and traction control lights have been on for over a year. Have had wheel speed sensor replaced on one of the wheels - didn't fix the problem.

Occasionally in the past, I have had the tachometer temporarily stop working but it's always been brief and started working again on next time I started the engine.

Within the last few weeks, my speedometer has also started to go out occasionally and, when it does, the odometer also stops working and the e-brake light comes on though the e-brake is not actually on. (The last time all these were happening, the speedometer and odometer came back on while I was driving, and the ebrake light went off. Fun part was all the car doors locked at same time, and when I used the brakes a few seconds after, the ABS engaged a little unnecessarily.

The tachometer remains working fine. Oddly, my thermostat which shows external ambient temperature will also go completely haywire at times. Running from showing 60 degrees Fahrenheit to 120 Fahrenheit when it is in fact 40 degrees outside, for example.

Don't have any problems with my clutch that I know of. There is a shudder when I change gear and let the clutch out but I'm told that has something to do with the differential and play due to wear.

What did you end up having to do to fix all the speedometer, odometer, ABS, traction control issues?

Question for anyone else on the forum... need recommendation for a shop in the DC metro area. Maryland preferable but DC/VA would be fine. Thanks.

 

 

Hey guys,

Just a final update on mine, the final fix was a disconnected ground wire around the engine block. It has been years since the issue and I no longer have the car.

Advice to all here, get the car manual, go to electrical section, find every single ground cable that is in the engine compartment and make sure they are not cut, nor disconnected. This resolved every single issue I described here.

Good luck.