Unless you modify your transfer case you will kill it if you try to get to much out of these cars. Even with stock power you can have issues

Like Justink201 was saying there are ways to use the Mazda ecu and even a supercharger for the Mazda https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-x-type-91449/ but all would be moot unless you had a modded transfer case.

 

I want to replace the in dash radio. Any suggestions?

 

There was some chap on the UK forum who had bought a 2nd hand Arden-tuned X-Type. If I remember correctly it had over 300bhp and he reported no issues with transfer case. I'm under the impression that what kills the drivetrain in any AWD car is full-throttle take-offs, so maybe it had been driven responsibly.

 

rkenney, upgrading the radio in the dash can be very simple or it can be very complicated with these cars. If you have the basic radio (ie, non NAV), you can drop just about whatever radio you want into the dash. The opening is capable of handling up to a double DIN radio. So, that would leave you with the option of adding in a Nav based radio or whatever else you want to put in there. You could even do a PC based setup with a 7" screen.

When it comes to the Nav based radios, the heat-A/C controls are built into the radio. So, you would have to overcome that hurdle (possible to retro-fit back to the basic heater-A/C setup) and then the options are again unlimited. If you keep the factory radio with the Nav, then you can either add on the audio control module (allows connecting up an MP3 player) or you would need to find a new location (glove box or possibly the ash tray if you had a shallow mount radio) to mount a radio and then build the system from there.

 

Good point, I'm sure how you drive it would effect how it lasts (even stock hp), and frankly I haven't seen a single x type make over 300hp (proven) anyway other than the few unicorn ones like the Arden one you mentioned. And I haven't seen any transfer case failures because of too much power. It makes me think (and hope) that people just think they wont handle the power because either jaguar said it wont (and we all know how honest Jag has been about x type drive trains, like life-time sealed trans...) or because they just haven't seen one with 300+hp. Personally I hope to test this 300hp theory some day. I've been looking into building a 300hp 3L duratec v6 since I bought a SVT contour like 6 years ago, that's gone so I want to build one for my X.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...01/#post630171

J Nothelle developed a supercharger for the X-Type:
"The specialist trainer changes Jaguar offers a muscular version of the Jaguar X-Type. The project, which originally was to be conducted by the manufacturer, was finally told Nothelle. Based on a 3.0 16v, the X-type is characterized by a 310 hp engine developing a torque of 350 Nm With this engine, this Jaguar reaches 275 km / h top speed and reaches 0-100 km / h in 5.4 seconds. These improvements are complemented by a specific braking system, a body kit, a new exhaust system and 19-inch wheels. Preparation for English owners unbridled."
J Nothelle website here!

Here's apparently one such car:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/718348...jaguar-x-type/

 

While those are interesting, such little real information is given, and none have any pictures of these superchargers. It disappoints me. I've been looking at a few threads about turbo awd Fusions (they have 3L duratecs too), they seem to handle over 300hp fine but I haven't yet found out if they have the same transfer case or not. I'm going to look into mk4 Mondeos too. That's how I found a short shifter that works just fine in my x type. I kind of think there just aren't many x type owners looking to heavily modify their cars so not many have taken a lot of time to research what could really be done to one. This car is honestly one of my dream cars so I plan on keeping it, and modifying it as much as I can to get the most out of it. I hope to start autocrossing by the fall, and I really want to start going to HPDE track days shortly after that.

 

Not just that, but hey are expensive as hell as well. It rhymes, yo!
But indeed, dropping way over $10k on a +80ish horsepower for an X-Type seems like madness considering what the cars are worth these days. That's over $125 per horse

As yours is a 2.5 just like mine, wouldn't your first logical course of action in power-hunting be an engine swap to 3.0?

I'm under the impression there are issues regarding turbocharging the AJ25/AJ30, someone on this very forum mentioned that the high compression ratio makes it unsuitable for that.

 

Yes, the X-Type motors are running a 10.5:1 compression ratio for both the 2.5L and 3.0L motors (or something very close). If you are looking to turbo or supercharge the motors, you need to drop the compression down to around 9.0:1 or even possibly a little less. Not doing so will either lead to lots of pre-detonation problems or the requiring of running racing gas (115 octane fuel). So, doing the supercharger/turbo upgrade is not going to be a simple "bolt on" upgrade. There will need to be lots of changes that need to be made unless you keep the boost very low (then you are limiting the power gains). The motor itself is capable of big power, but like was mentioned, unless you do some upgrades to the transfer case, you will not get that power to the ground for very long before the transfer case gives up. From reading here, the fix could be as simple as rebuilding the transfer case and putting the proper loading on the bearings so as not to have them overly stressed from the build. If you do some looking around, there is supposedly a kit you can buy with new spacers that apply the proper pre-load to allow long life under harsh conditions.

 

I do indeed plan on getting a 3.0 when I actually build an engine for my car to try to make 300hp. My car also has about 170k so I'm sure in a few years, I'll need to start rebuilding one. I don't know if I even want to build a boosted engine though, I'd honestly rather get to 300hp N/A by porting/polishing/bore and stroking a 3.0. Theres a company called Nautilus performance that actually sells 3.0 duratec blocks that are bored and stroked to 3.5 and even 4.0L. Either way I'd be getting new pistons and changing the compression ratio, depending on if I boost or not. Theres also SVT contour cams for the duratec V6 that support higher rpms. I don't think getting to 300hp N/A would be hard, its just a matter of getting the right parts and work done. I know it wont be cheap, but like I said, I've wanted an x type for YEARS and now that I have one, I'm keeping it and I will be building it up as much as I can. I already have almost more money in aftermarket parts as I spent to buy the car anyway. If after I make 300hp if my transfer case gives out, I'll look into where and how it failed and go from there to improve it. I've read about the case itself being weak and flexing, and about the bearings not having the proper load so we'll see. I'll honestly probably buy an extra transfer case when I put the new engine in just in case. Sadly I'm on a limited budget right now, as are most of us, so I'm really just planning my engine now and slowly improving the suspension and brakes and "easy" things. There isn't a lot of suspension parts "for" the x type, but the front and rear suspension share parts (almost all of them) with Mazda 3 and 5, ford focus and Volvo s40 and V50 so the parts are out there, but it seems I'll have to be the guinea pig and see if they really will fit the x type.

 

Justink201, if you ever find sway bars that fit our car, that maybe are designed for a Mazda or Ford or whatever, PLEASE message me and let me know. I'm also on KW coilovers and I'm dying to get sway bars to finish up the handling aspect of the car.

 

I've been looking into that since I got my KWs, if I find a set that work I'll post a thread showing that they fit. It looks as if for the rear sway bar a focus bar should work, since it looks like the bars are the same, just mounted the opposite way on the focus. I'm not sure about the front, and since you basically have to drop the front subframe to install it I'll probably do the rear first. I might not even bother with a front bar, I found a set of front endlinks that are pretty beefy and adjustable so I might just upgrade those, and upgrade the bushings to ploy and be done with the front. but, that's only if the rear bar gets rid of the understeer it still has, although the KWs helped.

 

So, I'm hoping the brakes will be here by this week end. Any pointers on the installation? Are the rears beastly? Is there a difference or preference for DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids? Looks like some recommend flushing out all of the old fluid when changing rotors. Really?

 

Fake Jag, as for pointers, the big thing is for the rears that you have to get a special tool (can rent it through your local parts store or you can spend $10 on a little metal block that goes on a socket wrench) because the rear calipers need you to turn the piston a certain direction as you are pushing in on the piston. IT is much easier if you open the bleed port when you do this. Do not quote me on this, but the drivers side needs to be turned clockwise and the passenger side needs to be turned counter clockwise. Turn the piston and watch the piston. If you see it moving out, then you have to go the other way. Once you open the bleed port, bleeding the brakes will be required. But, bleeding the brakes is quick and easy and I do it by myself using a 4 foot piece of tygon tubing slid over the bleed port and then taped into a U with the high point being at the top of the wheel well.

As for the different DOT fluids, for the most part, the difference between DOT 3 and 4 is that one is synthetic, the other is not as I recall. Keep in mind that all brake fluids are hydroscopic (ie, like to absorb water) and even though it is in an enclosed system, some water and whatnot makes it through the seals and rubber parts of the brake system. So, changing out the fluid periodically will only ensure your brake system runs error free for a long time.

if you have more questions, let me know. I have done a few brake jobs in my time. The big thing on our cars is to make sure that the e-brake levers are free moving as some people have lots of problems with the levers corroding up and freezing.

 

Hey, that's not too bad. My Caddy had those twist in pistons, so I know that drill. Our mommyvan has drums built into the rear rotors for the e-brake, which drive me nuts with the fidgety bits.

The e-brake is free on this one and engages long before the and of the handle travel. I'll check for rusty connections while I'm under the car.

BTW, the boxes from Brakemotive arrived today. Very quick. I just moved here to the Cincy area last year so I'm still used to being in Maine where everything takes forever to get to you. I'm liking the midwest, where houses and Jaguars are cheap, where manufacturing still goes on, and where everything is warehoused for distribution to the four corners of the continent.

 

Of the modifications that I have done to my vehicle, my favorite has been replacing my original grill with the Super Charged/Mesh grill. The '03 grill was, in my opinion, very plain. I do not consider routine maintenance as a modification. I also, not really a "modification", replaced my boot's button (the '03 has a button to release the boot) with a new one. They become dark and kind of gummy. I also (**** Yes) have cleaned my exhaust system, because depending on how you look at the vehicle and how it is parked, you can see the system and I think it looks hot all cleaned up. My personal - personal philosophy - that works for me - is to save my $ for mechanical work. I love the way the car drives and feels on the road and I really like the way that my rear of the car sits up a bit higher than the front. Thanks for this post! A lot of good information to think about.

 

What was your source for the grille? Doesn't look like any on the Mina site.

 

It is from Welsh Enterprises out of Ohio. Great site! Thanks and good luck.

 

Where would one find a jag badge to replace the leaper with? I park outside and have this gut feeling somebody might run off with my kitty cat.

 

Does that 2008 style Mina grill replacement have a metal or plastic frame? I put a mesh kit on my car a couple of years ago but now the plastic frame mounts are breaking and I would really like to get one made of metal, and preferably chromed. Any advise?