same here
i also did the lower lateral arm also now its dead straight thanks thermo















sorry for all the pics

 

I just ordered these upper adjustable arms and the lowers as well! I can't wait to get them on! I bought the car 2 months ago with "new" tires on it and after only a few thousand miles I'm getting strong inner tire wear on the rear but it's really choppy. Like, one tread lug is lower than the next and the next one might be even higher. I get a terrible amount of tire noise and a wobbling drone noise. The car isn't wobbling but the sound does. I'm pretty sure that its coming from the choppy tire wear... What do you guys think?
I took vacation time next week so I could work on the x (perks of being bossman ). I've got brakemotive slotted and drilled rotors and ceramic pads to install as well and I figured while I have everything apart I'm going to be resurfacing a lot of components as they have been eaten alive by these Michigan winter roads. I plan to take lots of pictures and build a thread on the installs and resurfacing after, where or how should I build the thread? Right on the main x-type page? Thanks in advance folks!

 

which lower arms did you get? factory or aftermarket?

 

Yo thermo...u seem to be on here constantly...ask some jaguar people to design this adjustable control arm we all so desperately need and would pay a fortune for it

 

Factory because, as far as I know, there aren't any aftermarket/adjustable arms fir the x.

 

Aaron, why have them design it. It already is designed. No need to modify what is already created. If you wanted to make it "Jaguar specific", you simply take the Volvo piece, shorten the arm by 1/4" (shaving the 1/4" off of the adjustable end at the very end), the adjuster nut by 1/4" and then you shorten the threaded end of the Heim joint by 1/4". But, I figured it was much easier just to keep it as it was as we seem to need a little bit of extra length which is what it has.

 

I just see you possibly being able to make $ off of this awful problem you solved if you could market that miracle cure

 

No that would be fixing the Trans to where They can be "fixed for life" HAHA.

 

That's why I asked, because if you had found some adjustable lowers you'd be my new best friend.

 

Man I want to design my own! I'd love to be the one to get that dialed but I need to get my *** into a bigger garage. For now, I'll use the factory arms to at least get close to within spec. Especially considering I'm lowering the in a few weeks!

 

Thermo:
Have you had a chance to get the alignment checked yet?
Found a set on e-bay for 85.00 delivered so I can't wait to get these on my girl...
Cheers
Gary

 

Kota, no, I have not gotten my car aligned yet. But, do not let that hold you back. I have been watching the tread wear and it is even across the tire. So, if the alignment is out, it is not out by much. Install the new arms and do not look back.

 

Thermo,
I have obtained a pair of adjustable control arms and I wish to prepare them for installation.

What is the linear distance from center-to-center of bolt holes in the original Jaguar upper control arm?

Thank you.

 

Ronnie, I do not know the exact distance off the top of my head. But, if you got the Volvo arms, you can simply screw it all the way together and that will be the distance needed. Then you can double check once you get the old arm out. You will need to add about 1/8" to the length of the old arm to get the tire back up straight in most cases.

 

My oldest & I installed the new arms today
We took measurements from the top of the rim to a static point...
We used a straight edge from the bottom of the rim to the fender directly above, then marked the distance on a small steel measuring ruler.
We were just ensuring that we got the appropriate amount positive camber (started out at -2.3)
We used the old arm& bolts which are long enough to hang the new arm on as well...
we spun the new arm out 2 full rotations which gave us a length which was about 1/4 of a hole longer.
Turns out that this was perfect, we re-measured & confirmed the wheel had been pushed more upright, but not into positive camber...
Took it for a spin to seat everything, re-checked & walked away grinning like Cheshire Cats... too easy...
We didn't need to cut down the original length of threads like Thermo did which saved us time
New Tires, Front Struts, Lowering Springs & now camber arms.... she's really coming along nicely
Thanks again Thermo for showing the way
Cheers
Gary

 

This is an article that should definitely appear in the new Jag Mag, if it get's off the ground. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...modern-jag-mag

 

When you are removing the old arms, do you need to support the hub? The bolts seem very difficult to turn. If it does need to be supported, should it be supported at the spring or the hub itself? I don't know if my bolts are just stuck from age or are being stressed.
Thanks for any help.
Mike

 

RZMike, the hub doesn't need a lot of support. I would provide enough support to just keep it from flopping into your lap and stressing the CV joint. Otherwise, for the most part, with the wheel in the air, there should be very little load on that arm. It would not surprise me to be having some trouble getting the bolts out due to the age of our cars. I would recommend tightening the bolt slightly from where it is now (ie, backed of slightly) and then using a wire brush to clean up the threads some so you are not trying to push the rust particles through the nut too. That should help you out. A drop or two of oil may be helpful too on the threads just before they go into the nut.

 

Thanks Chris, i was just concerned that the bolts were so tight if I took one out, things would collapse! The bolt on the inner end I couldn't get loose at all. I have to get a better way of supporting the car, as I am going to have to get under to brake it loose. I didn't have enough room above the brakes to move the wrench far, and my impact gun won't fit into the space.
Mike

 

Lol....this just cracks me up !!! I remember chatting about the fact that lowering a car requires more than a simple strut and spring change and the concencus from everyone was ...sure, just slap on some lowering springs and struts and you are done....hahahaha . Now this whole thread comes along about how someone is slapping on some part made for another vehicle and everyone is so happy to hear about that. I can't wait to see what happens as a result from this thread....this ridiculous work around perhaps has a way simpler solution. Now, I'm not an engineer, but it seems to me that if you go and change the telemetry of the suspension to make it more like the 'Sport' version, by installing lowering springs/struts then why not order a freaking control arm, and all other suspension parts specifically made for a 'Sport' XType and put those parts on the non-sport XType. This gives you the suspension components that belong on the car, corrects telemetry, and fixes all other issues caused by dropping the suspension on the non-sport version of the XType..